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yes should be correct - maybe they use not the original box, they cut a label off
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Rebuilding after 15 years of storage
- Thread starter PHOENIX-GER
- Start date
yes should be correct - maybe they use not the original box, they cut a label off
vanaisa
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Take US Price put tax, fee, shipping costs on it .... additional next day delivery so it make no sense waiting for import in any way to save some Euro and wait 2-3 weeks for delivery.
Complete parts in the box 450 Euro - no one said Chevy M1008 is in Germany a low budget truck
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cucvrus
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Easy way to test is if the resistance pumping action begins immediately upon depression of the lever. No free play (zero) It will have immediate resistance and the pumping begins. Make sure to change the push rod cover plate gasket at the same time. Grease the push rod and shove it. Assemble all parts as loosely as possible getting all fasteners started before tightening any. Another tip. I remove Generator 2 and do 99.9% from topside. I found it easier and I have changed them out in sub zero weather. Good Luck.
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Thanks for your tip - I'll do it that way.
Before I had the TMs
of the military version, I could only work with the shop manual. The civil version is identical in many areas. With the electrics, it was then useless in many parts. And since there are big differences in electrics between German / European trucks and US trucks, my professional experience doesn't help either 
cucvrus
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CODE RED: That does NOT look like the correct pump. Just saying. It has that slight bend curve in the end of the arm. That style has free play in the stroke. The box had the straight lever. I am just pointing it out from far away. Some looks odd here. Place it in the palm of your hand and compress the lever. It should have immediate resistance and you should be able to suck a finger tip fast to the threaded part of the fitting. Check back I am interested in knowing.
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I have this NOS HMMWV pump laying around. I won't be using it anymore. Judging by the lever, it is the right one. It has been a while, but I believe the tube with the yellow cap is for the HMMWV fording kit. It can be plugged off. If Rick is right, let me know and we'll work something out.
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Thanks Rutjes for the offer. I still hope it's the right pump ...
Globeworks is a trusted dealer. He will take back the article without problems and exchange it if necessary. Maybe it's not the cheapest provider, but that's not my choice either. Especially with the Chevy it was so that I occasionally had to exchange parts. Each time an order was made based on the vin number and yet some dealers are not able to find the right part, not even with the reference to Armytruck. There are aftermarket products that are significantly cheaper to import, but they cannot be returned ...
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…… .I don't want to be the smart guy, but…………not according to VIN and not army truck……"84 Chevrolet K30, 379cui Diesel"
parts are ordered for this!
For some parts of the engine you still need the designation J Code.
I've been buying in the states for years, at rockauto, EBay.com, Amazon.com and so on ……… .if I ordered the right parts, I got the right parts.
For example rockauto, once a servo pump arrived defective ……… 5 minutes filled out a form online ……. what should I say, press enter, "Thank you for your message, we will send you a new item, shipping costs and customs have already been paid"……. do you have more questions ? The pump was already installed and test run, ……… .in Germany the dealer would first have asked you whether a specialist workshop had installed the pump. I have never experienced more service thought than in the States!
By the way, I didn't have to send the defective pump back.
……… the parts that are sold at various parts dealers here in Germany are, for example, the cheapest at rockauto and are sold here at the maximum price …… .and that you do not recognize this immediately, you get the new part in a neutral plastic bag and not in the original packaging………. …… ..I have also bought little things here that I needed immediately, so I know that, I've been observing the market for years.
…… ..I would accept Rutjes' offer, as far as I have found out that the right pump is no longer on sale.
parts are ordered for this!
For some parts of the engine you still need the designation J Code.
I've been buying in the states for years, at rockauto, EBay.com, Amazon.com and so on ……… .if I ordered the right parts, I got the right parts.
For example rockauto, once a servo pump arrived defective ……… 5 minutes filled out a form online ……. what should I say, press enter, "Thank you for your message, we will send you a new item, shipping costs and customs have already been paid"……. do you have more questions ? The pump was already installed and test run, ……… .in Germany the dealer would first have asked you whether a specialist workshop had installed the pump. I have never experienced more service thought than in the States!
By the way, I didn't have to send the defective pump back.
……… the parts that are sold at various parts dealers here in Germany are, for example, the cheapest at rockauto and are sold here at the maximum price …… .and that you do not recognize this immediately, you get the new part in a neutral plastic bag and not in the original packaging………. …… ..I have also bought little things here that I needed immediately, so I know that, I've been observing the market for years.
…… ..I would accept Rutjes' offer, as far as I have found out that the right pump is no longer on sale.
