"Rescued" M816 Wrecker

[Csm Davis]

That 2" ish hose is the low pressure suction from the tank to the pump. I'm relocating the tank on mine to the chassis how wcuhillbilly mentioned so only the high pressure lines will be run through the swivel. All of those are 1".

Hey bud i just thought of something else that might need looking into, the tank size. I think at the very least you need to put a driver's side tank over there if not bigger. Or are you literally going to be moving and modifying the stock hydraulics tank down there? The passenger tank would cause the fluid to get to hot because it doesn't have enough volume. The stock tank can get really hot already any smaller and it would probably start damaging things.

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[red]

Hey red nice Detroit laying in the floorboard. Would you like me to get some pictures of the mounting of the brake pedal and lines onthe 936?

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Yea the pics would be good. Save me the possibility of mounting the pedal in the wrong location and having to move it.

That detroit locker is destined for the middle axle after the airbrake conversion is complete. Roll the rear suspension/axles out from under the truck, install the locker and some new dog bones, then roll the assembly back under the truck and reconnect. Eventually I'm planning on a second detroit locker for the front axle since the truck has a air disconnect plumbed into the tcase, disabling the front axle until it's needed.

 

[MyothersanM1]

Do you have the treadle valve firewall mounting plate? It makes the install much easier and reinforces the firewall.


Mine came in the brake kit and I believe the kit was from SECO. http://www.secoaugusta.com/index.html

 

[red]

Hey bud i just thought of something else that might need looking into, the tank size. I think at the very least you need to put a driver's side tank over there if not bigger. Or are you literally going to be moving and modifying the stock hydraulics tank down there? The passenger tank would cause the fluid to get to hot because it doesn't have enough volume. The stock tank can get really hot already any smaller and it would probably start damaging things.

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Joe (wcuhillbilly) and I talked about the tank size. According to the TM the hydraulic tank is 60 gallons and the passenger side tank is 55 gallons while the driver side tank is 75 gallons. So using the passenger side tank loses about 5 gallons of capacity (potential heat problem like you mentioned). I've never had a heat issue with my stock setup but have never had to run the crane for long periods of time either.

2 ways to address that, different tank like you mentioned or install a oil cooler. Would come down to cost for me.

 

[red]

Do you have the treadle valve firewall mounting plate? It makes the install much easier and reinforces the firewall.
View attachment 672742View attachment 672743View attachment 672744

Mine came in the brake kit and I believe the kit was from SECO. http://www.secoaugusta.com/index.html

No I don't. Was planning to use some basic plate steel but if the price is right for the plate it would save the labor.

 

[Valence]

Joe (wcuhillbilly) and I talked about the tank size. According to the TM the hydraulic tank is 60 gallons and the passenger side tank is 55 gallons while the driver side tank is 75 gallons. So using the passenger side tank loses about 5 gallons of capacity (potential heat problem like you mentioned). I've never had a heat issue with my stock setup but have never had to run the crane for long periods of time either.

2 ways to address that, different tank like you mentioned or install a oil cooler. Would come down to cost for me.

What about using the driver's side tank for the hydraulic fluid and then fuel only in the 55 gal passenger? At your 5-6 MPG, that'd still be, about, a standard 300 mile range (if the fuel pickup goes very close to the bottom that is, hah).

 

[red]

Possible but I'd rather not use the stock 75 gallon fuel tank. I like the longer distance range it provides. I'd like to keep both fuel tanks for the 130 gallons total range (figuring my slightly over 6mpg, makes for almost 800 mile range) but moving the hydraulics to the chassis is a higher priority for me.


Will need to take some measurements after it stops raining/warms up but the stock hydraulic tank might fit in the location of the passenger side fuel tank. The storage box I added will have to be relocated as well. If (fingers crossed) the stock hydro tank will fit there then that would eliminate the fluid capacity/heat concerns for a pretty cheap cost. Close up a few fittings, relocate to different areas, and secure it down.

 

[wcuhillbilly]

Red, Just thought about it,,, but we may be able to find a big fuel/hydro tank laying in a junk yard from a semi... some of the 100 gallon round semi tanks have hydro tanks built into the rear portion. this would mean a change in mounting brackets but then again the tank may come with them... This would allow fuel and hydro on pass side.

I know my cross over valve is giving me fits and keeping the 75 gal tank will do me fine, thus I will move mine and be ok for now... if more hydro/ground spades etc is in the works for the future,,, I may find a poly wet kit tank and mount it in the spare tire gally under the headache rack...

PS. your hydro hoses look as old and bleached as mine.... I have a roll of old fire hose that Im planning on sleeving any hydro lines that I end up removing or disconnecting, keeps the sun from cracking them prematurely and helps with the abrasion.... Talk to a local fire department, chances are they have a scrap hose laying around that you can get cheap or free.... I use the 1.5 or 2" wildland hose, its softer and more flexible. lot cheaper than the pre made sleeves at the hydro shop.....

 

[Another Ahab]

Red, Just thought about it,,, but we may be able to find a big fuel/hydro tank laying in a junk yard from a semi... some of the 100 gallon round semi tanks have hydro tanks built into the rear portion.

