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redoing the M35A2 headgasket

emmado22

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All,

My headgasket leaks a small bit of oil in 2 spots. Im going to change it out to the new style with the integral rings. (current one has the tabs, and of course it's not leaking from the tabs)

Other than the gaskets I'll need, stardard fluids, and the head wrench, what else do I need to do/get? My machinist buddy is going to check and plane the heads if needed. Do I need to concern myself with the valves and other stuff on the heads?

Im not an engine guy, I felt pretty accomplished when I had to redo the manifolds due to a "frozen" temp sensor.

I only want to do this once every 20 years, so Im now due. Other than the leak, it runs very strong, shifts great, and is sweet!

Anything Im forgetting?
 

Westech

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you will have to reset the valves as much as you take off the heads. so it you take off .01 on the head (way over max, should only go .004 to .006) you need to reset the valves as much in the valve seat. other then that check to make sure all the springs are good and not pooped out. Clean everything very very well take your time. Everything should go well.

would also be very good time to install new Brass freeze plugs in the heads too. Clinto has the part numbers for them.
 

m-35tom

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be sure it is not weeping at the vents, the small bits of gasket that stick out and there are 6 of them. this is normal. if you only have some seepage somewhere else i would still consider leaving it alone unless it becomes a real leak. i would not resurface the heads unless they need it, some do not. while the injectors are out have them checked, i have never seen a set of 6 that were completely ok and this has a real effect on starting ease, power and fuel economy. as to the valves, while the heads are off i guess i would pull a couple and see how worn the valve face is. they may be great, but they may also be marginal. best to find out now. look to see which bloch you have, the good ones have TD cast in the upper front side of block and this tells you which torque to use for head bolts. non TD i would consider finding another engine.
 

M215

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Multi-fuel heads

I have had the pleasure of doing this job twice on two M35s I have owned. Easy to do, just read and follow the TMs. Most have had bad luck with the surplus head bolt wrenchs, I made up my own by welding a 1/2" drive socket to the end of a shortened box wrench.
No need to remove the valves from the head, you will not be removing that much material. Check the valve springs for damage, these seem to crack (see picture).

Good luck, Karl
 

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emmado22

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It's a TD original engine that was factory installed, only 4,100 miles on it. It's leaking pretty good, way more than I'd like. Thanks for the help, keep it coming!
 

Westech

CPL
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it does state in the TM to reset the valves as mush as you shave off. I would do it! were talking about very close parts and a lot of heat... I don't know if I would just leave them alone because its ez, or you think its not a bid deal.
 

Nyeguy

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I am a diesel mechanic and have rebuilt many many engines and have never heard of a "Head wrench". But then again I'm new to the military vehicle game. Can anyone elaborate on this please? Because I also have a head gasket job coming up.
 

jbayer

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St. Aug., FL/ McGrady, NC
I am a diesel mechanic and have rebuilt many many engines and have never heard of a "Head wrench". But then again I'm new to the military vehicle game. Can anyone elaborate on this please? Because I also have a head gasket job coming up.
Head bolt wrench.jpg
Not a "head wrench",
Off-set adapter for access to one of the head bolts. Store bought (shown) or homemade.
Search for Deuce head bolt wrench.
Lots of threads/posts
 
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