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You are right I know about that J Code and the difficulties in order parts of it by german dealers.
To buy parts on Amazon.com also never problems, but Ebay ....
First of all, when I press the lever, I also create a vacuum with this pump. This was a must be fact if I understood CUCVRUS correctly. But the lever looks different. On the original, I can tell from the signs of wear that only the tip is worn. So the kink in the lever shouldn't have any effect? Nevertheless the picture in the online shop is the right one, but what i got is different. I will contact the dealer immedeatly
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The dealer's answer: He buys pumps from different manufacturers, which can vary in appearance. Ultimately, the pumping process begins immediately after the test described by CUCVRUS. That it is no longer an original part was actually already clear to me when I looked for it.
Nevertheless, I would like the seller to confirm that this part is identical to the original and the different appearance of the lever is irrelevant.
If not, an exchange or return is required.
I again invest a lot of time and work in the truck and don't want to damage myself from wrong parts
Today I dedicated myself to the valves of the left cylinder head. There is a lot of debris and almost all of the valve stem seals were hardened, porous, or cracked. I will take the cylinder heads to a final cleaning in our engine department to remove all residues. And of course the valve seats are re-ground.
Deposits and defect Valve stem Seals are not uncommon.
However, I did not expect it now as the engine overhaul is not so long ago.
Nevertheless, I would like the seller to confirm that this part is identical to the original and the different appearance of the lever is irrelevant.
If not, an exchange or return is required.
I again invest a lot of time and work in the truck and don't want to damage myself from wrong parts
Today I dedicated myself to the valves of the left cylinder head. There is a lot of debris and almost all of the valve stem seals were hardened, porous, or cracked. I will take the cylinder heads to a final cleaning in our engine department to remove all residues. And of course the valve seats are re-ground.
Deposits and defect Valve stem Seals are not uncommon.
However, I did not expect it now as the engine overhaul is not so long ago.
cucvrus
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Good Luck. I am going to be talking with the local GM dealer and see if he can get me an origial Delphi pump. You have a relic from the past with that original AC fuel pump. I am still weary of that left pump doing the job you intend it to do. I have been down this road several times and have 2 of them pumps brand new that the suppliers did not want back. CUCVRUS Repair Projects | Page 4 | SteelSoldiers
I know I am beating this to death but it has caused me a lot of time and money in the past.
CUCVRUS Repair Projects | Page 8 | SteelSoldiers
Never again. I have learned the hard way. I was getting towed around Rausch Creek for the entire day because of the incorrect fuel pump not being able to supply fuel. I can't explain it any further. I checked and rechecked. I changed injection pumps and everything. I back tracked and removed the new fuel pump and BINGO the problem went away after taking a used OEM AC from another engine I had in my barn. I went back and replaced the pump with an exact new OEM Delphi duplicate and have been spreading the gospel ever since. Caution. If it appears different and is designed different it is not wrong every time. In this case it is NOT the correct part. Good Luck.
I know I am beating this to death but it has caused me a lot of time and money in the past.
CUCVRUS Repair Projects | Page 8 | SteelSoldiers
Never again. I have learned the hard way. I was getting towed around Rausch Creek for the entire day because of the incorrect fuel pump not being able to supply fuel. I can't explain it any further. I checked and rechecked. I changed injection pumps and everything. I back tracked and removed the new fuel pump and BINGO the problem went away after taking a used OEM AC from another engine I had in my barn. I went back and replaced the pump with an exact new OEM Delphi duplicate and have been spreading the gospel ever since. Caution. If it appears different and is designed different it is not wrong every time. In this case it is NOT the correct part. Good Luck.
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In fact, the part was never off. The dealer takes them back already have the shipping label. Nevertheless, I still need a spare part. I'll delve into your post later.
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I gutted and cleaned both cylinder heads yesterday. No cracks were visible until then, but tomorrow I will let both heads run through our machine cleaning, not only to remove the last remnants of deposits in inaccessible places, but also to check again for hidden cracks. We use a special procedure to check this, but something that comes from mechanical engineering and not from engine manufacturing. But if there are no abnormalities here I am already on the safe side, otherwise I would have to go to a special workshop there to check for cracks around 70 euros - 140 euros each head. A new head is available. Some used also. So it don`t need to be the end.
It just doesn't leave me in peace why the valve stem seals harden after such a short time and are defective on all valves. It suggests that something is wrong here. Simply put the head back on without intensive control should be an own goal.
Since a used head does not have to be better than my old one, I tend to have a new head/s here, even if it is significantly more expensive. I'm preparing the car for myself and not for a quick sale. Well structured, it is an investment.
