Rebuilding after 15 years of storage

[PHOENIX-GER]

Hi,

beside the glowplug and controller problem is there another thing after overhaul the engine.
It have in cold engine temperature a very loud "combustion noise" in germany we call this typical "Diesel-Nageln" . i don't know the right term in english, lit is louder as usually. I know that engine is loud but not so much.
My own research for the failure brings me up to the injectorpump as all others of the fuelsystem is coming up new with replacement parts. Of course the pump was dismounted by overhaul and mounted like shown in the GMC shop manual on the markings. But i found information that there are more adjustments possible / necessary. Is there anything what i can measure myself?

By checking out the glowplugs and dismounting also the new injectors found i am themselves with a lot of soot on it. I hope i describe the situation right.



I can say we have same sound like PeterKurz describe in his posting https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/adjust-pump-timing-6-2d.201251/
So i guess that the adjustment need to do. Is this the only way for adjustment checking he had shown?
By running temperature is all fine, no hardly sound but also not full power.

The start of engine was almost difficult of the glowplug / controller situation - this parts coming up now for second try by measure all circuits around this system.

The electrical System is in original condition - nothing changed beside relais which changed by broken and replaced on original parts.
I hope they sold me the right injectors by Engine Classification and VIN Number. This is not almost a garantue for right parts....

Fortunately there are still new injector pumps available and of course also overhauled conditions. I think that pump needed first an adjustment before we talk about replacementpart or overhauling them. Also for the Stanadyne is here in Germany the possibility of overhaul if necessary but this make an adjustment not uneccessary.
Beside doing it myself there is a US-Car Shop around 50 km away from me for a service on that issue...

Did anyone have an advice for me because out of optimize the situation will i not drive to that shop?
I would take a trailer-service.

 

[LT67]

The 6.2 diesel is supposed to sound like a metal garbage can with rocks in it lol. If it does not, something is wrong with the fuel system or the engine is losing compression.

 

[PHOENIX-GER]

The 6.2 diesel is supposed to sound like a metal garbage can with rocks in it lol. If it does not, something is wrong with the fuel system or the engine is losing compression.

Engine is overhauled, so compression is good. And as all is changed on the Fuelsystem out of the injector pump... The US-Car-Shop what i phoned for the injector Pump controll and adjustment told me: usually there is no other adjustment necessary as the markings during fitting. Maybe the long storage gone not out of any failure over this pump. - ok if it is really that reason than we need to change, but the advice is - after solve the glow problem - to run the truck a while and see how it works. Really something what is always like Gambling... if the truck come down far away is almost a truck tow-tractor necessary and we have to disconnect the driveshaft to protect the automatic transmission. We have expierence in that

 

[PHOENIX-GER]

So all done with parts we have here, now waiting for the postman...... bringing us the glow plugs to go on
Thats the reason why the Chevy will be almost now only the 3rd car on service for us. We need cars which be always ready to go and not waiting for replacement parts... Unfortunately the most ist not available in the next carshop for the M1008.



by the way - look inside a tank of 1986 after 15 year in storage - Tank was filled up as go in storage...





the particles you see was sticky, a bit like rubber, in germany is diesel colored to be distingished from Heating oil what is cheaper but not allow to use for cars.
We do not find any rust inside, but a lot of dirt.
We descided not to clean up and install instead a new tank. It was bought in germany as original replacement part. We descide not to by any aftermarket product from USA because we feared that it not would fit correct.











the new one

 

[cucvrus]

So all done with parts we have here, now waiting for the postman...... bringing us the glow plugs to go on
Thats the reason why the Chevy will be almost now only the 3rd car on service for us. We need cars which be always ready to go and not waiting for replacement parts... Unfortunately the most ist not available in the next carshop for the M1008.

View attachment 834830

by the way - look inside a tank of 1986 after 15 year in storage - Tank was filled up as go in storage...

View attachment 834831

View attachment 834832

the particles you see was sticky, a bit like rubber, in germany is diesel colored to be distingished from Heating oil what is cheaper but not allow to use for cars.
We do not find any rust inside, but a lot of dirt.
We descided not to clean up and install instead a new tank. It was bought in germany as original replacement part. We descide not to by any aftermarket product from USA because we feared that it not would fit correct.

