Rear Tire Camber

[BlueRoadster]

My rear tires toe in majorly. I go through 2 sets of rear tires to one set of fronts (I believe is caused by the rear toe in). Does anyine know why it is so bad? Is it too long a spring? Is there an adjustment? Sorry if this is a stupid question I just can't figure this out on my own apparently.
(I believe you can tell in this photo, if not I will try to find a better example)

Thanks,
Grant

 

[donquijote]

It's made like that from the factory because you'd typically have a lot of weight in the back leveling the tires out. You can remove the spacers to lower the toe in a bit.

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[donquijote]

It's made like that from the factory because you'd typically have a lot of weight in the back leveling the tires out. You can remove the spacers to lower the toe in a bit.

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Camber, not toe in...

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[rcamacho]

Lots of threads on this topic.
Toe and camber are both adjustable.
I’d suggest reading the TM covering adjustment.

Most alignment shops can set toe easily at a reasonable cost. Shim adjustment for camber is another story. Typically $$$ given the labor.

If you’re mechanically inclined camber can be set at home with careful measurement and selective removal/additional shims.


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[Action]

Get a professional alignment check. Get the printout. The TM tells what thickness shim will do in x degrees. Do camber and caster yourself to get in range. Take back to shop for toe set.
There are instructions to use a string, but you can get correct measurement with both rear tires aimed to one side.

 

[Coug]

If you do take it into a shop, the specs should be the same as an early H1.

If you have any mechanical aptitude, then you can save money by removing the rear shims yourself before taking it in for alignment.

 

[dhaumann69166]

I pulled all the shims out on mine and it’s pretty close to straight with a little bit of positive camber still. Made a huge difference in how the tires wear.

 

[Milcommoguy]

Reprinted / search courtesy of CAMO

More bullets and beans will fix it right up or moonshine.

My civilian, highway queen, with a real world, load bearing, tire saving fix...

This might not be what one want to think about...And tires are BIG BUCKS. Old trucks and old parts need a little refresh. May get away on the cheap, but I ran out of bailing wire fixes. Toe and caster are not friendly fixes on the HumV, IMO. AND it seem to be little talk about it. Run it like I bought it ???

One of the better maintenance and or upgrade to do before going after the "bling bling" stuff. All the "hangie down stuff" needs a good looking at before starting. Little room for parts that wiggle and jiggle lol. While they look heavy duty, military tough, they are in consent loading, bumping and a banging... that's HumV and my kidneys.

Hobby talk here, it's a DYI project. The minute you show up at a shop (paint, electrical, mechanical, even a oil change in your green machine it is like "OH HMMWV' must have big bucks. Well yes and mostly NO.

Story time... I changed all... ALL of anything that hangs from the frame. Control arms, springs, shocks, bushings, tie & radius rods, ball joints, etc. including 150 bucks in new bolts, nuts & washers.

When it came time to do the alignment, which was WAY wack in the beginning... I read the book a couple of times. No fancy tools. tape measure, a long and short piece of square tubing, small protractor, level and my trusty creeper, some string off the kids kite.

Working it all out, it's all shims and patience. Jack it up, pull it apart, take some out, put it back together, let it down, drive it around, measure and do it again with patience. The TM details how much and which shims adjust what, but for a first timer, I had to get the feel of it all. After the forth time camber, caster, toes in or out were in tolerance with extra parts "Uh-o" a stack of extra shims!

The reward/s are worth the experience. After all it is a hobby so it should be fun, right? The difference in rolling / coasting / off the line are day and night. Tire wear right down the center, even Steven, if that's a tire thing. Wobble, bobble, shake & shimmy NONE.
I don't see how a shop could or even would touch one on the cheap, so you got a HUMMWV $$$$

This was March 2019. Today's labor and parts... Pull up a chair or pull out a loan. LOL

Mine came with a life time guaranteed too, CAMO

Snap shots in no particular order>

the old stuff to scrap yard



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[Action]

if you start with a computer printout, you only have to mess with shims one time.

 

[rcamacho]

Speaking from experience i’d also suggest checking every suspension component for wear before getting a final professional alignment.

If you’re taking apart the suspension to adjust shims it’s an ideal time to replace worn components


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[BlueRoadster]

WOW! Thanks guys, that is a lot of great information. I guess its time to start getting dirty and dive in.

 

[Milcommoguy]

if you start with a computer printout, you only have to mess with shims one time.

Already knew it was wack, so that printout would +/- be a starting point if the math holds true. Once one get the hang of it ig goes quick. I pulled the shims. placed a thin pry bar between the frame and cup. Wheels on the ground one can work the bar to fine tune and determine shim thickness. Good tires, flat ground. It's interesting to see what a little shim has on the camber / caster angles. Don't forget the front wheels too.

You guys have seen it right here. Hard to steer, tire wear only to find blown out ball joints, tie rod ends, idler, pitman... etc. What do you think one gets for 25K. Dealer prep not included in the winning bid LOL As stated above, one is wasting their time and money if any of the other parts are shot.

Don't need no stinking computer lol.... Pass the band aids, CAMO