Rebuilding after 15 years of storage

[PHOENIX-GER]

Complete the Blower



and continue with the Core, decide than also if he shows no leaks



to use a new one
37 years old it should be not a bad idea to exchange
Will be here with our next order

 

[87cr250r]

I've had a new aluminum core erode through at the tank within a few months of installing. At least it takes less than half an hour to change them.

 

[PHOENIX-GER]

I've had a new aluminum core erode through at the tank within a few months of installing. At least it takes less than half an hour to change them.

Where did you buy your core? I am just checking for the best exchange solution.
I have clean the core and got a lot of dirt out of it. I don't want wait until i have water in the cab.
I had in the past in my Volvo 945 a leaky core. It takes a while until this can be noticed with all bad consequences of that damage.
Hopefully i can find an OEM Quality sparepart.

 

[87cr250r]

I got mine at the local parts house. Murray is just about the only stock replacement option for cores and radiators for these trucks nowadays. Cavitation caused the failure, it eroded away right where water from the inlet hits the side of the tank. My new aluminium replacement hasn't failed yet but if it happens again I'll probably add an orifice to slow the flow down a bit.

Don't buy the aftermarket brass radiator either. The plastic tanked aluminum is better but neither compare to OE.

 

[PHOENIX-GER]

I got mine at the local parts house. Murray is just about the only stock replacement option for cores and radiators for these trucks nowadays. Don't buy the aftermarket brass radiator either. The plastic tanked aluminum is better but neither compare to OE.

Thanks for sharing your expierence it will be helpful to got one

 

[ssdvc]

If you can, get the old heater re-cored (rebuilt) at a radiator shop. That seams to be the best route these days.

Can you send a link to the matt clear you used? I am in "eastern Europe" right now and thinking of picking up some to give it a try.

 

[PHOENIX-GER]

If you can, get the old heater re-cored (rebuilt) at a radiator shop. That seams to be the best route these days.

Can you send a link to the matt clear you used? I am in "eastern Europe" right now and thinking of picking up some to give it a try.

re-cored or rebuild of core or cooler is not more common in germany.
It is hard to find one who do this anymore

The complete paint coming up from militaerlacke.de

US Army paint

we used
383 Green
Black

and additional their other products as all matched to each other which simplifies processing
Primer
Primer with Epoxy
matt clear
Thinner

it is not a cheap source but it is worth the money

never neglect the work recommendations when painting, because often it is not the color but the processing that can negatively influence the result.

 

[87cr250r]

The heater core design doesn't lend itself to being recored. The radiator does. I have a premier shop locally that recores radiators. They aren't cheap. I junked my old radiator in the past because I couldn't afford to recore it. I regret that today now that I can afford the option. Just keep that in mind when replacing original parts.

If you're going to bare metal you should start with a zinc rich primer. Azko-Nobel has worldwide distribution. They have quite a few zinc rich primers, some available in rattle cans. They have industrial brands like International that are quite affordable and luxury brands such as AwlGrip that are not. If you're doing clear from a rattle can you can't beat Spraymax Spray 2k. I believe that is a German brand.

Spraymax does colors, too. I just used two cans to paint my engine though one of the valve covers got mega fisheyes due to silicones. Way better than the single part engine paints otherwise.

 

[PHOENIX-GER]

The heater core design doesn't lend itself to being recored. The radiator does. I have a premier shop locally that recores radiators. They aren't cheap. I junked my old radiator in the past because I couldn't afford to recore it. I regret that today now that I can afford the option. Just keep that in mind when replacing original parts.

If you're going to bare metal you should start with a zinc rich primer. Azko-Nobel has worldwide distribution. They have quite a few zinc rich primers, some available in rattle cans. They have industrial brands like International that are quite affordable and luxury brands such as AwlGrip that are not. If you're doing clear from a rattle can you can't beat Spraymax Spray 2k. I believe that is a German brand.

Spraymax does colors, too. I just used two cans to paint my engine though one of the valve covers got mega fisheyes due to silicones. Way better than the single part engine paints otherwise.

We are very carefully in replacements of original parts.
Fortunately it is not our first rebuild and not our first US Car.
We also made our expierience in that field in our youth long ago as we dont want listen to wise people

 

[PHOENIX-GER]

He got his original Color back also if we had our problems...



all work fine until the next day where we done the finish with matt clear
Also if we follow complete the instruction we had spots from the matt clear paint in it


about the instructions could these happen if you not follow the complete prepare with mixing.
We follow them strictly as we noticed this before where we also had repaint again
These spots become visibility only if all is dry
So if you want use it try the application before you start on the whole truck
We done the painting twice ... without now matt clear finish, as i dont want do it a third time. It seems we are not able to stirred well enough to prevent this...