Don't know if plastic is option you want to consider but U.S. Plastics has all kinds of tanks. Do you know about them?

https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/default.aspx?catid=838&parentcatid=-1​

 

[red]

Good idea using old fire hose. Yea the hoses are getting old. Usually I keep the cargo cover on the truck to protect everything from sun/weather but it is a pain in the ass to always set it up and tear it down every week. You can also see the 1 hose that is scuffed up badly from the tool box lid. Using the hose protectors would be a nice upgrade. The local fire station is right down the road from where I currently live, will swing by there and ask once the wrecker is mobile again (can't carry much on the motorcycle haha).

Problem with the fuel/hydraulic combination tank is usually the capacity on the civi trucks. Their hydraulic tank is normally about 20-30 gallons, enough for the lower volume pumps like the dump truck. Our crane pump moves so much fluid (anywhere from 3-5 times as much volume) that it's a problem.

I should find out this afternoon about the fitment of the stock hydraulic tank down in the passenger fuel tank location. If it fits there then that will eliminate the volume/heat concerns and it will be the most economical option.

Never seen a plastic tank used for a large volume of hydraulic oil like this, maybe just a manufacturing cost factor. I don't see any reason why a plastic tank couldn't be used.

Hadn't thought about it but moving the hydraulic oil down to the chassis is alot of weight dropped down and forward of the tandems. Helps out with lift towing counterweight issues and center of gravity. It's at least 400 lbs between the fluid and tank. Planning to make a skid plate for the tank when it gets down there since I do take this truck offroad.

 

[wcuhillbilly]

yeh, I didn't fully clarify on the semi tank, but my thought was to use the whole semi tank as a hydro tank or some form of the larger side of the tank as a hydro tank and the smaller (formerly hydro) side as a reserve fuel tank... would likely be aluminum..... Plastic tanks are very common on the semis and usually mount in the alcove behind the sleeper, sometimes behind the headache racks thus not very noticeable. last one I pulled for a wet kit on a buddys semi was around 40-50 gal, Muncie with a Chelsea PTO, lines, filter etc.... Tanks usually have mounting brackets and a steel plate that is already set up for the framerail width of our trucks... That's why I thought about the hole where the current spare tire resides.... OR,,,, a metal fuel tank from,,, Tractor supply,, the big rectangular ones for pickup beds.. bet that would fit in that hole...

And yes, moving the hydro tank down and forward for front weight and center of balance was another reason for my logic

 

[red]

Ah gotcha. That would work fine.

Went out to the wrecker today and got some measurements. Was going to work on the truck but so far it's been one of those days where everything has been difficult for no reason, so said screw it and taking it easy this afternoon instead.

Stock hydraulic tank is roughly 25 1/2"x 20"x 35 1/4".





Stock passenger side fuel tank space is roughly 46 1/2"x 21"x 26".





Which means that the tank will fit! With the hydraulic tank rolled onto it's side and slid into place it will leave about 11" of space between the tank and the metal mud flap. That is enough space to mount a spin on hydraulic filter (or relocate the stock filter) and work the plumbing. Will have to plug off most of the original ports and weld in some new ones.

 

[wcuhillbilly]

Im a bit rusty on my cubic inches/volume/cubic feet but 46.5x21x26 = 25,389.00 cubic inches(or such) on the fuel tank,,,
------------------------------------and ----------------------25.5 x 20x35.25 = 17,977.50 on the hydro tank,,,, which unless Im screwing up big time, the fuel tank would actually be bigger so to eliminate the need to relocate the existing hydro tank, just re bung the fuel tank........ I really need to sleep on this and find the correct fluid volume formula from my old algebra/practical engineering books.

On the filter.... I would certainly convert to a spin on with ball valve shut offs instead of that "sir leaks a lot" mil-spec...

 

[red]

The length measurement I posted is for the entire area of the passenger side fuel tank, not just the tank itself. From the metal mud flap over to the front of the tank. Subtract about 12" for just the tank.

 

[tobyS]

231 cubic inches per gallon So that's 109 gal compared to 77.

 

[red]

Just to clarify on the numbers. Per the TM the stock passenger side fuel tank is 55 gallons, stock hydraulic tank is 60 gallons.

Going off the measurements the stock hydraulic tank has the capacity for about 77 gallons.

The AREA of the stock passenger side fuel tank is large enough for a 109 gallon tank. That's the stock 55 gallon fuel tank, the tractor box I added, and the extra space in that area all combined.

I'm glad that the stock hydraulic tank will fit down where the passenger side fuel tank currently is, along with the valves and filter. That saves a couple hundred bucks.

List of currently known parts/steps for relocating the hydraulic pump:
1. Relocate hydraulic tank to the chassis (cost of some fittings and welding in new ports, less than $100)
2. Pump mounting bracket (about $40)
3. Hydraulic rotary manifold (including shipping I'm in to it for $200, rebuild kit is about $200 as well. Huge cost savings)
4. 1" hydraulic quick disconnects (normally these ones are $400 per set, not necessary for the conversion but for my future plans)
5. 1" 3000psi hoses ($10 per foot with NPT fittings)
6. 2" suction hose (stock one may be long enough)
7. New PTO shaft from power divider to pump (If I can use a tractor PTO shaft then $150 or less)
8. Adapter/seal housing from power divider to new PTO shaft (unknown)
9. Pair of 2" ball valves (about $90 for the pair)

 

[Csm Davis]

Ok lots of pictures under and over the wrecker bed.

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[Csm Davis]

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[Csm Davis]

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[Csm Davis]

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