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Results from the tractor pull

ICSmoke

New member
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Pittsford, MI
Good job!! that was a guy screaming? wow hahah

Time to swap that clutch for a South Bend dual disk! bump the timing, change out the delivery valves and toss in some 5x.014 injectors..... along with a little larger turbo!

Keep pulling in low gear 2nd should do for not until you get some more power then run 3rd.

Ian
 

Croatan_Kid

Member
691
2
18
Location
New Bern, NC
I'm running a WH1C right now. I want to upgrade the compressor wheel and housing and have some injectors built, but I lack the neccessary funds to do so at the present time! As it is, I can hit 30lbs easy and pretty quickly with very little smoke, just a gray haze...just how I like it.

I need to make some spacers to get the front output away from the crossmember. It was rubbing it pretty bad during the pull.
 

Croatan_Kid

Member
691
2
18
Location
New Bern, NC
It'll have to be the 5th, they only run stock class on Friday nights. I'll try to make it down there!


I've already got a 3200 governor, Denny T fuel pin, turned the full power screw in about 2.5 turns, tuned the starwheel and low boost screws, piston stlye high-volume lift pump and added the WH1C with a blocked off wastegate and 4" exhaust/downpipe.


Who sells delivery valves for the VE pumps? Haven't really seen anybody with those.
 
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12vctd

New member
253
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Location
Junction City KS
Ahh forgot you have a VE then you need to get a 14mm head for that thing, and a good turbo, and a set of injectors, you can build a reliable 450-500 easy with a VE truck, But a 14mm head for your pump would require a A1000 fuel pump cause the clearances are so tight if it doesn't get a fresh flow of fuel then it will lock up. The hardest part of the old VE trucks is finding a good turbo setup to match the pump style, the VE's fuel super hard down low, but run out of steam up top. I love a VE pump, everyone wants P pumps but you can make a relaible cheap mod's and have a very strong truck. But to be honest you would really enjoy a good set of injectors and a turbo upgrade, your truck with those mods alone would be a diff animal.
 

Croatan_Kid

Member
691
2
18
Location
New Bern, NC
I wouldn't do a 14mm head. Too much money and I've heard of a lot of people having reliability problems with them. I DD this truck quite a bit, use it to haul whatever I need to, wheel it, and use it whenever I make it to a tractor pull.

I reckon the only other motor mods I'll be doing is advancing the timing, upgrading the turbo and getting some injectors built!
 

12vctd

New member
253
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0
Location
Junction City KS
well I understand your concern But I put over 150k miles on a 14mm head, and I pulled GN trailers constantly, truck pulled, drag raced, and it was a DD for work and at the time I drove 110 miles round trip. All thats needed for a 14mm pump to live is a good supply of fuel, good filtering and a good lube additive (I used Marvels mystery oil and Power service as I use in all my trucks.). Theres alot of people giving these pumps bad names but to each thier own. But the other mods will do just fine. And please dont take my little rant about the 14mm pump wrong, I have heard the stories myself, but most guys throw it on there and expect a tight clearenced pump to run with air leaks and other problems, Just not in the cards with it, but if you take care of it, it will take care of you, it was by far the best mod I did to my old girl well a tie with the twins. I will never P pump another 1st gen. Thats what i did to my previous 1st gens in the quest for power.
 

Croatan_Kid

Member
691
2
18
Location
New Bern, NC
Well it's not that I wouldn't do it, I just don't want to spend the money! Plus, I'm not going any farther than the injectors and some sort of turbo upgrade. That's about all I'll need for this truck. I'm going to build myself another Cummins powered Chevy and that one, well...it might go real fast :mrgreen:

I'm trying to figure out what to do for the turbo now.
 

12vctd

New member
253
0
0
Location
Junction City KS
WEll the compressor map depending on your injectors is very important, like i said the rotary VE pump pumps hard low and runs outta steam up in the higher RPM's, also of guys wanting a larger turbo use a cam thats helps with spooling, thats why a good twins setup is nice. But depending on your injector choice I had great luck with the 62/14 having a manual you dont want surging with your truck im sure. Pick your injectors and talk to somebody on the phone with industrial injection about the mods you have they will help steer you in a good direction. I used the 62/14 as my small turbo in my twins setup thats why i bought it. But I have installed and had good luck with the silver bullet 62/14 as well. If you dont go crazy on your injectors I would say a 62/12 would be really nice. even better with a water and meth injection as is will spool fast but wont keep your egts down as much but thats where the water injection helps. Kinda gives you the best of both worlds but with a manual truck but your light weight rig you should be able to run some good 5x.14's or 435's depending how people refer to them and a 62/14 and I think your power issues will be all smiles.
 

Croatan_Kid

Member
691
2
18
Location
New Bern, NC
Yeah, as it is with the 12cm housing on the WH1C, the EGTs can run a little hot. It's a good turbo all around really and I've had a few people tell me that I'd be good to go with just an HX35 and a 14cm housing, but an HX35 and WH1C are basically the same setup....so maybe just a 14cm housing for the WH1C?

The injectors I'll have built are going to be reworked stockers, EDM'd, honed and some other little tricks and maybe up the pop pressure a hair?
 

12vctd

New member
253
0
0
Location
Junction City KS
THE WH1C is not gonna support much more, due to after about 32psi is becomes a hair dryer making more heat than anything. HX35 is gonna give you 35 psi after that it warms up as well boosting egts. When you decide on your injectors that will tell you what turbo will be needed.
 
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