View attachment 834833

View attachment 834839

View attachment 834835

View attachment 834840

View attachment 834836

the new one

Very Nice work. Looks good.

 

[PHOENIX-GER]

All build up again around the glowplug system - it was not on the glowplugcontroller and not on any relais or the solenoid.
It was on the electrical wiring failure. After figure out this and change the defect wiring no more problems at all in that case.
It work very good - engine runs smooth and with normal noise. No more "smoke-machine" on the exhaust ....... so I guess the injector pump work also in right parameters.
It seems that the glowplug controller has a lot of influence on the engine running.

There ist another failure on the generators as both will not load the battery. We guess it is also an electrical wiring failure.
So next diagnosis bring us up there.

 

[PHOENIX-GER]

As expected an elecrical wire failure. Both generators done their job again.
At least next come up voltmeter don't work. Today we will have a look on it.
If the streak of luck continues then it's just again a cable or relay and not the voltmeter itself. It is probably no longer available as a replacement part.

I become more and more familiar with the electrical system on our M1008. My son, a car and truck mechanmics supported me.
Father oldschool technic and son modern electronic car and truck expert seems to be a good team with respect in each others knowledge. For both of us not always so easy like it sounds by writing this.

 

[cucvrus]

I have used a few of these and a few VDO 24 volt voltmeters. You need one that is not self grounding. You can use the stock pigtail from the back of the stock voltmeter and have a direct fit and the hole is 2 1/16" just like stock. Good Luck.

 

[PHOENIX-GER]

I have used a few of these and a few VDO 24 volt voltmeters. You need one that is not self grounding. You can use the stock pigtail from the back of the stock voltmeter and have a direct fit and the hole is 2 1/16" just like stock. Good Luck.

Couldn't have a look on the truck these days. We had yesterday a storm with much rain and friends of us need our help.

Thanks cucrus for your helpful info, vdo is easy to got in germany and it is good to know that it is changeable.

 

[PHOENIX-GER]

So after testing we must say the voltmeter is dead.
So the clock become a famely member beside => VDO Voltmeter

 

[cucvrus]

That looks good. I put a VDO tachometer in my M1009 at the same spot. I also split the cluster cover and added gauges to the lower radio cover. I done that on a few of these before most people wanted just plain stock vehicles. That M1009 I drove till it had 135K on it and sold it.

 

[PHOENIX-GER]

That looks good. I put a VDO tachometer in my M1009 at the same spot. I also split the cluster cover and added gauges to the View attachment 836183lower radio cover. I done that on a few of these before most people wanted just plain stock vehicles. That M1009 I drove till it had 135K on it and sold it.

this clock comes from my first car a Ford Capri II in the early 80. Thought 1997 after this clock went through some cars that it fit perfect in the M1008.

 

[PHOENIX-GER]

Want to give you all an update:
I couldn't done a lot last weeks after I had broken my right hand - so I need much more time as I want to come up with work.
Lastly some of the electrical wiring was defect during the generator circle.
I take new connections and now i should work right - but at least the Test-Run about more than 15 miles will not be done until yet (around 15 miles was the point where engine died of no power of electrical system)
There is also a broken oil-line which need to change. It was a replacement part after engine overhaul and fitted not 100% perfect. It seems it scrub on the chassis and become a week point. So i take a new one - after original is no longer available, it is also again an after-market-product but this time i take more care in the installation

 

[cucvrus]

If you are talking oil cooler lines they are still available as after market. And yes they can be routed incorrectly and rub on the brake booster reinforcement. I have seen more then 1 engine ruined from oil cooler lines rubbed thru. Many times the bracket at the rear of the manifold is eliminate and the lines are misrouted. But after market oil cooler lines are available.
CHEVROLET 6.2L/379 Oil Cooler Lines Parts & Accessories | Summit Racing
I copied this link as an example of the various lines available. Take your time and route them properly. Another option is to get air/oil hose and make your own. If you were to remove the crimps on the hose ends of the cooler lines you will find barbed ends under the hose and the ends will except need hose and clamps. Do your homework on the right hose. That line is NOT high pressure and I always check the lines for leakage by wrapping a white paper towel around them and see if it gets any discolor. I trust my work but still double check. Use aviation hose clamps if you have doubt. But it works I done it several times to my own stuff. No need to break the bank here. Good Luck and report back. Have a Great Weekend.

