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Replacing HH o-rings

greg2560

New member
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Yoakum Texas
just replaced my hh o rings today.. It was not to bad of a job..Really easy.. Just takes some time...Got a few pics to show and maybe help some one else... Make sure the the red tooth is lined up with the pointer .. Like in the pic and the tm ( but mine in color) lol...By the way most of the pics where using a mirror so I could get a better shot.. I spun the motor in 5th gear by turning the output shaft of the tranny with the transfer case in neutral to line up the red tooth with the pointer. The hh head is not on a
worm drive like someone said but a true gear drive...Not like a distributor on a car...Look at the pics..
The only other thing I can say is make sure that the fuel cut of rod moves free and that you have that little clip seated in the grove on the cut off rod ...Oh and when you are putting the fuel cut off shaft back in that the flat on the end of it goes horizontal and the fuel shut off plate will be flush...should not see the oring.....Other pics... The pics is of the soft top that was going to be in the trash because of the stitching being rotted.. I was able to repair it using Chicago screws I am a cheap a@@.


Thanks For all the help


Greg
 

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kennys@wi.rr.com

Active member
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Waukesha, WI
You know I never knew I could overtighten those screws until the other day when I was working on mine. Thanks for the good quality pics to help people out as well.
 

peashooter

Well-known member
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Location
Hanover, minnesota
Did you replace the o-ring on the shaft as well? Or just the 2 under the head?
Yeah, I replaced the 2 under the head last year.... then learned about the other one on the shaft after the fact. I need to replace that eventually now as well. Thats one of the common spots that can allow diesel into the oil right?
 

Seth_O

Member
625
7
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Location
Sac CA
That was one of my issues. It's an easy check, just remove the fuel cut-off cover and turn on the in-tank pump. It will be readily apparent if you have a leak there. If no leak, I would just run it the way it is.
 

greg2560

New member
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Location
Yoakum Texas
I replaced all 3...The 2 under the hh did not look to bad one looked little funky..The one on the cut of leaver was hard..not a good thing if a oring is hard..Had Small drip on the cut off lever with the pump on in the tank..I am running 50/50 wmo. So it would leak more running the right fuel :)..
 

Seth_O

Member
625
7
18
Location
Sac CA
Also keep in mind that your in-tank pump (if stock) only puts out 5-6psi. Once the engine is running and the booster pump kicks in that jumps up to ~60psi. I.e. 10x the small drip you've got with the engine off, at least.....
 

Warthog

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OKC, OK
Don't throw away the top. I'll take it as a spare.:wink:

Good job on the orings[thumbzup]
 

Warthog

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Don't throw away the top. I'll take it as a spare.:wink:

Good job on the orings[thumbzup]
 

sandcobra164

Well-known member
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Location
Leesburg, GA
Only thing I could add to this is make sure you have the beveled side of the fuel shut off facing upwards. Don't know why I felt like it should be any other way. After what seemed like 20 minutes of getting the tip to line up in the head, I went to install the cover and was a "No Go". Disassembled, spent 15 more minutes getting the tip lined up and then could re-install the side cover. Excellent write-up on this topic. [thumbzup]
 

Squirt-Truck

Master Chief
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Location
Marietta, Georgia
Good information, but an I just getting old or are the pictures of the fuel control lever back-wards? Like reversed? THE fuel control rod should go to the right.

Someone please either clarify for me or tell me that is just the way it is..........
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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Location
Cincy Ohio
Good information, but an I just getting old or are the pictures of the fuel control lever back-wards? Like reversed? THE fuel control rod should go to the right.

Someone please either clarify for me or tell me that is just the way it is..........

He stated "pics are of a mirror" so you could see better. I have them "not in a mirror" if anyone needs them.
 

greg2560

New member
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Location
Yoakum Texas
It is hard to take good pics not useing a mirror with the pump on the truck. If you are going to do the job my two cents might just help..And if not some one smarter than me in the SS network of guys will be able to hekp out...If it was not for SS site I would have been lost ...Thanks A picture is worth a thousand wordsrofl
 

Bill W

Well-known member
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45
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Location
Brooks,Ga
To add to this thread
I just finished my o-ring (3) replacement on my head
I could not tell if I had the pin on the end of the shaft engaged into the plunger in the head so I went to the manual ( go figure ) which by the way is TM9-2910-226-34., If you remove the overflow valve ( see pic ) theres a port where you can look down through ( barely ) and see the plunger moving up and down when you rotate the shaft to which will confirm that you have the pin set in the groove of the plunger. By the way if you happen to loose that little pin, TNJ Murry has them ( $22 )
 

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