rust neutralizers? Am I in fantasyland here?

[dma251]

Has anyone ever heard of a product that can be sprayed on over MINOR surface rust prior to paint or primer that will neutralize the rust and prevent it from growing under the paint?

I think I have seen some product like this - but I can't remember what it was called. Seems like it sprayed on from a can, and turned the rust spots black and left the rest clear.

How does red-ox stick to it?

Thanks, guys.

 

[littlebob]

I bought some stuff while worling on mine. I rember seeing Marhyde on the lable, but the dog finished it off. I let you know how it works out in about five years
littlebob

 

[jasonjc]

There are alot of product like that. Rust-o-lum make one that is also a primer. spray it on then paint over it.

 

[dma251]

do they work okay?

 

[jasonjc]

I'm not shure yet I'll let you know in 5-10 years

 

[poppop]

I have used a product call Rust Converter for years and have been pleased with it. You just wire brush the loose rust and apply it. Where rust is present it reacts with it and turns black. You can use it as a primer and paint directly over it. It will not react on clean metal or painted surfaces and these must be washed free of the material before appling paint. I have heard of some tractor restorers that sandblast and then allow the metal to flash rust and then prime with this materal as it makes a very durable primer.

 

[clinto]

Ospho?

 

[rdixiemiller]

The rust converters taks iron oxide (red rust) and convert them to iron phosphate (blue/black/grey)by replacing the oxygen atoms with phosphorous atoms. Iron phosphate conversion coatings are used in many paint shop pretreatment systems (mine at work included).
Most of the rust converters use phosphoric acid in some combination with surfactents (soaps) to allow the stuff to penentrate the rust and work all the way down to the unrusted layers of metal. I have used Ospho for years with good results. Properly used, they will greatly reduce the chance of rust returning after you prime and paint. They are not cure alls however, loose scaley rust must be removed before use. If you use a wire brush on a grinder to knock off the top layer of rust, the converters will do a great job of killing the rust in the pits in the metal that would normally start bubbling back through the paint in a year or two.
Just my 2 cents worth, but backed with years of experience. I still use Ospho when I am spot painting rusty areas.

 

[dma251]

Is it available in quarts or gallons for use with a spray gun?

 

[dma251]

Never mind - I just found it on the web. Sounds like pretty good stuff. I don't have much rust at all. Just some real minor surface rust where the side cabinets used to be mounted up on my HEMTT. The issue is just that I don't really think its nearly bad enough to merit going to the trouble and expense of sandblasting the entire frame/rear half of the truck to get it ready for paint.

My HEMTT has only had the one coat of carc on it. For me that's a blessing. That original finish is still in good enough shape to look good with just a fresh coat of paint. I just didn't want to paint over the rust, however.

I'll get a couple gallons and spray the entire rig before I shoot the new paint this fall.

 

[gimpyrobb]

DMA, do you have a link to the info you found? I too am getting ready to do some rust preventative stuff.

 

[steelsoldiers]

I too vote for Ospho! I have also heard some good reports on Rust Bullet.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Rust Bullet is what I have been leaning towards, but it doesn't hurt to look into all my options.

 

[dma251]

http://www.ospho.com/

 

[dma251]

I'm not really looking for a heavy coating like Rust Bullet, or POR 15. I don't want to add to the layers of coating build-up on airlines, hydraulic lines, wiring, etc. The paint I'm applying is enough already. That is what always seems to flake off first. Besides - it gets harder to get a wrench on fastners after all that coating gets on there.

 

[butch atkins]

rust killer

used a product called EXTEND in 96 when i painted my truck,worked really well,in the directions it said to wait at least 24 hrs before painting over it,ihad hung the doors to the truck on a swing set,brushed on the EXTEND ,AND SINCE THEY WERE IN DIRECT SUNLIGHT AND IT WAS 95 DEGREES AND IT DRIED REALLY FAST,what a dummy ipainted over it ,much to my surprise the next morning my fresh paint had bubbled up during the night,moral of the story ,read the directions and allow plenty of drying time because this is a chemical process ,and all of these different rust kill products work the same way,BTW the paint is still on the places where i used the product,unlike some of the other places i shouldhave used it on ,just got 12 spray bombsand 4 gallons of 24087 semi gloss od from rapco inc friday ,MY GMC IS GETTING A NEW COAT OF PAINT SOON,and i will use therest of the gallon of EXTEND on my truck,and yes it still works after all this time cause i used it this spring when i repainted my 1968 sears suburban lawn tractor ,it had a few rust spots ,nothing major,and i waited 2 days before painting over the EXTEND,just my experience with this product ,good luck with your project

 

[oifvet]

RE: rust killer

"Extend" is NAPA's call-sign for this product. At least it used to be. It seems like the last time I was in the store, they knew exactly what I was looking for, but there might have been a different name on the lable. Regardless, a good NAPA counter-person should be able to help if you just ask for, "Extend." It does come in cans for brush application as well as aerosol cans. Brush on seems to be a heavier way to apply than necessary. Especially the first application (after the heavy, flaky stuff is brushed and scraped away). I like to get the area as close to bare metal as possible. The Extend will attack the rust AND the bare metal almost equally. Good overlap. Metals are going to corrode as long as the sun rises and sets. There is nothing that will stop it completely. But these products seem to slow the process down quite a bit. My opinion: I like the stuff. It's fun to watch, too. Makes me feel like I'm killing little rust guerrillas. "Rust Cong!" If you check in the spray-paint aisle of the local auto parts stores, you'll find some other knock-off brands that work probably just as well. Be patient and follow the directions that tell you how long to let it work. Let it dry well, and try not to go too heavy right off. Then follow other SS advice on the better primers and paints.

************************************************************************

NAPA Item #765-1232 "Permatex Rust Treatment" I don't see the word "Extend" on this 16 fl. oz. bottle anywhere, but that's the stuff. I also found an aerosol can of "Rust Fix" by Dupli-Color. The label says, "Turns rust... To black primer." That is the handy-man version, but I'm sure it all comes from the same vat.

 

[Bill W]

RE: rust killer

"Kleen Strip" Phosphoric "Prep & Etch" is what I've used since I can't find Ospho locally here in Georgia. Prep & Etch is the same stuff only different manafacturer. I got it either at Lowes or Home Depot ( can't remember which ) you'll find it over where they keep the paint thinners.

 

[Armada]

RE: rust killer

Rust Mort by SEM. Quart and gallon size. Phosphoric base.

 

[Swimallday]

Undercarriage rust prevention?

Is there a good material to use to prevent rust developing in the channeling, floorboards, & undercarriage? I just bought an M38A1 in very good condition, rust-wise. Since I live in NJ, where they use copious amounts of salt in the winter and they say the salt can take out a jeep undercarriage in a couple of seasons, I want to prevent it with a good undercarriage dubbing. I don't intend to use it in sloppy conditions, but it'll still be outdoors a lot. Any suggestions from the vets for a fng?? Many thanks!