rear tailgate window problems

[bradpfowlkes]

pics??

if u have pic of how the spring and pawl actually went in... would be great!! i just ordered the parts and will have the same question

 

[Somemedic]

Fellas, my clutch just died last night after putting my tools back in the blazer (was pulling a cucv front bumper/clevis tiedowns/push bar from the local boneyard- $30).

This is the 2nd clutch in about 2yrs. There was no resistance in the felt gutters, its that lame ass cast aluminum clutch. I will have a fabricator friend get the new one and make it out of real metal. Maybe, if materials and time allow, he could make a few for some of you as well. I will ask him and find out.

 

[mistaken1]

Fellas, my clutch just died last night after putting my tools back in the blazer (was pulling a cucv front bumper/clevis tiedowns/push bar from the local boneyard- $30).

This is the 2nd clutch in about 2yrs. There was no resistance in the felt gutters, its that lame ass cast aluminum clutch. I will have a fabricator friend get the new one and make it out of real metal. Maybe, if materials and time allow, he could make a few for some of you as well. I will ask him and find out.

Exactly! Making that entire assembly out of soft breakable metal. I would like to have a little talk with the managers responsible for this decision......

 

[Crash_AF]

Well, sometimes they make these things out of softer metal to save the more expensive parts... kind of like a fuse... I do, however, know that the LMC clutch is garbage and doesn't hold up to abuse nearly as well as the GM part does. If your friend could make one out of aluminum instead of pot metal, that might be a good compromise.

Later,
Joe

 

[Screamer27]

stupid question, but how does the handle come off the back of the tail gate? are there nuts on the inside you should be able to reach?

 

[Mudstone]

mine never had a lock and now is broken

 

[mistaken1]

stupid question, but how does the handle come off the back of the tail gate? are there nuts on the inside you should be able to reach?

Yes, You have to remove the window regulator to access them.

Basically I disassembled the entire tailgate this weekend to replace the broken pot metal handle.

I do not see any reason for any part of the handle crank mechanism to be made of soft metal. If there is something to be protected that I am not aware of why not do it with a shear pin that can be replaced without disassembling the entire tailgate?

Better yet why put a stupid tailgate on an SUV? Oh ya because someone may want to remove the top and let their hair blow in the breeze as well as expose the insides of the truck to rain and petty thieves.......GM went out of business for a reason.

 

[thedeliverator]

Been reading this and other related threads for info on fixing my broken crank. I made the mistake of cranking too hard when the weather was cold; apparently the window was frozen in place.

So, if the LMC replacement parts don't hold up as well as OEM, am I better off scrounging junkyards until I find a decent used one? Or is it possible to put the electric window guts inside a manual tailgate? Would that even be a good idea?

 

[kipman]

I thought the pictures might help, the old piece has a c clip, it looks like on your new regulator, the clip holds the clutch down.

 

[CapKrk]

Also...if you are taking all this crap apart anyway you may want to look at the felt gutters so you don't have to take it apart again later. There is a cheap way to fix these gutters. Take all the old rubber and felt out of the rails with a flat tip screw driver. Autozone sells a little rubberized floor mat with a felt like substance on it. Cut 4 inch wide strips from it and spray the backs with 3M adhesive....spray your rails as well per instructions on the can. Fold the 4" wide pieces together and stuff them in the rails....make sure you have a flat tip or 1/4 chisel to flatten the pieces against the three sides of the rails. Take a razor blade and cut the excess off. Voila! Good as new.

If your rails are starting to rust make sure to paint them first with Por's or Rustolium rust killer. Mine had started to surface rust but were still structurally sound. At 60 bux a rail I saved over $100 and have enough materials left over to take a whack at the window channels.

Jim

 

[Crash_AF]

Also...if you are taking all this crap apart anyway you may want to look at the felt gutters so you don't have to take it apart again later. There is a cheap way to fix these gutters. Take all the old rubber and felt out of the rails with a flat tip screw driver. Autozone sells a little rubberized floor mat with a felt like substance on it. Cut 4 inch wide strips from it and spray the backs with 3M adhesive....spray your rails as well per instructions on the can. Fold the 4" wide pieces together and stuff them in the rails....make sure you have a flat tip or 1/4 chisel to flatten the pieces against the three sides of the rails. Take a razor blade and cut the excess off. Voila! Good as new.

If your rails are starting to rust make sure to paint them first with Por's or Rustolium rust killer. Mine had started to surface rust but were still structurally sound. At 60 bux a rail I saved over $100 and have enough materials left over to take a whack at the window channels.

Jim

Are you referring to the felt in the top channel or in the tailgate window rails or both?

Later,
Joe

 

[CapKrk]

Sorry Bro...that would be the window channels bolted with two bolts into the sides of the inside of the tail gate. Sorry, I should have taken some pictures and posted this at home.

 

[Crash_AF]

NP, just wanted to clarify.

Pics would be great...

Later,
Joe

 

[CapKrk]

Here you go The "felt" is backed by thin rubber. These pics are not too clear but better than nothing I guess.

jim

 

[petmar]

do you know the name of the part on the top of this pic? It didnt come with my handle off ebay. with this top part will it bole right over the winged part in the first post #3 above? thanks

 

[cucvrus]

The picture at the bottom shows a clutch on the window crank. The clutch fits over the winder on the regulator and the locking pawl is spring loaded in the handle and engages the clutch when the window crank is unlocked and disengages the clutch when the window crank is locked. The driver and clutch are vulnerable to breakage if anything in the window mechanism is not operating smoothly. If you must force the window up or down. Something is wrong and needs to be addressed to avoid costly repairs. Most times it is rust and lack of grease in tracks and the absence of window felts in the side tracks. A little cleaning and polishing of parts along with some replacement side guides will assure you have a smooth operational rear glass on your M1009. Even in rough shape you can get these operational with some work and a minimum of out of pocket expenditure. I overhauled several and my terminus M1009 thread shows some tricks and some short cuts to materiel to replace the side tracks and window seals. I hope that helps you. Of course you can spend lots of money on LMC parts and replace the parts. I prefer to substitute when I can and make some improvements that will last a bit longer on a vehicle that is being subjected to abuse at times. The original design is very crude by today's standards and was stricken with troubles from day 1. I just had a rear window replaced last week. it was $220. installed. Brand new Pilkington. Very nice on a rusty old M1009 snow plow truck that does not see the road and has a shop made steel floor with 1/4" x 4" angle iron for rocker panels and floor supports. Runs everyday off road.

 

[tankie88]

Fixed my new regulator..........ground down the weld on the T,ground down the shaft,replaced the T and welded it back on.Ground down the left over shaft.Job jobbed.Now I can engage the outside handle in the clips.

 

[Mainsail]

There's an old Blazer in the wrecking yard near me that has the electric window. I wonder if that would create more problems than it would solve? It would be nice to be able to put the window up and down from the driver's seat.

 

[cucvrus]

I have done it for a customer. But it did not last long. The used power regulator crapped out and the new one was not GM and it lasted about a year. I ended up converting it back to crank. I still have power front door regulators with motors from the same job. The guy ended up crashing the M1009 and never did complete it. Last time I saw it was when I scrapped it at the shredder. It was just an empty hulk and had nothing left of it. He had taken everything and used it in a Suburban. But if you do go that route. Make sure you change the side glass tracks and clean and lube everything well.

 

[petmar]

Thanks!