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Shifter only moves from R to N to D

Outfitters

New member
20
1
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Location
Guntersville Alabama
1986 stock M998. My shifter has stopped moving into 1 and 2. It still moves from R to N to D so it's not a critical issue but I prefer starting in 1 and manually shifting to 2 then D to get the RPMs up (otherwise the trans shifts too quickly to drive...).
This has randomly happened over the last few months but within minutes i could shift down to 1 and 2. Today it won't go below D.
The shifter plunger/ button seems to be working when moving from R to N to D, but I am guessing these is an adjustment for that and that is the problem. I also thought about shooting some wd40 down that "plunger/ button".
Thank you in advance for your replies.
 

ryanruck

Active member
427
46
28
Location
Cincinnati, OH
1986 stock M998. My shifter has stopped moving into 1 and 2. It still moves from R to N to D so it's not a critical issue but I prefer starting in 1 and manually shifting to 2 then D to get the RPMs up (otherwise the trans shifts too quickly to drive...).
This has randomly happened over the last few months but within minutes i could shift down to 1 and 2. Today it won't go below D.
The shifter plunger/ button seems to be working when moving from R to N to D, but I am guessing these is an adjustment for that and that is the problem. I also thought about shooting some wd40 down that "plunger/ button".
Thank you in advance for your replies.
Just my opinion, but I'd avoid using WD40 as a lubricant unless it's one of their Specialist lubricant products. Standard WD40, in my experience, has a tendency to get brown and gummy over time. I can always tell when someone has used WD40 as a lubricant on equipment I work on before me.

I prefer Tri-Flow. It doesn't gum up.

Standard WD40 is an okay penetrant but is best used as a wipe down on stuff that you don't want to rust and doesn't have moving parts. The WD in the name stands for Water Displacement. Also good for spiffing up your truck's paint! ;-)
 
Last edited:

Stonewall

Member
191
2
18
Location
Peoria, IL
I would go under the vehicle and pull the 2 pins to the linkage. See if the shifter will move to all positions with the linkage disconnected. If it does not, go ahead and remove the 4 bolts holding the shifter assembly in and remove the shifter assembly and inspect. It is an easy removal, just be careful not to damage the wires when you remove it. This is a 2 person job, with one holding the bolts on top and bottom.

If the shifter moves correctly with the linkage removed, then it seems it would be a bigger transmission problem.
 

Outfitters

New member
20
1
0
Location
Guntersville Alabama
I removed the linkage and the transmission shifts perfect. I removed the shifter and pealed back the rubber boot and found the C clip that holds the "axle" inside the shifter was off causing the shifter axle to bind up. I squeezed the shifter walls together with some clamps to get the shifter axle to extend past the shifter wall and was able to put the C ring retaining clip back on. After reinstalling everything all is good again.
 

Bulldogger

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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586
113
Location
Quantico VA
Glad to hear you got it fixed. Thank you very much for sharing the solution in case someone else has this same problem. That's why we are all here.
Bulldogger
 

Outfitters

New member
20
1
0
Location
Guntersville Alabama
neutral safety switch bearing stiff

So after I found and fixed the first problem of the retaining c clip on the shifter axle within the shifter housing the shifter was still not passing smoothly through Neutral....so i took it apart again an squirted a bit of Liquid Wrench onto the bearing actuator of the neutral safety switch and pushed the bearing in several times...and now everything is shifting smoother than ever.
Here's a photo of that ball bearing switch....
 

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