Removing air from cooling system

[MblevinsRGR175]

Hello, I’ve searched the TMs but haven’t found the answer to this- can someone tell me the proper way to remove air from the cooling system? I replaced the thermostat. I’ve seen people mention using bleeder screws, but that’s all I know.

Also- do people have a way of using TMs on an iPhone that allows using a text search function?

Thanks for any input.

 

[jkcondrey]

http://gear-report.com/wp-content/u...ries. Part 2. Jan 1990_TM-9-2320-280-20-2.pdf


The second tm has the info on it. Section 3-1 engine systems, starting at 3-59. But basically you run engine with heater on full, run it till the thermostat opens. Depressurize the tank to allow excess out. Recap it, then repeat. The tm does have the step by step on it, but that's basically what it is doing, just running the system allowing the air to enter the overflow tank and then you depressurize. Recap it and do again.

 

[Carrera911]

When I did my coolant flush I simply topped off the expansion tank, heater valve fully open and started the truck until it was up to temp. Leave the cap off the tank and pump the throttle in neutral to speed / slow the water pump. This will help burp the bubbles. Top off the tank, replace cap and go for a short drive. Check the level after it cools off and you should be good. I added a bottle of water wetter to mine since these do tend to run pretty hot and a few degrees cooler won’t hurt.

Also I added all the tms to the iBooks app on my iPhone so they’re all saved and much easier to flip through. Not sure if there is a search function though. To do this open the tm in safari, click the box with a up arrow in the bottom middle. Scroll over to the iBook icon and you’re done. You can also bookmark pages through iBooks as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[cranetruck]

I had very good results using the Airlift kit...

After draining the system, the Airlift adapter is installed in the filler neck of the radiator and it creates a vacuum via compressed air hook-up, which is next used to suck coolant back into the cooling system, leaving no air pockets.

In the image below, note the collapsed radiator hose (xm757) created by the vacuum.

 

[sue]

Or you can do it the easy way, just remove
the two(2) little hoses on the reservoir tank
just aft of the cap. One runs just “up stream”
of the thermostat, the other runs to the top
of the passenger side of the radiator.
With those hoses disconnected and held up, now
Open the heater valve and fill the reservoir
tank. Once filled connect hoses, start up,
check for leaks. Go drive and adjust as
necessary.

 

[ken]

I agree with Carrera 911. I leave the cap off, fill the tank, then start the engine with the heater valve on. The air will come out of the engine first. Then the rad after the thermostat opens. Air will also be pushed out of both as you add the coolant. You can add 2 gallons at a time slowly to let the air escape via the tank. As the coolant enters the bottom of the block and rad it will push the air out. You will have air pockets trapped in the heads. This is where running the engine with the cap off lets this air escape via the tank. Just continue to top it off as the level drops.

 

[cajadao]

Just in case...The position of the thermostat is important. The little vents needs to be on the top for the air pass by.

 

[JoeJrTheBarber]

Another way to get the air out or "pack" the system is to use ice cubes.
Sounds weird but works like a champ. With the vehicle running from cold open the radiator cap and literally put as many ice cubes as you can into the radiator.
As the ice melts it "packs" the system and forces whatever air bubbles thru the system and to the top of the radiator (highest open point in the system).

I have swore by this in high performance race cars and such and it works...

 

[911joeblow]

In a stock system without our coolant upgrade kits, heater full on, fill the system, run the truck with the radiator cap off of the overflow for a few mins, top it back off, and drive the truck. There is going to be air in the heads, especially at the back. In fact we have found that the pumps cavitate and aerate the coolant too so air pockets will form regardless.

 

[nf6x]

I initially had trouble with air in my cooling system, until I discovered that the nipples on the overflow tank where the small hoses attach were clogged with rust and gunk. Once I cleared those clogs out, my truck's cooling system bled itself like it's supposed to.