Shelter carrier hardware

[antennaclimber]

Yes, I used chains on all four corners. The chains are for mounting antenna brackets to monopoles and the turnbuckles are for tower guy wires.
As for the four smaller shackles, I do not believe that they are used to secure or lift the shelter. We used them in the Air Guard to drag the shelters on the ground.

I didn't see any reason to build the dunnage to the tight tolerance specs. I found that my S250 was "out of spec" by the time I got it.

 

[2deuce]

Even if your shelter was within specs, or was brand new for that matter, I don't see the reason for the precision. To require the cutouts in the top plank for CUCV installation, indicates those small shackles had a purpose in a CUCV. That is assuming the cutouts were for their access.

With such highly detailed precision dunnage specs, and then seeing shelters with no dunnage under them at all at surplus release tells me there was a disconnect in the system.

I removed the bed on my truck to repair the front panel. Something (was told it was a unsecured water tank) slid forward in a hard stop. If my observations are correct, the fenders inside the bed are what keeps the shelter from moving forward or sliding toward the rear, and the cleats keep it from turning. The cables keep the shelter from tipping out, but their angles don't prevent the shelter movement fore and aft. If I had a set of auxiliary cables to run along the sides of the shelter that would prevent any back and forth movement.

I'm making a few assumptions about the dunnage purpose, please correct me if I'm wrong, and if anyone knows what those small lower shackles are for please speak up.

Thanks

 

[antennaclimber]

Pictures of the dunnage and shelter shackles. The front and rear of the dunnage keep the shelter from moving fore and aft.

I have my shelter shifted to the left side of the truck slightly to offset a weight imbalance, there is more equipment on the right side than the left.

 

[2deuce]

Thanks for the pictures. I followed the plans and my dunnage looks like yours. I'm debating now whether to set the shelter in and tac the wood in place or nail it all down then lower it in. The CUCV plans specified those shackle cutouts, so there must be a reason.

I see the one thing for sure that I'm missing... is the "secret weapon". I will check the classifieds.

 

[antennaclimber]

Put it together with screws. Test fit, then adjust as needed.

 

[2deuce]

I put the shelter in the truck last night and will fasten it down today. I was running out of time so I fastened everything down and took a chance it would fit. Everything fit except for a minor detail with the cleats. They were an inch too long. Instead of 19" and 10" they needed to be 18" and 9" to make it install easier. They will fit at the length specified in the drawings but the shelter must be lowered flat side to side or the corners catch on the cleats and that makes it difficult to position. The drawings for the dunnage are designed to hold the shelter tight. That is why cuts were specified to the 16th of an inch. I think they knew when it was designed that it should fit tight because any movement/momentum would be hard to stop, especially front and rear if the brakes are applied hard. I will post some pictures of how it fits when I get the cables on. I couldn't get any pictures installing it because we were working after dark with flashlights.

 

[2deuce]

We washed of the shelter just before dark and the pictures didn't turn out to well. I'll have to take some more tomorrow or the day after of how the shelter sits in the dunnage, front and sides. The photo of the dunnage before the shelter was in place was taken before it was screwed down, but it was where it belongs.

 

[antennaclimber]

Looking good.

 

[2deuce]

Thanks Antennaclimber.
I took 3 more pictures, but they aren't turning out too good, partly because I painted the inside of the bed flat black. If anyone is putting a shelter in their truck and want specific pictures, I will be happy to take some more. If you follow the diagrams your shelter will fit tight. I wanted to show how tight but I need better natural light.
I remember a M1028 I sold about 8 years ago that had bed rails on it and some other shelter carrier hardware. I was the 1st civilian owner of that truck, so the military did use rails on top of the bed. It was a Marines truck and the rails were shop built. It had a shop built headache rack on it too that was fit with the rails. It didn't have the front channel with the loops, but the rack had an attachment for the shelter to attach to.

 

[1x1_Speed_Craig]

Thanks Antennaclimber.
I took 3 more pictures, but they aren't turning out too good, partly because I painted the inside of the bed flat black. If anyone is putting a shelter in their truck and want specific pictures, I will be happy to take some more. If you follow the diagrams your shelter will fit tight. I wanted to show how tight but I need better natural light.
I remember a M1028 I sold about 8 years ago that had bed rails on it and some other shelter carrier hardware. I was the 1st civilian owner of that truck, so the military did use rails on top of the bed. It was a Marines truck and the rails were shop built. It had a shop built headache rack on it too that was fit with the rails. It didn't have the front channel with the loops, but the rack had an attachment for the shelter to attach to.

If anyone is interested, I have a set of the M1028 shelter carrier brackets/hardware I removed from a project truck (tailgate reinforcement brackets/outriggers/tie-downs, and front bed C-channel/outrigger/tie-downs), as shown in the photos that 2deuce posted. I'll be listing them on FB Marketplace in the near future, but it would be great to see them used by someone for an accurate restoration.

Craig