Replacing ignition system with new system.

[Fletcher76]

Hey y’all, I’m stumped on a wiring question and before I cut any wires I wanted to see if anyone has experience with this kit. I’m particularly confused on the ballast resistor and the coil hookup as well as where to get the ignition feed start and run.
I’ve already installed the distributor, coil, ecu, and ballast resistor. I connected the new harness that comes in the kit to the ecu and ran the black/yellow wire to negative side of coil, the pink/white and grey/black pigtail to the distributor. I made up two lengths of 14 gauge wire to reach to the resistor, and I’ve got the blue wire routed to hook up.
Also one more thing, this ballast resistor is a two prong.
Am I needing to join the ignition feed start (pink) to one side, and the ignition feed run (and if so would I just pull the connector out of the old two pin resistor and use the wires that were connected to the original resistor?
I apologize for the long post. I’ve been trying to figure this out for a week.

 

[NDT]

That kit is to convert 1960's vehicles to the 1970's "module" system which is stock on the M880. Not sure what you are trying to do.

 

[Fletcher76]

Yes, I realized that after I had already opened the box and installed the stuff up to the point where I am now. My old distributor was showing a bit of wear so I figured it needed replacing and I needed a spare ecu, ballast resistor and coil. I didn’t realize it was coming with a 2 post resistor.
Am I wrong thinking that maybe the original style 4 post resistor can be used and the original wiring be hooked up?

 

[NDT]

If all the plugs match up I would try that before cutting wires. The module connector looks identical.

 

[87cr250r]

When converting to electronic or breaker less ignition you are to remove the ballast resistor. The ballast resistor only exists to extend the life of the breaker points.

 

[msgjd]

I concur 100% with NDT, and you should stay with the 4-prong resistor and try the new kit as long as the resistor tests good.. I have had one side of them go bad, but never both sides at once.. Each side of the 4-prong resistor has a different resistance value, IIRC, thus important to respect where the wires go.. Some have a "one way" (polarized) plug, and some don't.. Do you have a service manual (or wiring diagram) for your truck?

One weird thing I experienced @1983 with a 1977 electronic ignition mopar was finding a condenser internally shorted to ground .. Of course, this was after replacing the resistor, coil, rotor, cap, wires, plugs, pickup sensor, cleaning/checking all connections and ign switch, and lastly the ECU, tediously one at a time trying to weed out a no-spark.. It has proved to be the only time in my life I ever had an ignition condenser short out, and of course the last thing I replaced. Who woulda thunk?

In the mid-late 80's I had several ECU's go bad (as well as other people) until concluding they didn't like the vibration and heat in their location.. This was also true for other period mopars that idled a lot, such as police cruisers, utility vans and bucket trucks.. The truck I had at the time sometimes did stationary "genny" work off the alternator, drilling holes in power poles and other expedient jobsite power.. I didn't have room for a "normal" jobsite genny and this was before battery drills.. BTW, when I moved the ECU out of the engine compartment, I didn't have any more trouble with it.. It was same fix the garages were doing for police and utilities. However, I have never had a problem with my M880's nor M890's ECU, still on the inner fender, (knocking on wood) but they don't sit idling more than a few minutes.

Anyway, as you mentioned, it's always good to have a spare ECU and resistor with you. Good luck

 

[WillWagner]

I have seen GM HEI components melded into Mopar electronic ign system. Lemme look.......

 

[WillWagner]

I have seen this remote mounted in a small aluminum box on a firewall or metal inner fender. And people do make bushings to rebuild a worn distributor.