Replacement Parts for MEP-002a

[Carl_in_NH]

Yes, I typically keep it in an unheated garage. That's good for about a 10 degree rise over the outside temp at night. I have a deep bay, and a short car (Audi TT), so I can place the genset at the back of the bay and not have an issue - other than not being able to get to the Pratt & Whitney lathe that's behind the genset. I tend not to spend too much time in the garage during the Winter, so that's Ok. As I roll toward 50, I no longer like spending much time working in the cold. One of these days I'll build a proper shop with some heat.

 

[steelandcanvas]

so, this must be how you keep a generator junkie in suspense
We need pics and videos man...LOL

Jonathan, I hope she fires right off for you and makes good power. The fact that she turns over is a BIG step forward!

SUCESS!!! Just got in from running the Genny. Right on time too, it's about 15 above with a 5 mph wind, I can't feel my feet! See what I go through to shorten your suspense time. Anyway, She fired up on the third try, made good power, I had to adjust to 60hz. Turned the voltage control up to 240 volts and just let her warm up. DC charged right back up according to the engine volt meter. DC voltage was right at 28 volts. AC (single phase) was right at 120/240, no load. No excessive smoke, had one leak though. Final fuel leaked, I just took the cannister off and re-set it, no more leak! The oil pressure gauge does not work, I will replace that soon. Other than the few minor things, I am a happy camper. Now I'll have to dig a ditch, put my conduit in, pull the wire, and tie her into the house. Already have my entry box connection, just need to buy that fancy breaker interlock and I'll have everything I need for standby power. Thanks again Carl and Tom for your well wishes and support!

 

[Speddmon]

WOO HOO!!!!! Another success story

I'm glad to hear you got her running. She is a beast isn't she?

Just a tip, because mine do this. If you adjusted it to 60 Hz when you first started it, you might want to go back and look at it after it's good and warm. It might "creep" up on you a little. I leave my throttle control alone at 60Hz and shut her down. But when I start them back up, they are running a little slow (maybe 55 or 58 Hz). After 5 minutes or so to warm up though, they fall right back on the 60 Hz mark.

 

[steelandcanvas]

WOO HOO!!!!! Another success story

I'm glad to hear you got her running. She is a beast isn't she?

Just a tip, because mine do this. If you adjusted it to 60 Hz when you first started it, you might want to go back and look at it after it's good and warm. It might "creep" up on you a little. I leave my throttle control alone at 60Hz and shut her down. But when I start them back up, they are running a little slow (maybe 55 or 58 Hz). After 5 minutes or so to warm up though, they fall right back on the 60 Hz mark.

Advice taken. She didn't deviate but a Hz or two after She got to operating temp, but I will leave the throttle where it's at and check again tomorrow. Do you put a fuel additive in the tank, just like you would a Deuce? I use Disel Kleen in the Deuce.

 

[Speddmon]

I run off road diesel in my equipment (everything but the Deuce of course). I put a treatment in my storage drum when I get it filled, mostly because I know it's going to be sitting there a year or two until it's used up. So, that being said, I guess it wouldn't be a bad idea to use some kind of additive.

 

[steelandcanvas]

Didn't even think about using the "red stuff", guess I could go down to the Co-Op and fill me up a drum. $$$$$$$

 

[Carl_in_NH]

Great news, Jonathan! Glad to hear you got it running.

I've found it handy to have a length of fuel line ready for the AUX fuel input. If you've got oil fired heat, you can let the generator fill its day tank by dropping the AUX fuel line down the filler neck for your home heating oil, or put the end into some other source of diesel - like a deuce tank. When you've got an extended outage, it sure is nice to let it sip some of the fuel you've already got around the house rather than running out each day to buy diesel or gasoline.

 

[DieselBob]

SUCESS!!! Just got in from running the Genny. Right on time too, it's about 15 above with a 5 mph wind, I can't feel my feet! See what I go through to shorten your suspense time. Anyway, She fired up on the third try, made good power, I had to adjust to 60hz. Turned the voltage control up to 240 volts and just let her warm up.

Nice to hear she up and running and ready to do it's job.

 

[Grove]

I run off road diesel in my equipment (everything but the Deuce of course). I put a treatment in my storage drum when I get it filled, mostly because I know it's going to be sitting there a year or two until it's used up. So, that being said, I guess it wouldn't be a bad idea to use some kind of additive.

PRI-D is a wonderful diesel additive for stored fuel. Retired boat captain turned me onto it and I also use the PRI-G for stored or old gasoline.

I've never ordered from here but they have good prices.
http://www.johnfjensen.com/acatalog/catalog.php?maincat=PRI Fuel Treatments

I have ordered from here and they are quick and always send catalogs of other products they offer on their site.

