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RPM noise through vic-1/h-161 headsets.

alphaseventwo

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Chesterton Indiana
I have recently developed quite the rpm "whirring" noise through the headsets of my vic-1 setup. Its a high pitched noise that follows the rpms of the engine, like old AM radios used to do. Pretty annoying to have that drilling sound in your head while driving. I have the aftermarket grounding harness installed, and went back to check contact points, ect. Any insight much appreciated friends.
 

Action

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I remember that from when guys in high school had ground issues. It made that noise in the speakers. It got louder with more throttle.
 

Dock Rocker

Active member
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Jackson ms
Definitely start with the grounds. If you want you can make up a short term ground to go directly to the ground lug on the block and use that instead of what it’s grounded to and go for a test drive. If you don’t have he noise after going to the block for a ground you know what your problem is.

If that doesn’t clean it up then it’s going to get fun.
 

alphaseventwo

Member
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Location
Chesterton Indiana
Definitely start with the grounds. If you want you can make up a short term ground to go directly to the ground lug on the block and use that instead of what it’s grounded to and go for a test drive. If you don’t have he noise after going to the block for a ground you know what your problem is.

If that doesn’t clean it up then it’s going to get fun.
I have the vic 1 power running straight into the battery(ies). Where would you put another ground on the vic unit? Should I find a power conditioner setup similar to the one used on a sincgars radio tray? If so, anybody have nsn or part info for one? thanks again.
 

papakb

Well-known member
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What you need for this is a noise filter on your input power line. The cost for the filter will depend on how much current you plan on drawing through the eleectronics. You will need more than a simple ferrite that clamps onto the wiring, your going to need something that the device current actually passes through.

Kurt
KG6KMJ
 

Farmitall

Well-known member
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What you are hearing is "alternator whine", it is AC voltage being passed by the alternator due to a bad diode in the alternator. The alternator is not putting out a steady state DC, there is an AC ripple voltage being imposed on it. If you look at the wave form on an oscilloscope you would see exactly what it is.

The fix is repairing the alternator diode pack or, placing a choke in series of each leg of the power feed and two capacitors shunted across those leads. Its called a pi filter. Look it up.

The capacitors will redirect the AC ripple voltage to ground. The series chokes impede the AC flow and stop it from entering the electronics of whate ever is connected to the battery terminals.

Ferrite beads are for common mode RF and do little to remedy direct AC ripple voltages present on DC line feeds. That AC must be directly shunted to ground via a capacitor.

The series choke must be capable of handling the total current draw of the device you are using. That means it must be wound with sufficient size wire to accommodate the amperage being drawn by the device it is filtering for.

If you are handy, you can wind your own chokes on ferrite beads, then solder two capacitors across those chokes and build yourself a pi filter.

Send me a PM with your address and I'll send you the components for mailing fees.

Pi-filter.jpg This is a pi filter. It can be modified and improved by adding another L(series inductor/choke) in the ground leg.
 
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mechanicjim

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Location
Chicago il
Farmitall is on the right path, its common on Fire trucks for their radios to get noise from alternator AC ripple (generally the radio it self doesn't have enough input protection and picks up this electrical noise).
what size Alternator do you have?
If you have a digital multi-meter set it to AC volts while the vehicle is running and check at alternator B+ terminal for AC voltage. Generally anything over 1volt AC is bad.
If you have a Niehoff they have filters that they sell for Fire Apparatus such as this one http://www.ceniehoff.com/Documents/Ctrl_Hyperlink/II164C_uid12182014232332.pdf.
 

alphaseventwo

Member
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Location
Chesterton Indiana
I do not know. Testing for this would be a little above my pay grade, lol. But I'd be willing to try if someone wanted to walk me through it, or is this just a specification of the vic-1 unit that I could look up?
 

Farmitall

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
Eubank, KY
I do not know. Testing for this would be a little above my pay grade, lol. But I'd be willing to try if someone wanted to walk me through it, or is this just a specification of the vic-1 unit that I could look up?
You might be able to look it up if there is a spec sheet on the unit available. If there is a fuse at the battery terminal hook up(which there should be) open it and see what size fuse it is.

Just a note of caution: Any device that is hooked up directly at a battery in any vehicle should have a fuse or some kind of circuit breaker immediately off the + terminal to prevent a fire in case of a short circuit to ground along the positive wire's path to the equipment. ALWAYS FUSE AT THE BATTERY.

Another general indication is the size of the power leads, if its more than a 15 amp (15 amp power leads are usually #14ga) the wire would be large, like #12ga or #10ga. I wouldn't think that a simple audio amplifier intercom system would draw in excess of 15 amps, that's a LOT OF AUDIO POWER!!
 
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