Red's deuce/camper project

[red]

Mud is something I tend to avoid. Gearing let's me idle up the rocks/trails slow and controlled.

Trans upgrade is on hold for at least a few months. Windshield wipers, air line upgrade (better quality), and maybe a hx35 turbo are all that will happen to the truck before the move.

 

[rustystud]

I don't think the input shaft and gears in the second trans will thake the torque out of the fist box in the low gears and the T-case will not handle the torque of both boxes in low gears. Now if you drive sanely and stay on the road you can get away with it, but the first time you torque the driveline up say goodby. I did a simple gear change from 4:10 to 5:88 and snapped front axle u-joint and one rear axle. Had to upgrade all axles to handle torque. Keep us informed I have thought about doing same thing but would lock both ends first. I know that if you are powering all 6 or 10 tires you will not get stuck.

I agree going with an air-locker on all three axles would be a better bang for the buck but I also think the second transmission could handle the extra torque as long as your not shifting it under heavy load. The transfer case would also be able to handle the load if you installed a lubricating system in it. Just use a simple pump to bring oil to the top of the case and let it flow back in. That way when your slow crawling you will not be running the bearings dry.

 

[rustystud]

Mud is something I tend to avoid. Gearing let's me idle up the rocks/trails slow and controlled.

Trans upgrade is on hold for at least a few months. Windshield wipers, air line upgrade (better quality), and maybe a hx35 turbo are all that will happen to the truck before the move.

Go with "DOT" poly hose (Nylon). Easy to repair in the field if it gets cut and will last your lifetime. I know it's heresy around here to bad talk the fuel lines and air lines but modern technology has come a long way in the last 60 years. The biggest problem I find is vibration cracks in the air and fuel lines. That is why I have changed-out all mine.

 

[red]

I can get my hands on some DOT steel braided cloth covered hose and reusable jic fittings. Running that for my fuel line already as well.

The truck did great on the camping trip to Big Bend.

 

[red]

Bit of a pain to get aligned but its on

 

[Another Ahab]

Bit of a pain to get aligned but its on
View attachment 546494View attachment 546495

Paint job later, or as is?

Looks plenty fine as is, btw.

 

[red]

Thanks, it will be repainted later. I'd like to repaint it using those ceramic microbeads to help insulate, they don't cost much and mix with any paint.

I also need to cut into it for a window and an ac unit.

For this trip it will be strapped down, thinking of bolting it down later so it can be expanded on the truck. Need drop sides for that as well.

 

[red]

Waiting for the new drill to arrive so kind of at a stand still this weekend. Upgrading to a spin on secondary fuel filter and moving both filters to the engine, where the stock secondary filters were.

Bypassed the FDC. There is safety wire all over that, don't think mine was turned up by the military. I peaked at just over 1200 on my EGT's on the trip to Big Bend on a very long, steady grade.


An HX35 turbo is on the way, along with the adapters needed for the exhaust. The wastegate is set to 24psi from the factory. I'd like to set it lower initially for testing. Bear in mind I don't drive at red line, usually cruise at 22-2300rpm on the highway.

Water pumps on the way and a solar water heater for the camper as well. Once the drill arrives should be a busy few weeks.

 

[Another Ahab]

Thanks, it will be repainted later. I'd like to repaint it using those ceramic microbeads to help insulate, they don't cost much and mix with any paint.

Never heard of these before:

- An additive for paint, with insulation qualities!?

 

[red]

http://www.hytechsales.com/insulating_paint_additives.html

Provides an extra layer of sound and thermal insulation. I'd like to test it on the cab/hood first sometime in the next 2 years.

 

[red]

Need to do some cutting on the front of the bed to access the electric/water hookups. Will pull the camper back 1-2ft, cut, then slide the camper forward again

 

[Hainebd]

What turbo are you going with? Any history on installing on m35A2?

 

[red]

A Chinese copy of the hx35, stock turbo on the Cummins 12 and 24 valve. Cost about $260. Turbo wastegate is set at 24psi.

I have not found anyone that has run it on a multifuel.

Its a much more efficient turbo, with the ability to effectively flow at a higher rate than the C, and D turbos.

Taking a lesson that was learned with the GM 6.5 diesels from the 90's. The stock turbos that came on them reached maximum efficiency around 12psi. They could build higher boost, but at the cost of excessive heat and absurd EGT's. Same problem we are having.

Going off of the turbo map for the hx35, we need 27psi of boost at 2300rpm for 200hp, right in the middle of the hx35 peak efficiency.

The big concern is with the stock exhaust flange. Multifuel has a T6, hx35 is the smaller T3. Not sure how much of an effect that will create on EGT's.

 

[welldigger]

I'd be concerned with lifting the heads at that much boost.

 

[red]

At 24 or 27? Either way I agree, might turn it down some for initial testing.

With the waiting today figured I'd start test fitting the water cans and generator. Can't fit the jerry cans over the stock fuel tank, too close to the bed. Same problem with the generator (24x18x1. I can fit the cans and generator where the stock spare was, just no room for the second fuel tank.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Max of 18-20 psi for boost, and at 20 you will be right at the edge of head lifting.

 

[rustystud]

I'd be concerned with lifting the heads at that much boost.

Get the "ARP" head studs.

 

[welldigger]

Get the "ARP" head studs.

I would think you would need a better head gasket also. Multifuel heads flex a lot as it is.

 

[rustystud]

I would think you would need a better head gasket also. Multifuel heads flex a lot as it is.

Agreed, new head gaskets and "ARP" head studs.

 

[red]

Anyone have the info on which studs to get?