Refine used motor oil?

[Kalashnikov]

Feel free to over-complicate what many of us have posted as a simple filtering process.

Agreed. WMO it self is fuel in a diesel, it'd be completely unnecessary to "refine" it, waste time, money and energy just to loose 40% of your fuel.

 

[crazywelder72]

so is any of this necessary if you have a multifuel motor? can you just pour wmo directly into the tank? i assume thats why we have 3 filters.

 

[greenjeepster]

so is any of this necessary if you have a multifuel motor? can you just pour wmo directly into the tank? i assume thats why we have 3 filters.

You can... I tried that once and the IP started leaking real bad and had to be replaced... don't know if it was related, but I am not going to try it again.

 

[REDWOLF]

If you are going to run wmo in a cucv than you need to fillter it down to 1 micron to get the carbon out of it, if not it will destroy your ip pump. I am going to use a old oil burner pump and two fillters. One on the front side that is 5 micron and one on the other side of the pump thats is 1 micron. Then just mix it with clean diesel. Summer time you can mix 50/50 or better, winter time you will have to cut back on the filltered wmo so it will flow.

 

[eagle4g63]

so is any of this necessary if you have a multifuel motor? can you just pour wmo directly into the tank? i assume thats why we have 3 filters.

If you have the right filters in there YES.....the problem is most I see here use the same filter in the second and third canister.....not the right ones(10 micron is the most common number everyone spits out) the second is a 10 micron but the third is suppose to be a 5 micron.

Also to help with cost and ease at least change out the primary housing on the frame to a Wix # 24770 it is a spin on housing that is a NON bypass housing(meaning it will not let the fuel bypass the filter if it get plugged-very important) and then you can use any number of spin on fuel filters from Napa or Wix. I use a 10 micron water separator(factory is a 30 micron).

All that would happen if you use the oil straight up is plug the primary faster so you have to keep a spare with you at all times(5 min. and you are back on the road)....On a side note you will start to get sludge build up in your tank if you use it straight up.

 

[budman67]

Centrifuges rarely go boom, or draw any ire from HOA or the law and they are cheap to run.

I have been reading again on centrifuges, I haven't yet noticed
one blowing up. Is this true, and how, unbalanced ?

 

[crazywelder72]

eagle4g63. i never even considered sludge in the tank. I am actually in process of cleaning out my tank right now from all the neglect from the previous owners ( what a mess, thank god i have a friend with a pressure washer/hot box and a nice place with a separator in the drain). what p/n filters you using?

 

[Kalashnikov]

so is any of this necessary if you have a multifuel motor? can you just pour wmo directly into the tank? i assume thats why we have 3 filters.

You're better off filtering before it goes into the tank so you don't get stuck on the side of the road changing filters.

You can... I tried that once and the IP started leaking real bad and had to be replaced... don't know if it was related, but I am not going to try it again.

I have found that leaks before the IP don't leak as bad and leaks after the IP get worse on WMO.

If you are going to run wmo in a cucv than you need to fillter it down to 1 micron to get the carbon out of it, if not it will destroy your ip pump. I am going to use a old oil burner pump and two fillters. One on the front side that is 5 micron and one on the other side of the pump thats is 1 micron. Then just mix it with clean diesel. Summer time you can mix 50/50 or better, winter time you will have to cut back on the filltered wmo so it will flow.

1 micron is pretty extreme. I filter to 10m 3 times and let my oil sit for months and have had no issues. Although mine is not in a CUCV but I can't imagine that IP to have tighter tolerances than a Cummins 250, 300, or an International 7.3.



Sludge shouldn't be an issue if you let your oil sit and never pump from the bottom of the barrel. You could flush the system with diesel every few thousand miles as well.



I have also found that different vehicles require different fuel ratios. Some pumps pull thicker oil better than others. 100% WMO shouldn't be a problem in any vehicle in 70* weather I'd think. I've run 100% in the winter, you just need to let the engine start and shutdown on diesel. you will have to wait til the tank of WMO heats up or you may experience surging and loss of power if the IP isn't capable of pumping the thicker oil.

 

[needmoretrucks]

The guys in that thread have been having lots of success with converting pp and pe plastics into fuel products primarily heavier oily diesel like products. Some use a wmo base heated to 160 degrees Celsius then add the plastic which will melt.
The significance of that is you don't have to use shredded plastic or pellets (which are actually kinda pricey) and can use milk jugs and such whole process and end up with a clean fuel that won't leave soot and ashes allover your cylinders and pistons like wmo can do. (Though I understand ATF added to WMO helps clean up the mess.)
Still no booms reported using this system. Just another way to do it and you could run on plastic fuels that would otherwise end up In landfills as this system can utilize "dirty" plastics with dies and glue on labels that are not able to be profitably recycled through other means.

 

[Kalashnikov]

It seems like using the plastic method would also finally allow the use of paint for fuel. Seems like it opens up a whole new world actually since you could pretty much use anything petroleum based.

