• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Seized my engine!

donner1122

New member
9
0
1
Location
Michigan
I just put in a new distributor and took my 1952 m211 for a test drive. It was running fine but started to get loud while climbing the hill to get out of my neighborhood. I slowed down to check it out but as I slowed the engine stalled out. The starter wouldn't turn the engine at all.

I've taken out all of the spark plugs and tried turning it by putting a wrench on the pulley. I also tried pulling on the belt.

I then took out the starter and pried on the flywheel.

Nothing will budge.

Ive poured diesel and marvel mystery oil down the cylinders to hopefully loosen it up.

Any idea why the engine would have seized? It looks like I have plenty of oil on the dipstick. When I was putting in the distributor I may have accidentally cut the wire going to the "oil pressure guage sending unit", would that have done it?

What should I do from here? Keep trying to loosen up the engine? Part the truck out or sell it whole?
 

porkysplace

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
9,604
1,493
113
Location
mid- michigan
Just cutting the wire to the oil pressure sender wouldn't seize the motor , how ever losing oil pressure without a oil pressure gauge to tell you that you lost pressure would.
Where in Michigan are you ? there is a scrap yard up by Bellaire that had a few GMC's a couple years ago It may be a parts source..
 

donner1122

New member
9
0
1
Location
Michigan
I'm in Grand Rapids. Bellaire would be doable if I wanted to swap the engine. However I don't think I have the motivation to do that.
 

m1010plowboy

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,912
2,725
83
Location
Edmonton, Canada
Did you put in a fresh engine oil filter and new oil? It's a tough little motor so let's keep some hope.

We've seen a lot of tar, sticky oil, bitumen, whatever you want to call it, in the filter housing, page 184 TM 9-8024. The drain plug on the filter wasn't big enough to let the blobs out so the outlet line clearly wouldn't let oil in to the motor.

Goose the deuce barely registers on the gauge with the little 302 only pushing about 5psi. Page 55, same book.

Time for some troubleshooting, page 152, section IV, #81. It's going to be fine unless it's a Mechanical Seizure of parts.

pt 1 9-8024.

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?106483-More-M135-TM-s
 

USAFSS-ColdWarrior

Chaplain
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
18,541
5,852
113
Location
San Angelo, Tom Green County, Texas USA
I'm just thinking out loud here.....

You replaced the distributor.
Was it running smoothly after you restarted her and THEN became rough under load?
OR was it running roughly from the very first upon restart with the replacement of the distributor..... If this is the case, I might suspect that you may have mis-wired the sparkplugs (wrong firing order) and thereby, at a certain rpm/load/fuel-flow and hence LARGER EXPLOSIONS in the cylinders one of the pistons and its connecting rod may have FAILED.... This COULD cause the crankshaft to be mechanically JAMMED thus preventing it from turning at all.

But again, I'm just guessing that a firing order error COULD have occurred with the re-installation of the distributor. That's why it'd be good to know if she idled smoothly or was coughing and/or backfiring before the test drive.

Anyone else have any thoughts on this???
 

donner1122

New member
9
0
1
Location
Michigan
Idled smoothly beforehand. Ran the same as it ran on the old distributor. The idea that something may have gotten in the oil filter assembly lines when I took out the old distributor is possible.
 

DUUANE

Active member
409
128
43
Location
Qualicum Beach BC
Could the distributor hold down have been left loose and the distributor timing changed under load causing preignition and cylinder damage? Years ago i bought a 1980 k10 with a swapped in 454 from a kid in north delta..by the time i dove it the 20 miles to my place the exhaust manifolds were cherry red..timing was set at 10° after top center..
 

tobyS

Well-known member
4,832
833
113
Location
IN
Is there an oil pump drive that comes off the bottom of the distributor? If there is, are you sure you got it back into place?
 

Ferroequinologist

Resident railroad expert
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,810
742
113
Location
Liberty Hill, SC
Is there an oil pump drive that comes off the bottom of the distributor? If there is, are you sure you got it back into place?
That was exactly what I was thinking, and then with no pressure gauge, no way to know there was no oil pressure. Was it starting to run hot when it happened?
 

NDT

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
10,470
6,551
113
Location
Camp Wood/LC, TX
Yes the distributor drives the oil pump. Can say for nearly certain this was operator error. Is the distributor dimensionally identical? You will need to rebuild your seized lower end. Top end likely ok.
 

donner1122

New member
9
0
1
Location
Michigan
I just pulled the distributor. I must have overlooked the difference shaft sizes in the excitement of getting the truck running. In the picture, the distributor on the right is the original and the left is the new one. The new one is a bit shorter and the gear is upside down.

I ordered this chevy 235 distributor because I read it was interchangeable. (https://www.amazon.com/Team-Perform...x=chevy+235+valve+cover,automotive,165&sr=1-3)

Obviously the oil pump must not have been turning and caused the seize.

What part resources are out there for rebuilding the engine's lower end?



20190602_170125.jpg
 
Last edited:

USAFSS-ColdWarrior

Chaplain
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
18,541
5,852
113
Location
San Angelo, Tom Green County, Texas USA
I just pulled the distributor. I must have overlooked the difference shaft sizes in the excitement of getting the truck running. In the picture, the distributor on the right is the original and the left is the new one. The new one is a bit shorter and the gear is upside down.

I ordered this chevy 235 distributor because I read it was interchangeable. (https://www.amazon.com/Team-Perform...x=chevy+235+valve+cover,automotive,165&sr=1-3)

Obviously the oil pump must not have been turning and caused the seize.

What part resources are out there for rebuilding the engine's lower end?



View attachment 766613
Ouch.
 

frank8003

In Memorial
In Memorial
6,426
4,985
113
Location
Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
I sympathize with your predicament.
Yes, "getdoneitis" got me one time too.
I started my new engine without the carb spring so it was wide open.
Good that the ignition switch was able to shut it down.
That was in 1967. I still always try to understand stuff.

I am still interested in not so strange stuff that happens from "getdonitis" and "gethomeitis"
I was reading and interested in a March 2019 Hot Rod Magazine very well done story about "getitdoneitis".

This is from section called PIT STOP. Excellent descriptions and photography, and good story within the magazine. This is the web trunciated version.

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/pit-stop-chevy-v8-right-hand-valvetrain-not-getting-oil/
 
Last edited:

USAFSS-ColdWarrior

Chaplain
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
18,541
5,852
113
Location
San Angelo, Tom Green County, Texas USA

donner1122

New member
9
0
1
Location
Michigan
Update on the engine:

I've pulled the head and lower pans off. I removed pistons 6, 1,2,3. They came right out of the cylinder with no issues. Piston 4 came out the same but there was no bearing on it. Turns out the connecting rod bearing 4 welded itself to the crankshaft. The crank and last remaining piston spin free by hand now.

Is there a way to remove the bearing that is stuck to the crank? Or am I going to have to buy another crank. 20190612_234310.jpg20190612_234310.jpg
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks