Show me your civilianized M1009s

[Napoleon_Tanerite]

Is it heresy to civilianize a M1009? The more and more I'm looking at where I want to go with it, the more it's starting to look like a more civilianized truck. I'd like some inspiration as to where to go with it.

 

[Warren Lovell]

I put 33" tires on mine.
I put sound deadener and carpet kit from LMC truck
I tinted all the side and rear windows.
I added a cigarette lighter so I could recharge cell phone.
I put in new dashpad, new door panels.
I am going to redo all the seats next.

Warren

 

[Napoleon_Tanerite]

What about paint? The truck is already solid green, and the roof and hood are pretty sun rotted. I'm leaning towards going with some color other than green. Problem is I'd have to paint the interior as well, which I really don't want to do

 

[Djfreema]

I added a factory suburban center console from pick your part for $20, some adjustable seat reclining hinges from a newer small blazer that bolted right in place of the fixed hinges. Arm rests for the back seat, stock cigarette lighter, stereo with XM radio. Still to do is a carpet kit after I fix the water leaks in the gasket between the cab and removable top, I would like to get the civilian sliding rear windows to assist with my 2/60 A/C and a power rear tailgate because those window cranks suck!

 

[Bobert]

I put new seats in mine. Not exactly stock but very comfortable. Now I have my eye on some in a jeep commander that are leather and almost stock color. These are from a 2007 mustang.

 

[DeuceNewb]

if you want to civilianize it, why not just start with a civilian one. Then you can have ac, carpet, radio, nicer interior, possibly even cruise control and better axles.

 

[notsosanestan]

why are the axles better?

 

[DeuceNewb]

well the m1009's come with 6 lug 10bolts front and rear with a 3.08 gear ratio. That is the weakest set of axles put in the full size chevy/gmc trucks. If you go civilian, you at least have a chance at a 12bolt rear, which is a much stronger than a 10 bolt. ALso could come with a dana 44 up front, but the dana44 front and 10bolt front are pretty much the same axle. Obviously the 8lug axles are stronger than the 6lug ones, but i don't know if blazers came with those.
Civilian ones will also come with a range of gear ratios that would be more benificial depending on what size tires and kind of driving you do. They also come in other colors, not just green or tan.

 

[4bogginchevys]

well the m1009's come with 6 lug 10bolts front and rear with a 3.08 gear ratio. That is the weakest set of axles put in the full size chevy/gmc trucks. If you go civilian, you at least have a chance at a 12bolt rear, which is a much stronger than a 10 bolt. ALso could come with a dana 44 up front, but the dana44 front and 10bolt front are pretty much the same axle. Obviously the 8lug axles are stronger than the 6lug ones, but i don't know if blazers came with those.
Civilian ones will also come with a range of gear ratios that would be more benificial depending on what size tires and kind of driving you do. They also come in other colors, not just green or tan.

6 and 8 lug are the same strength, only difference is the rotor and the inner bearing on some.

 

[DeuceNewb]

yeh that's correct. I was trying to think of what the difference was but couldn't....guess it's time for me to go to bed

 

[tshermankb]

I am sure some wont like to see any ex-millitary rigs modified but as I see it CUCVs aren't exactly military artifacts. They are however great trucks! I de-millitarized my m1009 pretty majorly, just wanted a good solid diesel 4x4 for running around town with the occasional expedition into the mountains on logging roads or out camping on the beach. 24v starting and long gears with a fairly beefy transition suit me perfectly; certainly better than the weak 700r and 3.9-4.1 12 bolts on the civy 6.2s. I re-pained the whole thing with rustoleum, deadened the tub and laid some carpet, threw in a headless stereo and fabbed in some other minor civilian bits (dome light, inverter, compressor) Im in the process now of welding up a basket for the roof and hopefully getting a proper gauge cluster put together (with a tach, navigation, accurate speedometer etc.)
And yea i know the rear seat is a little north of insane, my GF re-upholstered it in some kind of exploding peacock print, have to come up with some alternate for that soon.

 

[roady]

Could you install the axles from a M1008/M1028 in it? They would be stronger but then you have the 4:56 gears.

