BFR
Rocket Surgeon
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pics of it painted?
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Redneck A/C and tool boxes on my M820A2
- Thread starter goldneagle
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goldneagle
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I mounted the painted fuel tank today. I used 4 allthreads and two 15" pieces of Unistrut to secure the tank into place. I added some CAMO colors to make it blend in better.
Tomorrow I will start to run the wires for the Inverter. i was running round today to look for ANL fuses for the wireing of the inverter. After wasting a lot of time I decided to just order them off Ebay. I will install them later when they arrive.
I hope to have some more pictures tomorrow.
Tomorrow I will start to run the wires for the Inverter. i was running round today to look for ANL fuses for the wireing of the inverter. After wasting a lot of time I decided to just order them off Ebay. I will install them later when they arrive.
I hope to have some more pictures tomorrow.
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Cool on the ceramic paint coating. New info for me. For power, you got what 24V*60A=1440W so that inverter is great! Hope it will start the a/c reliably. Most will do a pretty big surge. You are right - it will be much better than no a/c at all.
Pls keep us posted on the coating and how it works, that's very interesting.
goldneagle
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Well I finally got time to take some new pictures showing the fuel tank installation. I finally wired up the inverter to the batteries. i will have pictures of that next time. At least now I can actually use the A/C unit if I need it!
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goldneagle
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Another update!
I plugged up all the unused openings in the tank. I managed to install the pickup tube by soldering a curved copper tubing inside one of the threaded fittings that will pull fuel out of the tank. Since the hole was about 2" above the bottom of the tank it was the only way to get tot the fuel below the opening.
I used the 1/4" copper tubing I had saved from the Multi-fuel heater removal as well as the fuel pump that fed the system. I ran the copper tubing from the tank to the pump I installed above the fuel tank. I ran another copper tubing to the opening in the primary fuel tank that used to feed the heaters. I installed a small ball valve just above the primary tank so I am able to shut off the fuel flow if it syphons with the pump off!
I will run the power feed tot he pump as soon as i install an auxiliary fuse panel in the truck. I will also run a line to the dash with a toggle switch for turning the pump on and off.
I cut some 1/4" nylon sheet and installed 2 pieces on the bottoms of the 2 tool boxes I had installed earlier in the thread. Using some plastic bins and other containers I sorted out my tools and stacked them into the new tool boxes. I also brought out the big 1" impact driver and hoses and stored them in the undertruck box I had installed earlier this year. Now I have all the tools reachable without going into the back box. The only thing left in the back box is the 1400-20 spare tire. I figure if I have a flat the engine will still be running so I can use the liftgate and get access to the back box.
The liftgate will not work without the engine running and you cannot get access to the inside of the box without moving the liftgate away from the back doors!
I will try to get some new pictures tomorrow!!!
I plugged up all the unused openings in the tank. I managed to install the pickup tube by soldering a curved copper tubing inside one of the threaded fittings that will pull fuel out of the tank. Since the hole was about 2" above the bottom of the tank it was the only way to get tot the fuel below the opening.
I used the 1/4" copper tubing I had saved from the Multi-fuel heater removal as well as the fuel pump that fed the system. I ran the copper tubing from the tank to the pump I installed above the fuel tank. I ran another copper tubing to the opening in the primary fuel tank that used to feed the heaters. I installed a small ball valve just above the primary tank so I am able to shut off the fuel flow if it syphons with the pump off!
I will run the power feed tot he pump as soon as i install an auxiliary fuse panel in the truck. I will also run a line to the dash with a toggle switch for turning the pump on and off.
I cut some 1/4" nylon sheet and installed 2 pieces on the bottoms of the 2 tool boxes I had installed earlier in the thread. Using some plastic bins and other containers I sorted out my tools and stacked them into the new tool boxes. I also brought out the big 1" impact driver and hoses and stored them in the undertruck box I had installed earlier this year. Now I have all the tools reachable without going into the back box. The only thing left in the back box is the 1400-20 spare tire. I figure if I have a flat the engine will still be running so I can use the liftgate and get access to the back box.
The liftgate will not work without the engine running and you cannot get access to the inside of the box without moving the liftgate away from the back doors!
I will try to get some new pictures tomorrow!!!
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that is looking great GE... hope you can work out the pumping thing
laserlee123
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good idea on the AC unit, I might try it on my m820a2, I own a 1850 watt 12 volt to 110 volt inverter, planning on trying that, it should power it, although I'm considering istalling a bigger alternator. I think the stock one is 60 amp at 24 volt, maybe that would be enough with four batteries.
goldneagle
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I would not use the 12 volt to 120 volt inverter. You will end up damaging your batteries. I recommend you get the 24 volt to 120 inverter I mentioned earlier in this thread. It is very reasonably priced and will run the A/C unit without draining the batteries.
goldneagle
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Well I promised I would attach some more pictures of the project in progress so here goes!!!
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goldneagle
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Here are a few more.