Ready Made Resources Solar Power Disaster Preparedness Store Emergency Supplies

Grove

 

[Speddmon]

jbk,

If all of the instrumentation and metering of your generator works, I would not bother to replace the CV/CVT. The plastic that is broken is just the mounting cases. The actual plastic that protects the coils of the CT/CVT are inside of that case (kind of like a double layer of plastic). That first sentence kind of answers your question. The CT/CVT is the controller for most of your voltage regulation and instrumentation. The low voltage signal to your voltage regulator comes from the CT/CVT, and the % load meter and voltage meter get their signals from the CT/CVT.

Reasons, first off, they are a royal pain in the a$$ to get to...ask DieselBob.

Secondly, they are very expensive!! Someone posted a thread a few months ago about the same thing, and said they found one that someone (dealer I think) was willing to sell for around $400. Keep in mind that the MEP-002 and MEP-003 have different CT/CVT assemblies.

I don't know what I was thinking when I posted that. I must have been drinking when I looked at the TM. The CT/CVT assemblies for the MEP-002a and MEP-003a are EXACTLY the same.

 

[mistaken1]

I fired my MEP-002A up this past weekend. Started easily, made power (no load test though).

Need to replace a few parts, clean out some barrels for long term diesel and of course wire it into the house.

Have not searched but thought I would ask anyway. What about mufflers and piping the exhaust to the outside? Any issues with too much restriction?

The exhaust looks to be a 1-1/4" steel pipe, looking at an electrical (large radius) ninety degree fitting to send a straight pipe (or a muffler) out the side of the building with some sort of weather head/turn down to keep the rain out..

 

[Carl_in_NH]

Restrictions don't seem to be much of an issue (within reason, of course), but weight or a large mass added to the cast iron manifold is and will cause it to crack. As long as you use a good quality flex section of pipe and mount the muffler so the weight isn't on the manifold you should be good to go.

 

[Speddmon]

There is already mufflers on the set, inside the air louvers. Yes the pipes are 1 1/4" NPT. Someone said that the laundry trailers have hoses on the exhaust pipes about 12 feet long, so as long as you keep the same size pipe or hose you should be fine.

 

[hedgehog69]

Does anyone have the oil and fuel filter #'s...and O-ring #'s... that I will need for my MEP 002a and MEP 003a? Napa filter #'s?

 

[DieselBob]

hedgehog69. these are the numbers I have for the MEP-003. Disclaimer!!! I have only used the oil filter from the list. My set came with brand new fuel & air filters from the military.



Oil Filter: NAPA 1004, Wix 202 C, Fram CH6PL, MS35802-2
NSN 2940-00-580-6304


Fuel Filter cartridge: NAPA 3113, Fram C1125PL
NSN 2910-00-287-1930


Fuel Strainer cartridge: Fram 35070
NSN 2910-00-222-2216


Air Filter cartridge: NAPA FIL 2222, Donaldson P10-1222,
FleetGuard AF437KM

 

[Gnoz]

My MEP 002A just stop producing electricity even though the engine was running fine. upon investigating the problem, I found out that the bridge is completely burned. Now my question is; what would cause the part to burn and where can I buy a use and new one? Thanks.

 

[cuad4u]

By "bridge" if you mean the bridge rectifier, just replace each diode with a 1N4007 (1 amp @ 1000V). They cost less than $0.05 each. Observe polarity. I have no idea what would cause it to burn up. Better find out "why".

 

[Gnoz]

By "bridge" if you mean the bridge rectifier, just replace each diode with a 1N4007 (1 amp @ 1000V). They cost less than $0.05 each. Observe polarity. I have no idea what would cause it to burn up. Better find out "why".

Thanks a whole lot. Would you by any chance know the type of resistor that I need for the bridge rectifier?

 

[Keith_J]

I use Viton o rings for fuel and oil filter housings, 236 on fuel, 244 for oil. 75 durometer. Sold in 5 packs for the larger, 10 packs for the smaller.

The originals are square profile, o rings work fine as the joint is confined, you need minimal force to seat them into the grooves once wet with oil or diesel.

 

[Gnoz]

I am having some issues with my Mep002a. I started it and it would run for about 20 minutes and dies each time. I bypassed the oil switch and that didn't solve the problem. I attempted to remove the temperature switch to inspect and clean it up and it broke off. So I jumped the wires and now the generator only runs for a couple of minutes before it dies. I am just trying to pinpoint the issue. Obviously, now I need to replace the temperature switch, but since jumpingthe wires did not solve the issue , I think I need to be looking elsewhere. Thank you