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Rod bearings, failure mode

spicergear

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If you can catch a bearing going away early enough it may not have hurt the crank. If not...that's a bit more work.

Engine rule of thumb is 10psi oil pressure for every thousand rpm. 10 @ 1,000- 20 @ 2,000 etc. I know when my CAT gets to operating temps the oil pressure at idle will go down to around 20psi. Touch the accelerator pedal and it ramps up to 50 or 60psi quick.
 

tm america

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merrillville in
question is are you planning on fixing that motor or changing it when it finally lets go if :roll:if you're gonna fix it do it now if it.s to the point of knocking it is probably beating the crank up already as long as you said it has been doing it you are possibly to the point you wont be able to fix it in the truck. since the crank will have to be reground and oversized bearing will need to be used and if you let it go much longer it wil spin the bearing if it hasnt already. then if you are lucky it will just cause it to lock up till it cools down worst case is a big inspection hole in the side of the block a big tow bill and epa fee for the tow truck company cleaning up 22qts of oil from the road:roll:since oil pressure is low i'd swap the engine or have gone through since the wear isnt gonna be just in one place
 

dmetalmiki

Well-known member
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Knocking

You no watt cranetruck...My M62 knocks and has done since I got it 3 years ago! and it had a low mileage recon engine in it. My 5ton cargo..KNOCKS! my other 5ton knocks!! now heres a thing..My deuces (3) DONT! so.I had gotten to thinking 5ton engines HAVE a "chractaristic" sound?(knock?). I WAS going to pull the sump on the M62..but i'll be jiggered if I'm gonna pull all my 5tons. Yes I know watt peeps gonna say.. but I have to say I aint heard a quet (as the deuce) engine in ANY 5ton Ive listend to here! Oh..but as a P.s. They do ALL have GOOD oil pressures around 55-60 ilbs. I wud try a stethascope on your engine if you feel there iz summat wrong tho ,,(and) how bout you open the injector lines one by one to see if the knock jiggers off! on (the) one cyl? good luck.
 

dmetalmiki

Well-known member
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Knock

P.P.S. My M62 has an engine prelube..(so) runs up to about 15psi before I hit the start button. So it aint lack of startup lube thro the (dreaded) filters on my engines.
 

kaiser2help

Member
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Location
East Freetown, MA
My 5 ton multi- fueler knocks a little at start up. And it sounds like it is at crank speed. This forum is like taking a C.P.R class. After you are done you think you're going to have a heart attack or have brain failure. Needless to say, I will be lowering my oil pan. good info post.
 

Warthog

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So can Rod Bearings for a Deuce be picked up at the local auto parts store? If not , can anyone tell me where to get them?

Thanks
From Marty at Memphis Equipment:

For the LDT-465-1C

Mains bearings standard - $332.59
Rod bearings standard - $24.44 each
Oil Pump - $263.45 (no rebuild kit or individual parts)
Oil pump Idler bearing - $93.85

Plus shipping of course
 
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jesse poundstone

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lakeville ,mn
fiy the knock will be just as prevelant with the cylinder cut out, cut out tests are used to determine missfiring cylinders and low compresssion or weak cylinders by the fuel usage needed to maintain that specific rpm measured in mm3 also used to check the wiring to each injector. be very careful not to have your hands by the injector lines if you crack them open when running high pressure fuel can easily penetrait skin and people have lost limbs due to that use caution
 

m16ty

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I've seen a bunch of people try and run knocking engines for an extended period with the same results. Either the engine locks up ( ruining most if not all of the rods and destroying the block journals) or putting a window in the block. When a rod is knocking it puts a tremendous strain on the rod bolts. When a knock is noticed you really need to shut the engine down and not run it untill the problem is found to reduce damage. When just one bearing spins it sends metal down the line and will take out the other bearings and the bearing surfaces.
 

nap159

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Location
welch, mn
i have had good luck just putting a new bearing in. not a good fix, but enough to keep it going. if it is the main bearing you can grind down a machine screw to just a little thinner than the main bearing, insert it into the oil hole and turn the crankshaft. the bearing will rotate until you can remove it. put the new one in and rotate the crank the other way to re-insert it. this will not fix the crank, but you can get a little more hours out of it.
 

Keith_J

Well-known member
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Location
Schertz TX
I hate is when my oil gets Coked. I prefer Pepsi. Sorry boss just messing with you.
Always something from the peanut gallery :roll:; Would you laugh if I said such temperatures (over 400F) will "Whitney Houston" the oil?:p.Wait, cracking oil breaks it down while coking is thermal polymerization:idea:

In all fairness, most LD/S engines I have seen are quite clean. Compared to the last diesel engine I overhauled :-(. At only 165k miles, the oil mist control system was completely coked with carbon. As I had to wait for parts, I made sure everything was perfectly clean. I ended up with a few gallons of kerosene-sludge. Thankfully these LD/S multifuels don't have exhaust gas recirculation.
 

cranetruck

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Would be nice to have a sound spectrum analyzer so that the exact details of the noise could be displayed on a printout....

You guys really know how to make a man feel guilty about doing nothing. :)
 

Recovry4x4

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Bjorn, if you are getting ready to fix the crane truck, send me a PM. I have an engine somewhat nearby to you!.
 

cranetruck

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Thank you Kenny, I'll keep that in mind. Would need a separate power source to run the crane if it were to be used to swap the engines...perhaps an electrically powered hydraulic pump...
 

kaiser2help

Member
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18
Location
East Freetown, MA
Sorry to beat a dead deuce,I mean horse. Is there any difference between a cold startup knock apposed to a warm engine knock. Perhaps these multi fuels knock on cold startup and then heat and expansion make them silent. just trying to avoid messing with an old engine if I dont have to. Thanks.
 
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