Rust protection M1009 - Rhino/spray liner a good idea or bad?

[nyvram]

I've read numerous threads on here but they've resulted in more confusion than clarity. Here are some questions:

1. Does brand matter? Vehicle is tan at the moment so we're thinking of a basic black liner for the interior.

2. Will this help PREVENT further rust from leaky hard top on the interior? ..or will this encourage rust because we can no longer see the bare metal?

3. As a follow on to #2, it seems prudent to remove any rusted areas/sand any rust spots prior to application, correct? Would a professional shop typically do this as part of the job or would they simply spray right over any areas of concern?

4. Would you do the undercoating the same way and at the same time?

I am trying to understand if this is an options others have pursued to help inhibit rust or if it just makes things worse.

I know we can buy rattle can kits and DIY but I've heard having it done professionally makes a big difference.

Any thoughts or experirences (or nightmares?) anyone would care to share?

 

[glaser06]

I've done the U-POL Raptor kit on ebay for like $120 with great results. It doesn't go on real thick the first time, I'd def recommend two coats. Plus it comes in clear (tintable to the color of your choice) or black (I used as a bed liner and on the cab a a couple jeeps). Treat all the rust first, wire brush what you can, phosphoric acid (ospho, naval jelly, etc.) the rest. Scuff everything with scotchbrite (green or red), wipe down with windex (the stuff with ammonia in it, not the safe crap). Mask off areas not to be sprayed, wipe down to-be painted areas again with windex and go to town. I did the bed of my truck in an afternoon, the jeep tubs took about 6 hours with all the pieces to be removed and masked off.

Will help prevent rust as long as the coating is intact. If you haul engine blocks in the bed and they roll around because you drive like a maniac, the coating will chip.

ASK ME HOW I KNOW>>>>

 

[glaser06]

Also, the DIY stuff tends to dry harder, more like a paint. The professional stuff stays a little softer like rubber (and probably dampens sound better).

 

[cucvrus]

OK I said it before and I will say it again. If you like spending time scrapping and grinding do the do it yourself liner. If you want something that lasts long but costs money. Do the Line X. I have it in several CUCV's I have done the do it your self liner. It will get scratches that you can noyt see and you will have blisters under the liner that you can not see. I have spend easily a hundred plus hours stripping the inside out of my own M1009 that I applied the roller in Dura back to and it lasted 3 years and I had holes the size of a softball at places. Never again. Pay the money now and just let the water leak in and don't worry about it. I have it in a truck cab for 10 years and it is dirty looking because I don't wash it. I just sweep it out and blow it out with air. But it is in fine shape and no wear were your heel rides. . I had a customer pay me to remove some other off the wall liner from a truck cab. He now has Line X and is happy. I am not a dealer and get no royalties for this. I just swear by it and it lasts and holds up. Another thing that holds up well is a couple coats of CARC paint on the floor. I sprayed my Mule in 2010 and it still has not wear thru at critical wear areas. Noise reduction maybe a little. These are never going to be quiet. They were not built in this day and age. These are trucks with real men in mind. Not pleasure cruisers. My Mule is my Harley. Did you ever hear a quiet Harley? Who want's to? Just maintain and drive them. They are dinosaurs from a day gone by. But I still like them. Shake, rattle and roll. Get a car if you want quiet and comfort. My opinion.

 

[Hasdrubal]

I used the color your hippo tintable liner kit, so its green. It sprays on with a Schutz gun. Cleaned any rust spots, de-greased, scuffed with scotchbrite pads, then masked area off. Goes on thick, put 2 coats on, tuff stuff. As good as any commercial application. No problems coming out from under after 11 years. Its all in the prep.

 

[nyvram]

Linex over rhino? I don't care about noise reduction.. Only care about retarding rust and not having to worry about the water that always gets into the vehicle when it rains.

 

[NovacaineFix]

I am like glaser06, I have used the Raptor kit with good results. 2 or more coats will make it very nice.

Plain and simple, ANY product is only as good as the prep. If you still have rust holes in your floor and they are not repaired, then no amount of any product is going to prevent further rust from happening.
If you have some minor rust spots that maybe are not protruded through the floor, you can treat it with Rust Doctor <link> http://rustdoctor.com/

It reforms the rust into black magnetite. You can apply liner overtop of it after it fully dries.

If you have the time, space and equipment, sandblasting or chemical treating the rust is good, then patch it with good steel, then paint or line it to prevent any rust from reforming.
Some forget that primer is not a rust preventative and aerosol can paints do very little, they are better than nothing but not by much.

I'm not set on any particular brand of liner, I'm sure there are some better than others, I can only suggest what I have tried. Any liner product that does not have a catalyst in it or that does not use a catalyst is basically junk, save your money. The catalyst helps the material harden and makes it more durable, like the difference between automotive paint and aerosol paint.

As for your water issue, it is always going to be an issue, fix that and your rust issues will be more manageable.
Good Luck!

 

[nyvram]

thanks for all the great advice! we try to DIY as much as possible but if the folks who put on the linex also treat the rust as part of the job, that sounds like the way to go.

cucvrus, has it been your experience that the linex guys 'do it all' or would we need to get some rust reformer first and treat the interior prior to the liner being added?

 

[DJones]

Good info.

 

[cucvrus]

I strip out the truck and I clean it up anywhere I may have a concern that they may not clean it and seal it to my liking. I am fussy so I do more then most would do. But I have great results just sending them a customers truck that I just strip out the interior and clean it so i know it is ready. They still tape it all up and clean and prime and apply the Line X. Always looks great. I know others here have sen the end results in the live version. It holds up well. Not that it could not rust from the bottom side. That is possible and you must constantly maintain and crawl all over these vehicles. Keep after them. If you see rust get on it and stop it. (slow it) you will never stop it. That's how I keep mine clean. Never let dirt and mud lay where it can collect moisture. Moisture = RUST.

 

[ODFever]

I read many reviews on other forums and learned of a product called Monstaliner. It is UV stable and got rave reviews from what I read. Does anyone have experience with Monstaliner?

 

[eme411]

this is the northern solution , make sure the interior is rust free and clean , no factory floor covering , promotes rust like crazy, use a good product ,paint it , then oil spray the **** out of the truck, pack the cab corners with grease, we use Krown up here , all the Ziebart plugs come out and Krown is sprayed in and since we all know the areas where these trucks rust make sure you get extra in there, then new plugs go in, you living in TN have a bigger fight with moisture than salt,

 

[Lizard Dog]

OK I said it before and I will say it again... ...These are never going to be quiet. They were not built in this day and age. These are trucks with real men in mind. Not pleasure cruisers. My Mule is my Harley. Did you ever hear a quiet Harley? Who want's to? Just maintain and drive them. They are dinosaurs from a day gone by. But I still like them. Shake, rattle and roll. Get a car if you want quiet and comfort. My opinion.

Amen!