Sanding 1971 M35A2

[Boots787]

Woodsplinter -
Interesting. The CARC on my Deuce was well applied and there's no rust no loose paint anywhere. I was thinking of using wet or dry sandpaper with water and only scuff enough so that new 24087 paint will stick.
Your thoughts?

 

[NDT]

I DA sanded my CARC painted HMMWV in an enclosed unventilated garage 20 years ago and I neither got sick then or subsequently. I used no PPE whatsoever. Sounds like they firm quoted you and now the job is taking too long and they want out. I would bring the truck home and sand it myself.

 

[bigmike]

Sand it yourself. Use a good mask and do it outside. That's what I did with mine and everything turned out fine.

 

[Woodsplinter]

Woodsplinter -
Interesting. The CARC on my Deuce was well applied and there's no rust no loose paint anywhere. I was thinking of using wet or dry sandpaper with water and only scuff enough so that new 24087 paint will stick.
Your thoughts?

What kind of paint are you using? 24087 is just the color code.

Even though its not loose, if the paint is faded/ oxidized it needs to be sanded enough to remove all oxidation. I only primed areas where there was bare metal.

If you skimp on the prep work, like sanding, cleaning and priming where needed you will regret it. The paint might look good for a short time, but it will quickly start coming off or looking bad

If you're using semi-gloss you need to sand until the paint is uniformly smooth or the new paint will look bad. Semi-gloss requires a very smooth surface. Flat paint is much more forgiving.

The less time and effort you put into prep, the faster your paint will begin looking bad.

 

[Boots787]

I am using a semi-gloss paint and areas that I've done look really nice, but those parts have not been out in the weather yet. I got the paint from Army Jeep Parts as it is to my understanding that is about the only place one can get that paint. Yes, I only use primer on bare metal. I don't see any faded paint anywhere. I don't want to skimp because I want to have a really nice looking paint job. Thanks, Woodsplinter.

 

[mikey]

I've posted this before in the paint and bodywork section. If you're OK with painting over the CARC and you're not looking for a museum quality finish, I had great success with very little expense and painted my entire truck in 2 weekends alone. The new paint, whatever you choose, is going to adhere to CARC really well.

1) Pressure wash loose paint
2) Wire wheel rust
3) hose off dust, dry exposed steel, then immediately go to step 4.
4) rustoleum rusty metal primer (give proper time to cure. Mine sat in baking sun for a week and was fine)
5) Scuff whole truck with wire brush or fine sandpaper
6) Paint

This summer will be three years and the paint for the most part is still awesome. A couple of rust spots have come back through in the common areas, but they will get POR15 this summer.

If you want to see more pictures, PM me and I can send more, or you're welcome to come down to Norwich, NY and see the deuce.

Mikey

 

[Boots787]

Woodsplinter:
The bodyshop employee was wearing a very high quality respirator. The problem was the dust bothering other workmen in the same bay (large bays lots of trucks). They stopped working on the Deuce soon as problems started with other employees. None of us were aware at the time of the CARC. That shop said he'd paint the truck, but he will not sand it. Or sandblast it. Wish I had researched CARC before I contacted the bodyshop. Thanks again for your suggestions.
Boots

 

[ke5eua]

I DA sanded my CARC painted HMMWV in an enclosed unventilated garage 20 years ago and I neither got sick then or subsequently. I used no PPE whatsoever. Sounds like they firm quoted you and now the job is taking too long and they want out. I would bring the truck home and sand it myself.

I've been sanding down the little pieces of my truck in my garage with no ppe and I feel fine, then again I couldn't tell if the dust from taking the carc off is bothering me from all the crap I inhaled in Iraq.

You can always wet sand it yourself. Northern tool has an adapter to put on a gas powered pressure washer and you just put the hose in a bucket of sand and have fun. That's what I'm going to do for the exterior of the truck, the interior isn't so bad with the angle grinder and da sander.

 

[Jeepsinker]

The CARC is not bothering anybody. They are lying to you. What it is, is they figured out how hard CARC actually is to sand, because it is a pretty tough paint. They just don't want to take the time to do it right.
Just go after a spot with a sander and a 36 grit pad and you'll see what I mean.

 

[rustystud]

The CARC is not bothering anybody. They are lying to you. What it is, is they figured out how hard CARC actually is to sand, because it is a pretty tough paint. They just don't want to take the time to do it right.
Just go after a spot with a sander and a 36 grit pad and you'll see what I mean.

Even sandblasting firmly attached CARC is hard to do. I have taken off really rusted pieces and put them in my sand blaster. It can take quite awhile to get that stuff off.

 

[Woodsplinter]

I recently saw a presentation by a chemical engineer who formulates paints for the painting industry. Some of you may already be aware of this but it was new information for me:


If the paint or primer you are using says "apply a topcoat or recoat within 1 hour or after 48 hours" they're serious. These paints & primers stick to each other by cross linking molecules. That can't happen after an hour so you must wait 48 hours for enough curing to occur so you can apply another coat. If you follow these directions you will obtain the maximum adhesion possible with the paint you are using and no sanding required between coats.


I have violated these instructions several times- I have no idea what impact it had on my paint jobs, but the chemist said following those instructions will increase bonding between coats by about 200%.


I'm no chemist or expert painter- I'm just passing on what I learned.


Carry on...

 

[peashooter]

Here is a link to a member who had a "mobile media blaster" come out and wet blast the whole truck in 2 hours. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...-pictures!!!&p=1529911&viewfull=1#post1529911

He also says in post 17:
The media blasting was done by "The Blast Man" located in Milford, MI. He has a mobile unit and came right out to my shop/house as shown in the pictures. My cab was in great shape so I prepped that myself and had the bed and everything behind the cab blasted, including the frame. It took the blast man about 2 1/2 hours and cost me $400.00. He uses high pressure treated water that he brings with him and blasts crushed/powdered recycled glass for the media. Very little dust, and he can adjust the water output for different materials so he doesn't over heat any thin metal. He can blast literally anything except plastic. It did make a little bit of a mess as you can imagine but when he was done he power washed the whole truck off with his flash rust preventive treated water so that there is no risk of surface rust forming for up to 72 hours. I primed the truck the next day so no problems at all. Also, you do not need to wash off his stuff, it is paint ready! His process is even approved by all the paint manufactures to eliminate and prevent future rust. It was a great deal considering I would have spent that much in sand paper, or my own media for my sand blaster! It really came out nice!