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goldneagle
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Well work is ground to a halt as I await the arrival of the correct ANL fuse block for the main power feeds to the inverter and an auxiliary fuse panel. I was shipped the wrong fuse block - so I am waiting for the replacement. I will be running 1/0 from the batteries to the fuse block and continuing with 2x #4 feeds from there. The inverter is temporarily connected without fuse protection. (fuse to protect the batteries from a short, the inverter has built in fuses to protect it.)
I painted the face of the A/C unit with flat black Krylon paint in order to blend it in with the interior color of the soft top. (Pictures to come soon!)
I also managed to find the proper vented fuel cap for the Auxiliary fuel tank at NAPA. A bit pricy but fits perfect.
I painted the face of the A/C unit with flat black Krylon paint in order to blend it in with the interior color of the soft top. (Pictures to come soon!)
I also managed to find the proper vented fuel cap for the Auxiliary fuel tank at NAPA. A bit pricy but fits perfect.
rizzo
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I like your mods.
what is under your box on the outside of the frame rail on the passenger side?
what is under your box on the outside of the frame rail on the passenger side?
goldneagle
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It is a 3 phase pump for the liftgate. It is meant to be used when the truck is connected to a 3 phase power source - you don't have to run the engine to use the liftgate.
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goldneagle
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Well the proper fuse block came in yesterday!!! I went out this afternoon and started to install the power lines to the auxiliary fuse panel and the inverter.
I found some 1/0 wire with the ends already terminated. I disconnected the ground from the batteries and took off the temporary connections to the inverter. I installed a backing plate at the back of the battery box to allow me to mount the ANF fuse block. I attached the 1/0 cable to the input of the fuse block and 2 #4 cables coming out of the block. One of the #4 cables was attached to the inverter. The other #4 cable from the ANL fuse block I attached to the new Auxiliary fuse panel that I mounted behind the passenger seat.
I also mounted a ground block under the new Auxiliary fuse panel. I ran a 1/0 cable from the - terminal of the batteries to the ground block. I then ran 1 #4 cable out of the ground block to the inverter, and another #4 cable to the small ground strip on the auxiliary fuse panel.
Once I had all the connection done i mounted the ANL Fuse block the the backing plate behind the battery box. After the fuse block was secure I reconnected the ground to the batteries.
Now I have fuse protection for the batteries in case those two #4 cables short out or overload. I also have a 12 circuit fuse panel in the cab behind the seat that I can use for additional circuits. i will use one circuit to feed the fuel pump attached to the auxiliary fuel tank.
It was dark by the time I finished the work so I did not get a chance to take any pictures. i will do so tomorrow and add them to the thread.
Sorry if I bored you with too much detail!
I found some 1/0 wire with the ends already terminated. I disconnected the ground from the batteries and took off the temporary connections to the inverter. I installed a backing plate at the back of the battery box to allow me to mount the ANF fuse block. I attached the 1/0 cable to the input of the fuse block and 2 #4 cables coming out of the block. One of the #4 cables was attached to the inverter. The other #4 cable from the ANL fuse block I attached to the new Auxiliary fuse panel that I mounted behind the passenger seat.
I also mounted a ground block under the new Auxiliary fuse panel. I ran a 1/0 cable from the - terminal of the batteries to the ground block. I then ran 1 #4 cable out of the ground block to the inverter, and another #4 cable to the small ground strip on the auxiliary fuse panel.
Once I had all the connection done i mounted the ANL Fuse block the the backing plate behind the battery box. After the fuse block was secure I reconnected the ground to the batteries.
Now I have fuse protection for the batteries in case those two #4 cables short out or overload. I also have a 12 circuit fuse panel in the cab behind the seat that I can use for additional circuits. i will use one circuit to feed the fuel pump attached to the auxiliary fuel tank.
It was dark by the time I finished the work so I did not get a chance to take any pictures. i will do so tomorrow and add them to the thread.
Sorry if I bored you with too much detail!
goldneagle
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I slept in late today so i didn't get much done. i picked up a lighted toggle switch @ Advances Auto for the fuel pump as well as a short piece of radiator hose to insulate the cables coming through the floor. I managed to slit the hose the long way so I could wrap it around the cables and installed it around the 2 #4 Positive feeds as they came through the floor. i used tyraps to secure the hose to the cables so it won't move.
All I have left to do is install the toggle switch to the dash and run wire to the fuse block behind the seat and to the fuel pump. I hope to have that done tomorrow.
YES pictures to follow and that will end my updates to this thread!
All I have left to do is install the toggle switch to the dash and run wire to the fuse block behind the seat and to the fuel pump. I hope to have that done tomorrow.
YES pictures to follow and that will end my updates to this thread!
goldneagle
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Well here are the pictures I promised! A little late but at least I took them. ENJOY.....
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papabear
GA Mafia Imperial 1SG
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Looking good GE. Gonna let you try it a few times and if the truck doesn't flame off or you don't get fried I will bring the M185A3 down for you to install the AC etc.
OK Buddy??
OK Buddy??
goldneagle
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For you no problem PB! We can make it work.Looking good GE. Gonna let you try it a few times and if the truck doesn't flame off or you don't get fried I will bring the M185A3 down for you to install the AC etc.
OK Buddy??