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Richmond, VA wounded deuce recovery

289
2
18
Location
Hampton, Virginia
Went up to Richmond this morning to pick up my first deuce. Two guys helped me out, one of whom was the driver of the truck/trailer we hauled it back on. I couldn't have done it without them. Thanks John and Sonny.

1. With new batteries installed, panel lights/headlights came on, but engine wouldn't start. Starter solenoid wouldn't even click. Removed starter button and jumpered across the contacts - nothing.
2. Torque rod was broken as advertised. Axles had separated enough for rear driveshaft spline coupling to separate. Come-alonged both axles together.
3. Pulling the truck up on the trailer, noticed the left middle axle wouldn't rotate. Right middle axle turned fine. Pulled cap and axle and wheel rotated fine. (Found the parking brake stuck when we got home, don't know if that was the problem, but it rolled great off the truck with the axle reinstalled).

I guess the first issue is find out why I'm not getting power to the starter. Cable inspections and schematic study is in my future. Once the truck runs, relocate it to the concrete pad behind the garage and start working on the suspension. Brake inspections, then fluid/filter changeouts w/ removing and cleaning oil pan/fuel tank.

Truck was advertised as 1971, data plate says 1966, not sure if that's good or bad. Troop seats in the back when I didn't think I had them, so that's a bonus.

Deuce and trailer were well within the GVWR of the truck, truck pulled and stopped with no issues whatsoever. The driver has been hauling vehicles for more than a couple of years, but this was his first MV.

Now to see if I can add some pictures, because "This thread is worthless without pics."
 

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powerhouseduece

Active member
1,440
4
38
Location
Pasadena, Md
Ahh.. there is nothing like a frosty brew after a long recovery!

My dads old deuce had the same issue when trying to start. It turns out the wire going from the starter switch to the starter was loose at a connector on the engine side of the firewall. Just first check if you have power going to the starter switch first. Good luck with the new truck!
 

BKubu

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,763
1,164
113
Location
Gaithersburg, MD
Beautiful truck and congrats on the recovery. With regard to which is better...a 1971 M35A2 or a 1966 M35A2...they will perform the same. However, your truck probably has a sprag instead of an air-shift front-axle. The sprag is just as good. It is possible that your truck was upgraded to an air-shift, though. Look for the lever below the gauges on the dash. One sure sign that a truck is one of the older trucks...the low headlights and electric horn. Again, nothing wrong with this...just a sign that the truck is pre-1967 (I believe...sure wish David Doyle were still on this site to confirm these facts).
 
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clinto

Moderator, wonderful human being & practicing Deuc
Staff member
Administrator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
12,596
1,132
113
Location
Athens, Ga.
For the wiring, do a search for "Peter Bog's Sece schematic".

I LOVE your friend's Dodge. If it's a stick, it's pretty much perfect. :D
 

DUG

Senior Chief/Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,799
73
48
Location
Mesquite, NV
The white truck looks like she's loaded down pretty good. Everything ride ok?
 

usmc320

Member
106
0
16
Location
RVA
Congrats on the truck. Richmond is a great site to deal with. They are very friendly and helpful.
 
289
2
18
Location
Hampton, Virginia
Got my deuce fired up this morning, within 15 minutes of going outside. Cycled on/off switch, start button while taking continuity readings, no issues. Hooked up batteries, heard the low air buzzer, turned master switch off, finished hooking up batteries. Checked for hydrostatic lock (thanks for the warning, guys) then fired it up. I had pulled the fuse last night for the in-tank fuel pump, going to put the right size in it, so it took about 8-10 seconds to start. Relocated the truck onto the concrete pad behind my garage, had to use the front wheel drive axle (shifted smoothly when I threw the switch) because the rear axle was disconnected and middle axle was just spinning in the mud. Light check was sat, all lights/turn signals working. Time to get working on the torque rod replacement, then oil/filter change, replace right rear brake line that was damaged at the GL site. Nothing too hard, hopefully.
Thanks to all for all the great information I've gotten lurking on the board, reading the TM's, asking questions, this is without a doubt the best MV group on the internet.
 

stumps

Active member
1,700
12
38
Location
Maryland
Yes indeed! It's great that it is going.

By all means check out Warthog's method for replacing the torque rod. He found a way of making an *itchy job pretty easy. Be sure to give all of the bolts and nuts a good dousing with PB Blaster, or Kroil, or ...??? an hour or so before you try to remove them.... it'll go much easier.

-Chuck
 

Lorax

New member
207
0
0
Location
Hampton Virginia
Howdy ODI. Glad to hear you got the deuce home. You had to wait long enough on the EUC. Sounds like she's an air shift too, since you threw the switch under the dash to move her to the concrete pad.

Be sure to bring her to the next war museum show next sept/oct. There's going to be a LOT of MVs there next year.
 

peecook

New member
342
1
0
Location
Richmond VA
Howdy ODI. Glad to hear you got the deuce home. You had to wait long enough on the EUC. Sounds like she's an air shift too, since you threw the switch under the dash to move her to the concrete pad.

Be sure to bring her to the next war museum show next sept/oct. There's going to be a LOT of MVs there next year.

or the next Mt Trashmore get together. Hopefully we can do something in the spring again.
 
289
2
18
Location
Hampton, Virginia
Let me know when the next get together is. As you can tell by the avatar, I've got plates now, and I took the truck for its first highway spin today, over to the St. George Brewing Co. and back. 50 mph @ 2200 rpm, but the temperature never got above 165. I'm not sure if it would run better if it ran a little hotter (closer to the normal 185F), but I'd rather it run a little cooler than overheat, that's for sure. My goal for February is to get the horn button replaced, and get it painted in time for St. Patrick's Day parade in March.

See you around.
 
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