 

[Valor]

That looks good. I put a VDO tachometer in my M1009 at the same spot. I also split the cluster cover and added gauges to the View attachment 836183lower radio cover. I done that on a few of these before most people wanted just plain stock vehicles. That M1009 I drove till it had 135K on it and sold it.

Was wondering how you drove that tach? Was it off one of the alternators?

 

[cucvrus]

Was wondering how you drove that tach? Was it off one of the alternators?

Yes it was signaled by the tach pickup on the Generator 1 drivers side.

 

[PHOENIX-GER]

If you are talking oil cooler lines they are still available as after market. And yes they can be routed incorrectly and rub on the brake booster reinforcement. I have seen more then 1 engine ruined from oil cooler lines rubbed thru. Many times the bracket at the rear of the manifold is eliminate and the lines are misrouted. But after market oil cooler lines are available.
CHEVROLET 6.2L/379 Oil Cooler Lines Parts & Accessories | Summit Racing
I copied this link as an example of the various lines available. Take your time and route them properly. Another option is to get air/oil hose and make your own. If you were to remove the crimps on the hose ends of the cooler lines you will find barbed ends under the hose and the ends will except need hose and clamps. Do your homework on the right hose. That line is NOT high pressure and I always check the lines for leakage by wrapping a white paper towel around them and see if it gets any discolor. I trust my work but still double check. Use aviation hose clamps if you have doubt. But it works I done it several times to my own stuff. No need to break the bank here. Good Luck and report back. Have a Great Weekend.

i know about the work of own in this lines (as i am metalworker and machinist) but i have no tools for it. We doesn`t had a great various on after market parts here in germany. I prefer to buy in germany as it is for privat people much easier and at least faster if the parts are on stock. I put them in like the original was before - if i had miss a part than it was missing since we own this truck.... I doesn`t seen such a failure before. We notice it on the minimal oil which we found under the truck. We start searching the reason and found at least this on the oil line.



ist was just weak enough to pressure oil besides but not so big that you can see it with own eyes.
Nevertheless i am really wondering how this could be happened and so I took more care of routing like before and check it later again
During the work around i found also behind the air inlet grille a rust flower which becomes after touching a nice big hole, fortunately its coverd of the air lnlet grille and will be welded before new painting.
I am sure i find some other points in the same way....


it is on the left side - right side ist pretty good

15 Years storage in a dry and good ventilated garage is not a garanty for less failure on time....

I must confess i didn`t expected so much failure on the electrical system. Okay the rust - as not done a conservation for storage - is normal.
For me as - metalworker - is rust no problem in any way. But the electrical system - so much different to german systems - was a challenge for me and my son. He is car and truck mechanics, but also for him was the different in us-electric to european electric on car and trucks a challenge. I must say thanks to all of you here which answered our questians and posting discussions of problems from which we take much profit in our own work.

Thanks a lot also to cucvurs to share his knowledge with us all

 

[cucvrus]

What part of the truck did you take the rusty picture? Is that under the hood near the hinges?

 

[PHOENIX-GER]

What part of the truck did you take the rusty picture? Is that under the hood near the hinges?

A better perspective picture



it need to remove the fender for welding - will be done just before painting
This area is covered with the "air intake grille?"
Difficult work but i am able to do this
It would be nice to have a repair-shield for it but usually is that not an area where you can buy complete repair-kits. So you have to do it by yourself.

 

[cucvrus]

Easy fix. Unfortunately you will need to take the fender, hood and cowl screen off to get to it properly. If it were me I would just take the entire front end off and start there. I can guarantee there is more places that need fixed. Good Luck. Start a thread and show the progress on your repairs. It always helps others. Take Care. Thank you for sharing.