rear window crank

[natemccabe]

I guess I never understood how the window crank worked. When I bought my 1009 the crank was slipping but worked. Eventualy the whole kit and kaboodle broke of. I ordered the new crank assembly from LMC, came in chrome but nothing a little sandpaper and a can of flat black rustoleum couldn't fix. I reused the clutch from the old assembly, with what I thought was an ingenius fix in it. Still slipping, order new clutch from LMC (living in Alaska I can tell you having to pay as much for shipping as the part your ordering is disappointing). Turns out that you need the lock in the darn thing to make it work. SO now I have a shinny new crank and clutch and still have to stuff a screwdriver in the hoile to roll my window down.

 

[K9Vic]

Windows cranks is expensive and you have to order all the parts they show at LMC to make it work, there are no short cuts. With LMC I spend allot of time researching what I need before I make my order so I do not miss anything. I think the whole deal for a complete crank is about $130. Expensive and just after I spent all that a complete setup hit eBay for about the same price but a real black one. Oh well at least I have a good one and I can lock it.

I have never had a M1009 with the original rear crank so I do not know if it was keyed. The key lock assembly is designed to act with the clutch and when locked it does not engage the chuck key. So you have to have the key lock in there along with the sprint and key chuck for it to work. If I recall the key lock is like $30 and parts that go with it $15 more, freaking expensive.

 

[hvillem1009]

I am getting ready to order my window crank for rear window. I was on a camping trip when my window crank broke. I could still roll up and down, but going is getting worse. Now that I have replace the window track for rear window I can't get the window to go all the way up because the crank is slipping.

 

[Mainsail]

Mine was wasted when I got my M1009. I got all new parts from LMC and it works great without the lock cylinder installed. I have a lock but I can't figure out how to make it stay in.

Lube up all the tracks and gears inside the lift-gate. That will take some of the stress off the pot metal clutch and keep it from breaking. Treat it gingerly.

 

[edpdx]

My M1009 had been slipping- taking 20 cranks to get the window up or down. Then it broke altogether. I bought the clutch from the parts guy on the BAY and tore into the tailgate. Turns out it was not the clutch. Here is a post from WHYDTYCUCVT/L:

To day I installed a new rear window regulator in my Blazer. The handle finally gave out and would not roll the tailgate window up or down. I thought it was the clutch at first; but it was the tiny crank gear between the two large elevator gears.

While I was in there I cleaned out the mud built up in the bottom of the door, soaked the latches and added new foam donuts to the rods. There was no felt in the channel guides, so I replaced it with some hunter orange felt I had. Also installed new top/cap channel guides and inner and outer sweeps.

OOOPS! Almost forgot... Washed the interior of the endgate and installed fatmat (lowes roof flashing) to quiet the gate down.

This tailgate overhaul was thorough; but not as difficult or hard to understand as I thought it would be. The gate feels and sounds more solid/quiet. The window cranks up and down smoothly and the clutch was just fine; showing only acceptable wear.

If your endgate window is taking a lot to crank up or down I highly recommend this overhaul. Good one day project.

The regulator was about $135 shipped. Comes with new rollers and is easy to install. It is an AC DELCO part 15641780. Shop the web by part number and look for free shipping.

Your window troubles may not be the clutch, mine wasn't. Besides the overhaul with new parts means your existing OEM clutch- hard to find, will last longer not working so hard and wearing so fast.
NOTE. The middle adjustment screw of the latch control is a LEFT thread screw- don't shear this turning it the wrong way.

Get the screw from the wrecking yard- the ones from the electric gates have them as well. The regulator teeth are probably the problem- buy the regulator and reline the channels you'll be good-to-go for another 20.

 

[forest522]

Good advise above. I too have had to entirely rebuild the tailgate window set up. New rubber all around...the original literally fell apart in my hands. That all went in pretty well with plenty of nice new scratches on the paint as I was installing

The regulator has been replaced with a new one from LMC. Haven't installed it yet but I have helped on another '09s install. It isnt that bad if you follow the manual and take your time.

You'll need a second person to hold the glass while the tailgate is down and glass fully extended.

I am still struggling with the lock mechanism though. Anyone have any success getting the key lock assembly to stay in?? It seems to want to come out with the key when you pull the key out!

 

[edpdx]

The window is not a problem if you pull out the sweeps and pull the track screws from the drive's side od the gate. Then wiggle the track bottom to centerline of the gate allowing you to pull the glass free. Now you can really tear the tracks free and reline them. I used strips of felt I had handy. Still works smooth.

I know I had my lock apart and there was some business in the core where a spring or rod or something had to be fussed with to reassemble it; but I can't remember it well enough to tell you how to do it. See if you can locate one in a wrecking yard.

 

[hkbuyer]

I have an '85 M1009 that came without the locking window crank. You mentioned LMC and I was wondering of you could send the full URL and even tailgate crank part number if available. -Dave (P.S. I used to have an office in Dallas near Galleria and while I'm now with the Marines in NC, I sure miss Texas).

 

[blackhueys]

I had a broken crank as well when I bought my truck. I had a second crank that came with it though so I figured I would replace it. As for the lock install good luck I had to take the whole thing down to my local Chevy dealer and some old ancient tech from the back was the only one who new the secret to put it in right Might try your dealer and see if that helps? In the end the new crank broke about 3 months later so I looked up the parts etc for cost but then went to the junkyard where I picked up the up down switch, 2 electric motors, 3 drive cables and two electric lift mechanism assy. Converted to electric like civy trucks are and love it! Cost for everything around 65.00 I think that's a good deal to me at least seeing as I got spare parts to go with it. Been about a year and a half now with no issues so far.

 

[Warthog]

I have an '85 M1009 that came without the locking window crank. You mentioned LMC and I was wondering of you could send the full URL and even tailgate crank part number if available. -Dave (P.S. I used to have an office in Dallas near Galleria and while I'm now with the Marines in NC, I sure miss Texas).

www.lmctruck.com

They have multiple catalogs. Just pick you make, model and year

 

[hkbuyer]

Thanks to to you and Warthog for helpful direction. It seems changing out to another tailgate makes sense in my case and I was wondering what Suburban model years fit on the 1985 M1009.

 

[Warthog]

The physical tailgate won't fit. But the glass, electrical motor and all the mechanical parts will. '71 thru '91 should work.

 

[edpdx]

The lock was confusing to take apart- even moreso to put together. As I recall... there is a roll pin that held the blocky little lock ward in the middle of the cast piece. You have to drive the pin out- note which ends it needs to be returned to. Then pull the little cast section out- took some doing and you should photograph this to ease it back together later. Once that is out then you can replace the handle and lock before reassembling it.