I have already invested more than 2000 euros for the re-registration, although this also includes a large proportion of the tires and batteries. Ultimately, these are normal wear parts. But all other "little things" add up. The TH400 also needs some attention even if it switches cleanly. So far I haven't been able to test it properly. I suspect it does not shift
to 3rd gear and that means that it has suffered a bit from the downtime here as well. The overhaul of the transmission was some time before the shutdown of 15 years.
There are some people around me who say I'm crazy about investing in this car ... but that's my way of spending my money.
I know that the truck is running reliably, but it also needs perfectly maintained technology.
I think I've already withdrawn a lot. My old Volvo 945s (88,92,9
all had to go because they were once my main vehicles and the supply of spare parts was no longer guaranteed. They have been replaced by the Volvo XC70 and C30 - but both with so much electronics that they are serviced in the Volvo workshop and no longer by myself. I would have to upgrade my entire workshop with computer-assisted diagnostic tools.
That is no longer in proportion to the benefit for me. I prefer to stand up for the Chevy
It just doesn't leave me in peace why the valve stem seals harden after such a short time and are defective on all valves. It suggests that something is wrong here. Simply put the head back on without intensive control should be an own goal.
Since a used head does not have to be better than my old one, I tend to have a new head/s here, even if it is significantly more expensive. I'm preparing the car for myself and not for a quick sale. Well structured, it is an investment.
I have already invested more than 2000 euros for the re-registration, although this also includes a large proportion of the tires and batteries. Ultimately, these are normal wear parts. But all other "little things" add up. The TH400 also needs some attention even if it switches cleanly. So far I haven't been able to test it properly. I suspect it does not shift
to 3rd gear and that means that it has suffered a bit from the downtime here as well. The overhaul of the transmission was some time before the shutdown of 15 years.There are some people around me who say I'm crazy about investing in this car ... but that's my way of spending my money.
I know that the truck is running reliably, but it also needs perfectly maintained technology.
I think I've already withdrawn a lot. My old Volvo 945s (88,92,9
all had to go because they were once my main vehicles and the supply of spare parts was no longer guaranteed. They have been replaced by the Volvo XC70 and C30 - but both with so much electronics that they are serviced in the Volvo workshop and no longer by myself. I would have to upgrade my entire workshop with computer-assisted diagnostic tools.That is no longer in proportion to the benefit for me. I prefer to stand up for the Chevy
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Both coming out of cleaning in the eary morning with a worse result
So the next step is taking of the complete engine again.
We now have practice in it.
The engine was tested in 2015 with the cylinder heads removed but not completely dismantled. We have documented the results. Everything was ok - all seals were replaced including valve stem seals and timing chain with gear. But then the engine was not tested and stopped again for 4 years because I didn't have time to continue working.
I won't invest in new cylinder heads without checking the block. To do this, he goes to a specialist workshop.
Another option would be to buy an overhauled engine. But as I have seen, the price range is very large and the quality is difficult to check. And I don't know how to differentiate which type of engine I get. They are all offered as 6.2l V8s
I have just requested offers for the overhaul of our engine from various specialist workshops in Germany.
I still remember a defective cylinder head gasket in January 1998 that I changed under a tent at -25 degrees. It was exactly the side and at the point where the hairline crack can now be seen ... The possible hidden damage since 1998 may have been adding up. The engine ran without problems until 2005. They are robust and tough, but not indestructible
Of course I can also buy a used engine, but no one can say for sure what condition it is in.
After all, our block can be completely ok and then it just needs new heads. Nevertheless, I will have to calculate with 4000-6000 Euros here. But then with a guarantee and ready for installation. And last but not least, this also increases the value of the vehicle.
So the next step is taking of the complete engine again.
We now have practice in it.
The engine was tested in 2015 with the cylinder heads removed but not completely dismantled. We have documented the results. Everything was ok - all seals were replaced including valve stem seals and timing chain with gear. But then the engine was not tested and stopped again for 4 years because I didn't have time to continue working.
I won't invest in new cylinder heads without checking the block. To do this, he goes to a specialist workshop.
Another option would be to buy an overhauled engine. But as I have seen, the price range is very large and the quality is difficult to check. And I don't know how to differentiate which type of engine I get. They are all offered as 6.2l V8s
I have just requested offers for the overhaul of our engine from various specialist workshops in Germany.