 

[Blind Driver]

It seems like using the plastic method would also finally allow the use of paint for fuel. Seems like it opens up a whole new world actually since you could pretty much use anything petroleum based.

But you don't really know what you're getting in the end.

 

[needmoretrucks]

But you don't really know what you're getting in the end.

Actually you do. Due to the different tempratures that different hydrocarbon chains move into a gaseous form based on there length. This allows separation of diesel kerosene gasoline and even lighter liquid fuels. You can use a simple catalyst and different temperatures to change the ratio of what is produced as all the fuels are essentially the same just different lengths of hydrocarbon chains.
There are thousands of gallons of diesel produced this way everyday. Lots large plastic proccessors make this fuel onsight to power there factories.

 

[chevyCUCV]

Here is a very current and detailed thread were a number of guys are converting plastic, wmo, etc... into diesel and gasoline.
I'm gonna try it I'm sure regular diesel has more power then wmo and is probably easier on the motor(or use to cut your regular emo) but that parts just opinion. Enjoy

How to turn plastic waste into diesel fuel cheaply

Thank you for that link. I have found an interesting and informative thread on the other side. Only a few pages into it but it really has me thinking.
Best is that it is being done successfully, and it really makes you realize all the fuel around us in plastic.

 

[needmoretrucks]

Thirty pages in and your head will be swimming! After I get moved into my new house I'm gonna start scratching together a system to crack me some fuel.

 

[needmoretrucks]

I have to report about one near boom using this conversion process. Guy filled a tin paint can with plastic waste smacked the lid on tight, heated it up to 400c over a propane burner and had a 1/2 inch steel pipe stuck in it to catch the fuel. Seems the can swelled up and nearly burst (who'd a thunk ) never did go boom but that dummy came close.

It is highly recommended to use a reactor that is not made from tin.

 

[Jesse6325]

I have to report about one near boom using this conversion process. Guy filled a tin paint can with plastic waste smacked the lid on tight, heated it up to 400c over a propane burner and had a 1/2 inch steel pipe stuck in it to catch the fuel. Seems the can swelled up and nearly burst (who'd a thunk ) never did go boom but that dummy came close.

It is highly recommended to use a reactor that is not made from tin.

Or ANY thin walled reactor for that matter. Ever throw an aeresol can in a fire?
Cheap fireworks!

 

[jmckay]

Im new to owning a deuce and have always heard about running the WMO through as fuel but after reading all the above threads im kinda confused as what would be the best ,cheapest way, to get oil that is good enough to run through my truck.

Im a college student so money is kinda always next to zero, but being a welding student I have been able to make alot of the parts and equipment I need to get stuff done... Ive mad waste oil burners before to preheat steel in my shop and to melt scrap aluminum and iron but the only thing I did to "treat" that stuff was just strain it.

Would running it through a double filtration be good enough to run through the truck or should I do anything else. Also what would be one of the things that would be under the most strain when useing WMO, im guessing the fuel pump and few other things.

 

[needmoretrucks]

If you can afford it centrifuge a wmo and ATF mix. I think the cheapest you can go for a centrifuge is 650 or so. Its my understanding that it is common to have a centrifuge on larger diesel fired boats/yachts and that these can be had used for less then other options. Other people here will know more about that. Search for centrifuge or filter or just wmo there's a number of other ways.

If you have the time and some spare pipes and air compressor/propane tanks along with scrap plate build an oil distiller/cracker and use that oil burner you've built to heat the reaction. This will produce the best fuels but is not a quick fix. Plus you can add a percentage of plastic (or use all plastic) to create fuel. This is also good for really nasty oil with all kinds of contaminants like gear oil's ,grease, sludge ,dirt, rocks sand, water, antifreeze...... nasty stuff.

 

[Kalashnikov]

Im new to owning a deuce and have always heard about running the WMO through as fuel but after reading all the above threads im kinda confused as what would be the best ,cheapest way, to get oil that is good enough to run through my truck.

Im a college student so money is kinda always next to zero, but being a welding student I have been able to make alot of the parts and equipment I need to get stuff done... Ive mad waste oil burners before to preheat steel in my shop and to melt scrap aluminum and iron but the only thing I did to "treat" that stuff was just strain it.

Would running it through a double filtration be good enough to run through the truck or should I do anything else. Also what would be one of the things that would be under the most strain when useing WMO, im guessing the fuel pump and few other things.

I use a 2.5" water pump from harbor freight with a 10 micron spin on filter. It's quick and effective. I let my oil sit in a 55 gallon drum for a while, anywhere from a week to months, then pump into a 280 gallon IBC tote where it sits until I need fuel. I never pump drirectly from the bottom, always around 6" from the bottom to prevent water suction. I use the pump to fill my tanks up as well so It is filtered at least twice before entering the tank.

Getting WMO will be the cheapest way since you can get it free and just have to pay for gas in the pump.