• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Running problem with 4 cylinder White on MEP-004A MEP0013A Generator

goldneagle

Well-known member
4,510
1,007
113
Location
Slidell, LA
I am having problems with my generator. It was running for 7 hours straight before it started to slow down and then shut off. Each time I restarted the gen it would run about 2 minutes and then slow down and then shut down.

Today i replaced the fuel filters. It is still doing the same thing! I looked at the throttle control on the IP and it was still wide open position when it slowed down and shut off.

Can anyone tell me what to look for or do next? aua
 

Westech

CPL
6,104
208
63
Location
cow farts, Wisconsin
fuel pump? cracked fuel lines? I have seen where the tank has a bunch of junk in it and it will run till it sucks up a bunch of stuff in the pick up tube and then stalls... after the engine stalls the junk falls off the pick up and it will start and run again for a few.

We just replaced a Gator engine because of that... well I did not a different team did... and sure enough it did the same thing... I cam over and pulled the gas cap and looked in the tank... looked like a trash can. there were bottle caps.. cig butts... think someone was not happy with said owner of gator.
 

timntrucks

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,038
119
63
Location
Ponchatoula LA
these mil gens have a bunch of filters. where is a good source for them. i hate that GE is having trouble with his gen. its a very nice set up with a extra large fuel tank
 

goldneagle

Well-known member
4,510
1,007
113
Location
Slidell, LA
these mil gens have a bunch of filters. where is a good source for them. i hate that GE is having trouble with his gen. its a very nice set up with a extra large fuel tank
NAPA had mine in stock. I bought 2 sets -so I have spares.

It would be great if you could come by when you have time and we can work on it together.
 

goldneagle

Well-known member
4,510
1,007
113
Location
Slidell, LA
fuel pump? cracked fuel lines? I have seen where the tank has a bunch of junk in it and it will run till it sucks up a bunch of stuff in the pick up tube and then stalls... after the engine stalls the junk falls off the pick up and it will start and run again for a few. /QUOTE]

I will try the generator with an external fuel source to see if it will run longer.
 

Isaac-1

Well-known member
1,970
50
48
Location
SW, Louisiana
Check the return fuel line fitting for flow while it runs. I think these have Stanadyne DB series injection pumps, which are prone to shutdown like this if the return fitting gets clogged up inside the injection pump (line that comes out of the top front of the pump).

Ike
 

goldneagle

Well-known member
4,510
1,007
113
Location
Slidell, LA
Check the return fuel line fitting for flow while it runs. I think these have Stanadyne DB series injection pumps, which are prone to shutdown like this if the return fitting gets clogged up inside the injection pump (line that comes out of the top front of the pump).

Ike
I loosened up the connection to the return tube and saw diesel come out. When I let the engine run the diesel was flowing through the partly loose connection. I did not try to remove the T itself. Did I check it right? Still not working right!
 

leedawg

Member
270
10
18
Location
Napa / CA
No remove the T itself. There is a ball check valve in the bottom of it the fitting that is actually screwed into the top of the injection pump. This gets clogged up and causes the symptoms you are describing. Clean it out real well and try again.
 

goldneagle

Well-known member
4,510
1,007
113
Location
Slidell, LA
No remove the T itself. There is a ball check valve in the bottom of it the fitting that is actually screwed into the top of the injection pump. This gets clogged up and causes the symptoms you are describing. Clean it out real well and try again.
Thank you for taking the time to explain the proper procedure. I'm no mechanic so every bit of info helps a lot! I will give it a try tomorrow.

Also: The water separator filter is missing the cartridge inside. No one has come up with the proper part number yet. I was thinking of replacing the 2 filter combo with a wix primary water separator filter. It is rated 10 GPH. Is that large enough to feed this 4 cylinder engine rated 44HP.
 

leedawg

Member
270
10
18
Location
Napa / CA
Thank you for taking the time to explain the proper procedure. I'm no mechanic so every bit of info helps a lot! I will give it a try tomorrow.

Also: The water separator filter is missing the cartridge inside. No one has come up with the proper part number yet. I was thinking of replacing the 2 filter combo with a wix primary water separator filter. It is rated 10 GPH. Is that large enough to feed this 4 cylinder engine rated 44HP.
honestly that is what I would probably due given your scenario. Those water separator things area super PITA to find and when you do they are crazy expensive. Guess depends if your going for an accurate restoration of the machine or just want it to run....
 

goldneagle

Well-known member
4,510
1,007
113
Location
Slidell, LA
honestly that is what I would probably due given your scenario. Those water separator things area super PITA to find and when you do they are crazy expensive. Guess depends if your going for an accurate restoration of the machine or just want it to run....
The generator is already bastardized! It is a Military Engine running a 42KW Civi Generator head. I just want a reliable generator not a restoration.

I have the 10GPH filter already. Got it cheap on Ebay a couple of years back, but never used it.

I just need to know if it's large enough flow rate to run the generator properly before i install it.
 

leedawg

Member
270
10
18
Location
Napa / CA
well the six cyl only burns 2.5 gallons per hour so id imagine the 4cyl is even less than that so id say 10 gph fuel filter is plenty of flow to keep the motor running. ID slap that on there and call it a day.
 

goldneagle

Well-known member
4,510
1,007
113
Location
Slidell, LA
Today I went out and took apart the return line connection over the IP. I then removed the T and then the check valve. It was a bit dirty so I cleaned it out and reinstalled it along with the other fittings. Tested the system and go the same results!

I also tried to use an outside fuel source but it didn't work!

I then proceeded to removing the primary water separator filter assembly that feeds the day tank. After swapping fuel lines I installed the replacement spin-on fuel filter/water separator and tested the system. It still runs for about 1 minute at full speed then started to slow down. It then stopped as it did before.

Looks like I still need help....
 

goldneagle

Well-known member
4,510
1,007
113
Location
Slidell, LA
OK I decided to tackle the problem myself. I took the check valve off the IP again and found it was clogged. Put the T back on the return line and left it off the IP. The generator ran fine without shutting down. I figured the system got flushed out since i left the top of the IP return line port open. Reassembled the T and check valve (after cleaning the check valve) and reconnected the return fuel lines. The generator ran for 7 minutes and then did the slow down/shut down routine.

Took it apart again and found it clogged. Decided to run the generator with the port open again to flush the debris. Same thing again!

I decided to separate the IP return line from the injector return line and eliminate the check valve.

Since the fuel tank has multiple return ports I disconnected the one for the exterior fuel feed. I installed a compression L on top of the IP and ran a copper 1/4" line from it. I inserted the 1/4" copper tubing into a 1/4" air hose and clamped it. I put a barbed fitting at the other end of the hose and inserted it into the return port hose.

I reinstalled the T with the check valve still attached to the return fuel line. I restarted the engine and watched the IP. The check valves leaks a little but I have a pan under it. I ran the engine like that for 30 minutes without any problems.

No the question is: How do i clean out the IP so it stops clogging the check valve? I would like to reattach the line like original once the debris issue is resolved. I was hoping someone could tell me a procedure for cleaning the IP (for beginners) without risking damage to the IP.

Any other suggestions are welcome. [thumbzup]
 

jbk

Member
404
5
16
Location
livingston la.
gut the check valve remove the ball, it will run fine without it mine did the same thing. my pump was pretty bad on the inside but runing clean fuel through it for a few hours cleaned it up on the inside.
 
Top