Remote Brake Fluid Reservoir

[Capt.Marion]

Also:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce-modification-hot-rodding/21124-remote-brake-reservoir-done.html

 

[BFR]

I made mine from a piece of scrap pressure rated 4" pvc pipe. The top cap has a large threaded plug(for filling) that I installed a schrader valve in(for pressurizing). The bottom cap has a nipple that connects to a steel brake line that runs directly to the MC cap. If I want to bleed the brakes I just air up small air tank to 25-30 psi, connect to tank to the schrader valve and then go around opening bleeders.

note, the core of the schrader valve is threaded out so that it can still vent.

I painted it green and mounted to the back wall of the cab.

 

[dabtl]

I made mine from a piece of scrap pressure rated 4" pvc pipe. The top cap has a large threaded plug(for filling) that I installed a schrader valve in(for pressurizing). The bottom cap has a nipple that connects to a steel brake line that runs directly to the MC cap. If I want to bleed the brakes I just air up small air tank to 25-30 psi, connect to tank to the schrader valve and then go around opening bleeders.

note, the core of the schrader valve is threaded out so that it can still vent.

I painted it green and mounted to the back wall of the cab.

Nothing wrong with that. Another good idea.

 

[BugEyeBear]

What else does the vent line service? It is a T connection to the master cylinder cap.

The vent line also connects to the airpak/booster and to either the main draft tube (from the engine) OR to a separate vent line that vents near the air cleaner.

On some M35 installations this vent line also connects to the fuel tank vent, BUT this vent system SHOULD have already been modified to isolate the fuel system from the brake system. Fuel contamination of the brake system can cause brake failures. (see PM article)

If you are disconnecting the vent line from the master cylinder you should cap it off to prevent moisture or dirt from getting into your airpak.


The remote M/C reservoir is a GREAT modification. Adds convenience AND increases the likelihood that you'll check the fluid level regularly, so it increases safty also!!
It is on my list of things to do! (I HATE the M/C location!)

-Bear-

 

[dabtl]

I was figuring to cap it off and now I know why. Thanks.

 

[steelandcanvas]

I made mine from a piece of scrap pressure rated 4" pvc pipe. The top cap has a large threaded plug(for filling) that I installed a schrader valve in(for pressurizing). The bottom cap has a nipple that connects to a steel brake line that runs directly to the MC cap. If I want to bleed the brakes I just air up small air tank to 25-30 psi, connect to tank to the schrader valve and then go around opening bleeders.

note, the core of the schrader valve is threaded out so that it can still vent.

I painted it green and mounted to the back wall of the cab.

Are you using this as a remote reservoir also?

 

[ida34]

I have an Acura Integra brake reservoir that I have not installed yet. I plan to put it on the firewall. The thing about the Acura reservoir is that it has a level switch built in and I plan to wire in a brake warning light in the dash. I stole the idea from a previous post about adding the remote reservoir.

 

[dabtl]

The Accura conversion was really neat. However, I do not have much skill with electrical stuff, other than following cranetruck's advice, and fabricating a mount is more than I want to undertake, particularly when I can get it all cheaply and simple to install.

This is a project that I keep hitting myself and saying, 'Why did you not do this sooner?'

 

[BFR]

Are you using this as a remote reservoir also?

yes, with the schrader valve loose it acts as a reservoir (it easily holds 1 quart of fluid, would probably hold 2)

 

[dabtl]

I completed the install today with the brake fluid hose in place. It is a 5/16 hose about four feet long. I ran it from the remote reservoir to the MC. It was a kind of strange fit going under the cab, sharp metal angles and other wiring and such. I got concerned about the possibility of metal rubbing through the hose at the wrong time! The solution was easy. I got some 1/2 inch ID rubber hose, cut it length wise and put the brake fluid hose down the six inch length of the hose. The brake fluid hose is a tight fit, the outside hose is going no where and any rubbing will be on the rubber hose. Put the hose in place, tightened the worm clamps and finished.

