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Shooting with Rapco- Tips?

clinto

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I typically paint Gillespie at the recommended 4:1 ratio and use Xylene like everyone else. I have thinned it as much as 1:1 without issues.

I shoot it with a cheap Harbor Freight paint gun (https://www.harborfreight.com/air-t...oz-hvlp-gravity-feed-air-spray-gun-62300.html).

It lays down very well. It probably would be better with a 1.8 tip in the gun, but I've used the 1.4 tip HF guns for years without issue. Turn the pressure up a bit. I think I shoot this stuff with the regulator set to 40 psi.

It flashes pretty fast, I can typically get a second coat on the same day as the first (early morning first coat, late afternoon second coat).

I know you can use a hardener in it, but that will gloss it up some and obviously for our purposes that's not desirable.

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I try to sandblast everything I paint because I'm insane. I always use Southern Polyurethane's excellent epoxy primer and everything I've shot over that has stuck to it, including real S-W waterborne CARC

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This Power Wagon was SP epoxy with Gillespie on top of it. I did about half the metalwork and all of the spraying.

These are halftrack fuel tanks
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It's a cheap paint. It's $40 a gallon. I've paid $400 a gallon for automotive stuff for restorations, so $40 is cheap. You're getting what you pay for.

But if you do the prep correctly and pay it down halfway right, it'll stick fine and if you keep it indoors, it'll last a long time. I'd say the limit for a truck stored outdoors is 5-10 years, depending on a lot of factors.
 

clinto

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It all looks good, nice job!
Did you use just their Standard primer?

Yupp, that's the stuff. You can buy it in black, white, gray and red. The gray must be new, I didn't even know they offered that. Literally everything I've painted in the last 10 years have been with this stuff.

15 years ago, my buddy bought a couple 416s which we stripped to bare metal and covered with epoxy. Then the economy crashed and the plan to get them Line-X'd also crashed. So they've sat outside for 15 years and there's practically no rust. Primer isn't designed to withstand UV, so the fact that this stuff has lasted this long (while we used the trailers for work) is a testament to how good this stuff is.

If I'm doing a crazy glossy show car look, I'll topcoat the epoxy with a couple thin coats of their 2K primer or a polyester primer and then block sand it before I lay the base coat (color) on.

If you follow their guidelines, you'll be fine. https://www.southernpolyurethanes.com/perfectpaintjob


Their paint and clear coat lines are excellent as well. Very competitively priced. They don't have a lot of colors, just the basics (White, Red, Dark or med Red, Black and Orange), but they're excellent paint.

When I do my Dad's Chevelle, I'll probably use all their products on it (I think the car is straight enough that I can get away with black).

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GTUnit

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Thin the paint with Xylene. That is what was recommended to me by RAPCO. The 383 Green came out as an almost perfect match for the CARC and sprayed great. It is also holding up very well.
How was the flatness of the rapco compared to OE CARC? The photos I have seen so far look more like semi-gloss vs CARC flat.
 

clinto

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How was the flatness of the rapco compared to OE CARC? The photos I have seen so far look more like semi-gloss vs CARC flat.
Gillespie has a sheen to it that'll take 4-12 months to flatten out. Eventually it'll look pretty good.
 

chucky

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XYLENE that they tell you to thin it with seems to be where the sheen comes from and cause it to take so long to dry . I used 1 quart of lacquer thinner per gallon of gillespie 383 green with no sheen what so ever and have shot 7 gallons of color so far on my truck so far . And its dry in an hour and a lot easier to keep bugs and trash out of while shooting outside with quicker drying .
 

Leonardo82nd

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I typically paint Gillespie at the recommended 4:1 ratio and use Xylene like everyone else. I have thinned it as much as 1:1 without issues.

I shoot it with a cheap Harbor Freight paint gun (https://www.harborfreight.com/air-t...oz-hvlp-gravity-feed-air-spray-gun-62300.html).

It lays down very well. It probably would be better with a 1.8 tip in the gun, but I've used the 1.4 tip HF guns for years without issue. Turn the pressure up a bit. I think I shoot this stuff with the regulator set to 40 psi.

It flashes pretty fast, I can typically get a second coat on the same day as the first (early morning first coat, late afternoon second coat).

I know you can use a hardener in it, but that will gloss it up some and obviously for our purposes that's not desirable.

View attachment 834849

View attachment 834850

View attachment 834851

View attachment 834852

I try to sandblast everything I paint because I'm insane. I always use Southern Polyurethane's excellent epoxy primer and everything I've shot over that has stuck to it, including real S-W waterborne CARC

View attachment 834853

View attachment 834854

View attachment 834855

This Power Wagon was SP epoxy with Gillespie on top of it. I did about half the metalwork and all of the spraying.

These are halftrack fuel tanks
View attachment 834856

View attachment 834857

View attachment 834858

It's a cheap paint. It's $40 a gallon. I've paid $400 a gallon for automotive stuff for restorations, so $40 is cheap. You're getting what you pay for.

But if you do the prep correctly and pay it down halfway right, it'll stick fine and if you keep it indoors, it'll last a long time. I'd say the limit for a truck stored outdoors is 5-10 years, depending on a lot of factors.
Fantastic ! Question ? I've used Rustoleum, acetone and KRYLON catalyst\hardener (HVLP) on a few generators, and the GCI 383 "carc" with Xylene (HVLP) from ebay on a few pieces of equipment (without sanding) They seem to hold up well (going on a few years) . How about an entire pickup truck? Has anyone tried shooting Rustoleum? I am trying to avoid prep "sanding" all that CARC if possible. Done it years back on a M915A1 - came out great, but lots of work to do it safely. I know the oil based will stick to the poly, but not sure how it will act without sanding. I have the rustoluem mix down for HVLP but, Can I get away with just degrease, prime and paint. thoughts...
 

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clinto

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Fantastic ! Question ? How about an entire pickup truck? Has anyone tried shooting Rustoleum?
Are you asking "If I don't prep the truck and use a Rustoleum primer, will the paint stick (i.e. can I get away without prep)?"?

If so, no clue but I wouldn't try it.

We've all seen the god awful paint jobs the military does, paint peeling off in giant sheets, rust coming through, etc.

No paint job will be aby good without sufficient prep.

I hate to say it, but if you want it to be worth the effort, you need to sand or sandblast the truck.
 

Leonardo82nd

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Are you asking "If I don't prep the truck and use a Rustoleum primer, will the paint stick (i.e. can I get away without prep)?"?

If so, no clue but I wouldn't try it.

We've all seen the god awful paint jobs the military does, paint peeling off in giant sheets, rust coming through, etc.

No paint job will be aby good without sufficient prep.

I hate to say it, but if you want it to be worth the effort, you need to sand or sandblast the truck.
haha yes that's exactly what i was trying to say. I tried that very same "shortcut" process on a few generators, and they seem to be holding up well 3 years in, but i'm not going to chance it on an entire truck. Thank you for the input
 
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