Sequence pulling steering link/pitman/idler arm.......intermediate steering shaft.

[nikojo]

Trying to pull out the steering gear/box.

The TM doesn't specify sequence or tricks.

I tried starting with intermediate shaft that goes to steering box........loosened the bolt/nut but can't get the shaft to release from the spline shaft of box. In other trucks the steering column will 'collapse' on itself with some modest force.

Is that the case on the HMMWV? Does the intermediate shaft telescope/collapse on itself in getting this off?

Or do I need to unbolt the box and get it to pull down?



Also is it possible to get box out with pitman arm still on, ie remove pitman arm from steering link and then pull out box in one piece with pitman still attached? What if I also detach the idler arm? Can the steering link still stay attached at TRE's at end and just replace all this?


Really having hard time finding good pics/tricks/video on this exact part of procedures.

 

[mccullek]

It is easier to get the pitman shaft off the gear box, but you do need a pitman arm removal tool. I just rebuilt my box and spent hours trying to get the pitman arm off at either point. Had zero luck and just messed up my threads on the shaft. I went and got the pitman arm removal tool at harbor freight for $15 and had it off in 30 seconds. You can rent them from auto zone as well.

Another tip, go buy the rebuild kit from NAPA. You can get one for half price and better quality than EBay or the normal military suppliers. The kit I got from a military supplier had the wrong size seals for the steering shaft and the double seal on the pitman arm shaft failed instantly. I found better replacements at NAPA.

I can not guarantee it’s the same, but I used a 1979 Chevy Malibu to find my kit number match, as that cars steering gear box matched my box perfectly on my M1097R1, which is basically an A1.

 

[nikojo]

It is easier to get the pitman shaft off the gear box, but you do need a pitman arm removal tool. I just rebuilt my box and spent hours trying to get the pitman arm off at either point. Had zero luck and just messed up my threads on the shaft. I went and got the pitman arm removal tool at harbor freight for $15 and had it off in 30 seconds. You can rent them from auto zone as well.

Another tip, go buy the rebuild kit from NAPA. You can get one for half price and better quality than EBay or the normal military suppliers. The kit I got from a military supplier had the wrong size seals for the steering shaft and the double seal on the pitman arm shaft failed instantly. I found better replacements at NAPA.

I can not guarantee it’s the same, but I used a 1979 Chevy Malibu to find my kit number match, as that cars steering gear box matched my box perfectly on my M1097R1, which is basically an A1.

When you took the pitman off did you remove the steering link from the TRE's and the idler arm??? Or did you just pop the pitman off the steering link and leave the link attached everywhere else........then removed the pitman off the box.

How did you get the input shaft off the box (from the steering wheel)????

 

[mccullek]

When you took the pitman off did you remove the steering link from the TRE's and the idler arm??? Or did you just pop the pitman off the steering link and leave the link attached everywhere else........then removed the pitman off the box.

How did you get the input shaft off the box (from the steering wheel)????

I just pulled the pitman from the gear box and left it attached to the steering link. No need to remove the pitman from the steering link unless it is bad. I tried to remove it from that side too, and had no luck. With a removal tool, it’s easy to remove the pitman from the gear box.

 

[nikojo]

I just pulled the pitman from the gear box and left it attached to the steering link. No need to remove the pitman from the steering link unless it is bad. I tried to remove it from that side too, and had no luck. With a removal tool, it’s easy to remove the pitman from the gear box.

Thank you.

What about the input shaft? How did you get the shaft off the input shaft on the box? I loosened the clamp bolt/nut and it feels loose but I can't get it off.


I saw one post on another forum that seemed to indicate the steering wheel has to be pulled and the column clamp on inside of truck has to be disassembled.

None of this is mentioned in the TM.

 

[mccullek]

Thank you.

What about the input shaft? How did you get the shaft off the input shaft on the box? I loosened the clamp bolt/nut and it feels loose but I can't get it off.


I saw one post on another forum that seemed to indicate the steering wheel has to be pulled and the column clamp on inside of truck has to be disassembled.