 

[frodobaggins]

I completed the install today with the brake fluid hose in place. It is a 5/16 hose about four feet long. I ran it from the remote reservoir to the MC. It was a kind of strange fit going under the cab, sharp metal angles and other wiring and such. I got concerned about the possibility of metal rubbing through the hose at the wrong time! The solution was easy. I got some 1/2 inch ID rubber hose, cut it length wise and put the brake fluid hose down the six inch length of the hose. The brake fluid hose is a tight fit, the outside hose is going no where and any rubbing will be on the rubber hose. Put the hose in place, tightened the worm clamps and finished.

And where are your pics ??.....

 

[ida34]

I completed the install today with the brake fluid hose in place. It is a 5/16 hose about four feet long. I ran it from the remote reservoir to the MC. It was a kind of strange fit going under the cab, sharp metal angles and other wiring and such. I got concerned about the possibility of metal rubbing through the hose at the wrong time! The solution was easy. I got some 1/2 inch ID rubber hose, cut it length wise and put the brake fluid hose down the six inch length of the hose. The brake fluid hose is a tight fit, the outside hose is going no where and any rubbing will be on the rubber hose. Put the hose in place, tightened the worm clamps and finished.

I would replace the hose with brake line with a small hose at the end. That much hose is asking for trouble and a leak.

 

[dabtl]

I would replace the hose with brake line with a small hose at the end. That much hose is asking for trouble and a leak.

I had considered that possibility. But, it was quicker to install, I did put the 1/2 inch rubber hose on the spot I considered most like to rub and leak. I will post a pic if it ever stops raining here.

My thinking is this is just a vented remote reservoir which I will be able to check each time I start to drive the truck. If the reservoir is empty, it will mean either a leak or a major problem with the MC and need immediate attention. Kind of like having a warning light on the dash. It does not do much other than alert you to a problem.

 

[dabtl]

I just finished my second install. The only change is I routed the hose lower to rest on the frame. No need for the rubber cover, I think.

Total time, about 45 minutes.

Easy, quick and now checking the BFS is soooooo easy!

 

[Srjeeper]

dabtl, two questions:

Did you removed the splash plate from the underside of the MC cap as suggested in the Ross write-up?

Secondly, what are the part numbers for the units you installed. When I searched Motives page it came up with nothing like you used.

Thanks.......

 

[dabtl]

I did not remove anything. I left well enough alone.

The parts are:

#3557--mounting bracket--$8.99
#3577--clamp--$1.99
#3558--tank medium--$7.99
#3575--BFS hose, sold by the foot, you need at least four feet, I ordered five. $2.99 per foot.
#3564--reservoir cap--$5.99
#3559--medium and larger reservoir filter--$4.49

Then you will need a 90 degree elbow, a hose nipple and two worm clamps.

I do not own or make any money from Pegasus, I just found it to be low cost and to have good service. I hope this does not violate any of the mods rules.

 

[Srjeeper]

Thanks dabtl for the #'s. I found the parts on Pegasus also, but wanted to double check #'s.

Did you receive the bleeder addapter (Part #1112) yet and try it out?

I've had the bleeder tank for some time and find it to be priceless when it comes to bleeding the brakes. This upgrade would eliminate the need to go under the trap door completely and that would be fine by me.

 

[dabtl]

I got one from Motive, same place I got the pressure bleeder. Using worm clamps on the hose should allow some pressure for bleeding.

 

[dabtl]

My final post in this thread, I think. With all the rain and flu I had not plugged the vent system at the frame. I took the vent line loose and went to ACE Hardware. They gave me something called a double inverted plug for the vent fitting. It has a bottom that resembles that of the original vent line and seals better than a flat bottom plug.

These are .62 each and are the easiest part of the entire job .

 

[AceHigh]

Dabtl, thanks for the great write up, made it real easy. Just completed mine.

Still have to go to Ace for the plug. I had a bunch of heater hose lying around so I just protected the whole run.