I still remember a defective cylinder head gasket in January 1998 that I changed under a tent at -25 degrees. It was exactly the side and at the point where the hairline crack can now be seen ... The possible hidden damage since 1998 may have been adding up. The engine ran without problems until 2005. They are robust and tough, but not indestructible
Of course I can also buy a used engine, but no one can say for sure what condition it is in.
After all, our block can be completely ok and then it just needs new heads. Nevertheless, I will have to calculate with 4000-6000 Euros here. But then with a guarantee and ready for installation. And last but not least, this also increases the value of the vehicle.
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Worn valve guides in heads allow exhaust to come back up between the valve and guide and prematurely "cook" the valve seals and make them brittle.
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The engine specialist in my neighborhood unfortunately has no capacity for new orders for the next 3-4 months. He offered me to do a damage assessment
in the next four weeks, however, an overhaul by his workshop can only take place in 3-4 months. With this type of engine he does not expect any major damage, so that the overhaul can be done by ourselves. This is of course a calming answer. So everything back to the beginning and let's go
I prefer this workshop because it is only 10 km away and also has experience with US engines.
I hope the engineer's assumption is confirmed and the damage assessment shows no serious damage
Usually those who are said to be dead live the longest
in the next four weeks, however, an overhaul by his workshop can only take place in 3-4 months. With this type of engine he does not expect any major damage, so that the overhaul can be done by ourselves. This is of course a calming answer. So everything back to the beginning and let's go
I prefer this workshop because it is only 10 km away and also has experience with US engines.
I hope the engineer's assumption is confirmed and the damage assessment shows no serious damage
Usually those who are said to be dead live the longest
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Was there anything you could find out from the GM dealer? There seems to be another one here, but I don't know if it's the right one.
By the way, vanaissa, with shipping costs same like german price but here also addional customer fee pay by delivery. The costs are initially negligible as long as a part is still available....
However, if I keep track of how many wrong Pumps have been sent to you CUCVRUS, I hardly dare to order ... within Germany I "only" have 8 euros shipping but from the USA 18-25 euros depending on the shipping company + customs fee. That is why the terms and conditions often do not say anything about exchanges or redemptions
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If Rock Auto shows the correct pictures, only the Airtex 41618 and Delphi HFP906 are the correct ones judging by the lever. Then again, Globeworks also showed the right picture on their site. I'm guessing they order from RA and similar stores as well and never noticed the difference when upping their stock.
What is the milage on the motor? If it's low, I'd just check it for cracks. Especially around the main webs and on top around the back 2 cylinders, these tend to run hotter. If it's all good, put "new" heads on it. Replace the harmonic balancer as well. Failing harmonic balancers are known to break cranks and to cause cracks in the main webs. Always use new bolts when (re-)installing heads. Bolts are torque to yield, one time use only.
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Regarding the fuel pump: that's exactly what I'm afraid of. So here again to get the wrong pump although the picture is the right one.
Milage - if i remeber right around 240000 Miles / 380000 km - remember long stock but in the years of service as main Truck comes a lot on it. (to reach work every day 100 km about 7 years) I can say exactly by the next visite in our workshop. i know it have just XXXXX counter....
CUCV - in Germany usually the M1008 - still in come up as Phoenix after more than 15 years of storage....
Hi, we are located in Westgermany near Münster and owned since 1997 an Ex-Army M1008. He got 2000 new color as Show-Truck for our small metalworkcompany. Than after we closed it in 2005 he still wait in storage the rebirth in 2020. Before we bought the M1008 had we restorated an M38A1 in...
www.steelsoldiers.com
"Always use new bolts when (re-)installing heads. Bolts are torque to yield, one time use only" thanks for remind, i know it - To save on it would be nonsense if I spend 1200 euros on two new heads without the small parts that are then also replaced. I stayed with the engine specialist that I remove the motor and then we do a test in my workshop to see how far dismantling is actually required. The specialist is very confident because it is not a sophisticated sports engine, but solid "old" technology that can take something - the "damage" we documented also does not indicate any further damage in the block.
I hope he does not find any evidence of major damage, so that we then continue to check the engine based on his recommendation and replace what is necessary and then I reassemble it myself. Actually, this time I didn't want to do all the work myself and spend the money instead, but 3-4 months waiting + overhault time is too long for me.
The next technical investigation for road traffic in Germany is July 2022. Until then it has to be running again
This would be the third time that I remove and overhaul a V8.
2004 GMC Van 5,7l engine, 2014/15 first time V8 6,2l
I can clearly say that the truck is easier to expand
5,7l GMC G20
no place to act.... inside the car and so easy on M1008 2014