IMPORTANT: It is extremely important to stir the clearcoat very well before applying it. The binders settle at the bottom of the can as a chewing gum-like mass after a short time. Simple shaking is not sufficient here, it must be stirred with a stir stick for at least 3 minutes. If the coating is not stirred properly, white spots, gray haze and gloss differences in the coating surface may occur.



Fortunetaly was the second painting the same great result like the first.
We go on with Raptor-Liner for the cargobox and forget finally the matt clear finish. It was a nice add on which not work for us

 

[Keith_J]

The original heater cores tend to fail on the solder joints. Repair takes a jig to resolder, once all the dirt is removed as there are multiple pieces laminated to make the core.

Aluminum cores work when installed correctly. They don't fill the core box completely and air can bypass when they are just thrown in. I used adhesive foam for heating systems with aluminum foil tape. Works great.

 

[PHOENIX-GER]

Next weekend will be a pitch-black weekend



4 bottles for the cargobox should be enough, but since this is only approximate, we ordered one more bottle.
There is still another truck waiting to be finished if we have rests.



Our son was bored during a phone call and already worked on the removal of the old Bedliner of the Sierra... it took him 5 min for the result. I wish the conversation had lasted longer If I now extrapolate how long I then need for the rest....

When the family meets to refuel at the gasstation will it be always expensive - the gasstation owner will be happy if we meet us there again with both trucks My employer support e-Car Owners with free recharging on the parking area of the company. My request also to support the others with payment for gas/diesel was rejected. They plan to take a fee to use the parking area, i guess to finance the charging e-car-costs. Usually need this a while to go through all instances and i am retired when it happend


nevertheless we can be lucky as it is not the highest price around Europe
Four weeks ago we had 2,25 Euro / Liter Diesel

 

[PHOENIX-GER]

Well a 4 Bottle Set is not enough for our M1008. Seems to be not an average Size from him as advertisment said 4 bottles engough for an average Cargobox. Maybe they measure by an



we need all 5 bottles alone on the box without the tailgate....

First round needed 3 bottles and was not covering so we spent all 5 on the box and hope if it is dry that not primer smiled back to us



also in production is the Lightbar electric inside the Rollbar
We dont want use longer zippers outside along as temporary construction



we use cable fittings

 

[PHOENIX-GER]

Today our Truck-Cover arrived
Since he is still without an engine and I really have no desire to workout pushing the unwilling part in and out when we work in the shop must be a cover over it when he is inside.

I don't know how they always want to get the stuff back in the cover.

We have the same "thing" for our XXL horse trailer if he is not parked in the shop, so we know it work well



It's really hard work to get the thing back into the box or sleeve. They could made the box or sleeve a bit bigger

Hopefully it also fits on the truck





nice and soft inside and outside a structure that breathes and also keeps out the weather



it is a company with branches in USA, Canada, UK and Germany
I am sure you know them under another name

Autoabdeckungsfabrik

 

[Mullaney]

Today our Truck-Cover arrived
Since he is still without an engine and I really have no desire to workout pushing the unwilling part in and out when we work in the shop must be a cover over it when he is inside.

I don't know how they always want to get the stuff back in the cover.

We have the same "thing" for our XXL horse trailer if he is not parked in the shop, so we know it work well

View attachment 881679

It's really hard work to get the thing back into the box or sleeve. They could made the box or sleeve a bit bigger

Hopefully it also fits on the truck

View attachment 881675

View attachment 881676

nice and soft inside and outside a structure that breathes and also keeps out the weather

View attachment 881677

it is a company with branches in USA, Canada, UK and Germany
I am sure you know them under another name

Autoabdeckungsfabrik

.
Sometimes the term is cramming 5 pounds of stuff into a 4 pound bag.

 

[PHOENIX-GER]

My wife made me today a present:



she never give up if she have a goal
I closed the troopseats issue and never expected to got them in Germany

 

[PHOENIX-GER]

Checked the dry Raptorliner
Looks now pretty good and the structure is not that rough as it seems to be by applying
So minimum for a M1008 are 6 bottles for cargobox and tailgate

 

[flyfishtrailer]

My wife made me today a present:

View attachment 881803

she never give up if she have a goal
I closed the troopseats issue and never expected to got them in Germany

Awesome, I am glad she was able to find you some! Cant wait for the finished product

 

[PHOENIX-GER]

We must hurry up as it will be soon to cold to paint and we need to heat the shop - something we want prevent
As we leave the shop after 10 hours all was still wet but done







The Finish of the Raptorliner on the box is great, so that we use it also in the cab

 

[Mullaney]

We must hurry up as it will be soon to cold to paint and we need to heat the shop - something we want prevent
As we leave the shop after 10 hours all was still wet but done

View attachment 882125

View attachment 882126

View attachment 882130

The Finish of the Raptorliner on the box is great, so that we use it also in the cab

View attachment 882131

View attachment 882132

View attachment 882134

.
Really nice brush bar and light bar too!
This truck sure is coming together nicely...