None of this is mentioned in the TM.

You have to pull that bolt out to get it off if I remember correctly. Mine just slid right off once the bolt was out and it slid right back on as well. That was probably the easiest part of the job.

 

[nikojo]

You have to pull that bolt out to get it off if I remember correctly. Mine just slid right off once the bolt was out and it slid right back on as well. That was probably the easiest part of the job.

ahhhhhhh.......i didn't realize it was a 'through' bolt.......thought it was just a clamp bolt.....I guess I'll try removing the bolt completely and see if that changes anything.

 

[mccullek]

ahhhhhhh.......i didn't realize it was a 'through' bolt.......thought it was just a clamp bolt.....I guess I'll try removing the bolt completely and see if that changes anything.

I believe it was a through bolt but would not swear to that. I do remember removing it completely, and it slid off with no effort at all, so that is why I think it must be a through bolt. It also slid back on with no effort. Just try removing it completely and see what happens.

I put anti seize on all my bolts to be sure that they don’t freeze up in the future. Makes a huge difference down the road in helping to make your job easier.

 

[nikojo]

I believe it was a through bolt but would not swear to that. I do remember removing it completely, and it slid off with no effort at all, so that is why I think it must be a through bolt. It also slid back on with no effort. Just try removing it completely and see what happens.

I put anti seize on all my bolts to be sure that they don’t freeze up in the future. Makes a huge difference down the road in helping to make your job easier.

Just to confirm........when you slid the steering column link off the box.....the box was still bolted into the frame?

 

[mccullek]

Just to confirm........when you slid the steering column link off the box.....the box was still bolted into the frame?

Yes. Disconnect all of your hoses and your steering link and pitman arm first. There are only three bolts just behind the tire needed to remove the box. They are easy to get to and mine came out with little effort using an impact wrench. I also put the box back on the frame and tightened it down before I hooked everything back up again.

I had no issues getting the steering link disconnected, it was only the pitman arm that gave me trouble. Once I had a pitman arm removal tool, that literally took 30 seconds to remove. Spray everything down with penetrating oil first and let them sit for a bit if they are rusted. Now that I have done the job once, I could take it off again in 30 minutes or less probably.

One other tip. When you go to bleed the air from the system after putting it all back together. Make sure your tires are off the ground or else do it before you hook the pitman arm back up. I connected everything but the pitman arm when I bled mine. I had to add more fluid about two or three times, and I think I had to do the back-and-forth steering sequence about 3 or 4 times before there was no more foam or bubbling. It is much easier to do this, and it puts much less pressure on your new seals when your tires are not on the ground and turning as you are bleeding the air out.

Just make sure your tires are perfectly straight before you disconnect things, then count the turns. I believe it was 3.5 turns from one side to the other on mine, so after bleeding the lines, I simply turned the steering wheel to the far left side, then turned it back to the right 1.75 times so that I knew the wheel was dead center again, then attached the pitman arm and I was done. No slack at all and my wheels are perfectly straight again. Make a small mark on your steering wheel at dead center that correlates to some stationary spot on your dash. I used my blinker arm. That will help in your counts and to get back to dead center.

 

[nikojo]

Update: Regarding the steering column shaft that goes into the steering gear box..........there is a bolt and nut that go THROUGH the clamp that goes onto the gear box input shaft/splines. But it is NOT enough to just loosen the nut and bolt.......the bolt must be completely removed. The steering shaft comes off easily at that point.

Since I was replacing the box and upgrading the pitman/idler arms and steering link.........i simply took the TRE's off the ends of the link and removed the whole thing as one unit. Took out the three bolts of the steering box and the two bolts of the idler arm and then the whole thing came down pretty easy.

 

[Smoking Joe]

Pitman Arm Removal?

OK, I have a puller on and it is as tight as my impact wrench will take it. Not budging. Should I get a big hammer and bang away or head to Harbor Freight for some big time impact wrench?

www.steelsoldiers.com

Related thread.

The puller I used. (On the left).

 

[mccullek]

I used a Bauer 20V impact wrench and had no issues.