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Restoring A 1943 M10 ammo trailer

redo or not

  • blast and paint, complete redo

    Votes: 19 82.6%
  • make road worthy and leave original finish

    Votes: 4 17.4%

  • Total voters
    23
  • Poll closed .

MWMULES

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I finally got my M10 ammo trailer home that Glen snagged from the crusher. Now the question I have is do I blast and repaint or leave it in the original patina, 011.jpgm10a.jpgrepack bearings replace the shot tires 010.jpgto make it road worthy. There are some other things I will do like remove the civi ball hitch 008.jpg and try and acquire fuse box, missing reflectors, tail lights and wiring. If this was your what would you do?
 

MWMULES

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And no I am not putting a lid and racks on it and using the tailgate hole as a fire box for a big ass smoker!:tinkerbell:
 

fuzzytoaster

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I'd go the restoration route to ensure it's protected from the elements and most problems you described are minor, it's also easy to prep and paint due to large flat surface areas.
 

NDT

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I would sand and paint. I have the tarp bows for those, also stacks of SF97's from the 1950's.
 

MWMULES

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NDT Pm or email me a picture of the bows please, I am looking for those.

so far 5 blast, 1 leave alone
 

Danger Ranger

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Ok, so I voted to keep it in original finish.

My thoughts on this are:

-clear coat it. Then you will have the original patina and it will last, at least for awhile.
-replace tires
-fix to original operating condition (lights, wiring, hitch, etc....)

I think it would be a really awesome display with a truck with a similar original patina finish. Ex: if one had an original finish od green deuce that would pull it....follow? I think it would be a shame to erase that wonderful original finish. Now if it was rust brown, and no longer solid, then sure, redo it. But it looks great now, with a lot of green still there and all the numbers visible.

Either way you go, it is a great looking trailer and should be a lot of fun.
 

maddawg308

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FYI - the fuze box on the M10 is the same as the one on the newer M332 ammo trailer. Might be relatively easy to find someone who has a M332 that would be willing to sell it to you...
 

zout

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I was really thinking totally re-makeover the trailer. Do not make it so "cherry" that you'll be chicken to take it anyplace but redone enough to where you can have some fun with it as well - big difference.

But - now that you brought up a BBQ roaster out of it !!!!!!!!!
 

MWMULES

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Yep maddawg308 I am hip to that and think I have a line on one, just waiting on shipping charges.
zout I did that with a M38A1 I restored years ago and was a temporary trailer queen for awhile till I realized it was no fun that way, it's the wife's now(she's happy and I am happy):)

13 to 3

Yep Mike going with some 900X20 take offs, not looking forward to breaking down the old combat rims but the tires are so old they have cloth belts so will be easier hack away from the wheels if it comes to that!
 
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maddawg308

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Also, the most common tire for that M10 trailer, if you are going for a 100% restoration, would be 8.25x20 truck road tread tires, NOT 9.00x20 NDTs. However, if you're just going to fix it up to use it for yourself, perhaps getting lightly used 9.00x20 NDT tires from a M35A2 truck owner, who is upgrading to super singles, that may be less authentic, but cheaper.
 

MWMULES

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update

Also, the most common tire for that M10 trailer, if you are going for a 100% restoration, would be 8.25x20 truck road tread tires, NOT 9.00x20 NDTs. However, if you're just going to fix it up to use it for yourself, perhaps getting lightly used 9.00x20 NDT tires from a M35A2 truck owner, who is upgrading to super singles, that may be less authentic, but cheaper.
If I had a 1/2 track and a sack full of $$$$ I would go with the 8.25, but opted for the time being for some 9.00 on M35 rims I had lying around.001.jpg002.jpgRemoving the armor lug nuts that had not be off in 40+ years was hard, had one on each side that would not come loose, took a 6' cheater pipe my 250lbs and Davey's 150lbs hanging to break them loose! For anybody that has never been around these armor lug nuts they are like the outer dual nut on a duce but weigh twice as much. BTW even in 1943 left side is left handed thread.
Also found out the brake cables are free and the brakes do hold.
Now to get a hot wrench to cut the metal out of the lunette ring so I can move it with out a trailer. 008.jpg003.jpgI am looking for 4 of the rail mounts and 2 rails if anybody has a line on some please let me know.
 

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jasonjc

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I gusses it depends on what you want to do with it. Do you want to show how it looked in WWII or how it looks after sitting for 70 years. I think a nice (not 20 coats of color sanded) paint job and new numbers and the like would do you proud. Plus that way in 70 more years it will still be around to show off.
 

MWMULES

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progress

Spent the first part of the morning over at gbooth's man cave using up a lot of his gas cleaning out the lunette ring, so I will now be able to tow it to the sand blaster. Needs a little time with a grinder to pretty it up and still need to break down the combat rims.
 

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Artillerydan

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Well this should probably go in the "trailer" section but thought it appropriate that I continued Dave's thread.

I bought this from Dave mid 2016. So here are the pictures of it coming together.

This was done using the TM 9 ordnance two part primer & Paint. Shade #8

Still need a correct pintle hook for the rear, the large data plate for the front, tailgate chains, and would like the original belly pan that went underneath attached to the frame.

M10 - 11504 - 017.jpgM10 - 11504 - 018.jpgM10 - 11504 - 024.jpgM10 - 11504 - 022.jpgM10 - 11504 - 025.jpgM10 - 11504 - 026.jpgM10 - 11504 - 028.jpgM10 - 11504 - 030.jpgM10 - 11504 - 031.jpgM10 - 11504 - 034.jpg
 
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Tinwoodsman

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I go the restoration route. This is typically appreciated by the collectors and the weekend lookers. All part of history. [thumbzup]
 
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