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Reoccurring brake issues on M109A3

Stykz

New member
22
1
3
Location
CA
When I first picked up my truck back in Dec. 2014 I didn't have any brake problems. Forward to May of this last year and my drivers rear hub would lock up and not release. I bled the wheel cylinder which had pressure and it released. No other wheels demonstrated pressure while stopped with the frozen brake. It was a rebuilt cylinder and I figured maybe I did something wrong so I hit up a napa and got an entire wheel cylinder to replace it. Upon replacement my entire brake circuit wouldn't properly bleed and I had semi functional brakes for awhile.

Notice brake failure shortly after, found the front seal on my master cylinder had failed and deposited my DOT5 into the road. Had a friend manufacture me a new seal piece to get me to a safe location and rebuilt both the airpack and master. Upon bleeding, one by one the rest of the wheel cylinders blew out until the system was all new componenets.

Drove it probably 500 miles and then the brake pedal froze up, stiff as a board and applying no pressure to wheel cylinders. I was getting pressure at airpack bleed valve, could crack it and pedal would depress but upon reset would just become stiff again. This is with and without air pressure. I was in the middle of nowhere without cell service and ended up just working the brake with air pressure on and eventually it gave way to functional brakes.

Since this point my brakes hang up, if I depress the pedal it wont reset for up to a minute and I have noticed my PASSENGER rear hub getting hot from brake hangup. Unsure what could be the cause of the continuous issues? I have driven maybe 700 miles since the pedal freeze and just recently I feel like it might be working properly but I have been very skeptical of the brakes :)

It's my DD and would like to try and sort it ASAP

Thanks for any input
 

73m819

Rock = older than dirt , GA. MAFIA , Dirty
Steel Soldiers Supporter
In Memorial
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Location
gainesville, ga.
Make sure your master cylinder is returning all the way, pull the linkage pin, make sure the piston is FULLY returned, then adjust the linkage to that point.
 
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