 

[Sgt Hulka]

I drive and use my M1009 for pleasure and in support of a remotely located construction project. Mechanically, I love it just the way it is and find the axles and drivetrain plenty strong. The one major exception is I converted it to full 12 volt and bless the day I did it. I retained the second alternator and isolated to run a third deep cycle battery and a 4000 watt (peak) inverter.

cheers,

 

[Sgt Hulka]

I like what you've done. It's got a 70s vibe going for it... kinda like a Blazer "Chalet..."

 

[Mackfire68]

What was involved in converting 24v to full 12v. What was the major advantage?

 

[Sgt Hulka]

First, i should freely admit a lot folks on this site are vehemently opposed to conversion. I did it for simplicity, reliability and ease of use as a daily driver and work truck in remote areas. Mechanically, conversion is simple, but you do have to pay attention to detail. Instructions are available in the Resources section published by a joint US Forest Service Agency. Roscommon Equipment Center.

Here's a post I did from a previous thread...

I was very hesitant to convert my 24V, in part because I prefer the originality, respect the capabilities of 24v starting and partly because of the strongly expressed warnings here on S.S. However, after careful, lengthy consideration and investigation I made the plunge to 12v for the following reasons:

1) Operating conditions: IMHO, the 24v system is optimal if operated and maintained in a fleet of 24v vehicles. However, mine was not going to be in such an environment. I was going to use mine as a construction assistance and recreation vehicle in remote areas (primarily the Central Sierra Nevada Mountains in California). Living in a 12v world complicates even simple things like getting and receiving jumps starts and loaning the vehicle to neophyte users.

2) Leveraging new technology: Technology advancements such as the 12v reduction gear starter motor narrowed the starting advantages of the 24v system and make conversion more attractive. I use two bad-ass WalMart batteries in parallel to drive that starter. I also run Wellman 050 glow plugs which are sensational. At any temperature I've tested so far (down to 30 degrees) the truck starts at the touch of the switch. Sweet!

3) Simplicity = reliability, all things being equal. A 12v conversion gave me the opportunity to simplify my starting and charging system, including actual elimination of the 24v starter relay.

4) Resources: I had enough experience, resources and advice to believe I could do a professional, sanitary and robust conversion that could easily be returned to stock as desired. Remember, technically a good conversion should be a cinch. In fact, it would be a simple matter to leave EVERY 24v component in place save for the starter motor.

5) Operational flexibility: The 12v system offers much, much greater flexibility and options. For example I power auxiliary 12v equipment off the rear passenger compartment terminal blocks. Very handy.

6) Low Risk: As the Roscommon Equipment Center instructions show, the conversion is conceptually simple and low risk. It's important to pay attention to detail, however. Don't scrimp, insist on robust connections and bullet proof grounds.

7) Running dual isolated systems: As detailed in the Roscommon instructions, you have the option of retaining the two alternators and splitting the system into two isolated power sources. In my case, one alternator charges the vehicle power system (two batteries in their original locations in parallel) and the other drives a 3rd deep cycle battery and big inverter to plug in power tools and drive other auxiliary electrics.

8. Redundancy: I love it! The redundancy of retaining the two alternators and running split, isolated systems is a great advantage and comfort when running in remote areas. In case of battery or alternator failure in the vehicle charging and starting system, I have a spare alternator and battery at the ready. The swap is quick and easy. And as I indicated, retaining the two alternators facilitates reconversion if desired.

9) More flexibility and simplicity: The fuse block and every other system is now pure 12v; adding stuff, experimentation and diagnostics are easier.

10) Reliability: I don't like not being able to bench test the GP controller card and I don't have the resources to properly follow the TMs for testing of individual circuits. I dread troubleshooting GP card weirdness (and I've had more than my share)...

From what I've been able to research thus far, the most common reason for failure of the glow plug controller card in the stock system, is an over-voltage condition (over 12v) that blows out a resistor in the circuit. Outside of that, they seem to be pretty robust. Eliminating the 24v thus eliminates the most common reason for GP controller card failure. And I also don't have to worry as much about cascading failure of glow plugs. I like minimizing risk.

11) Cost: Converting to 12v costs less than buying a new 24v starter motor.

 

[CASESIOUXCITY]

I bought my m1009 this way ,it was owned by the state for a short time and they had the springflield prison do all the work to it i guess ,they did the 24v to 12v conversion completly repainted every thing black but the fire wall,added carpet to the front half ,put on a new grill and mirrors ,i wish they had left alot of stuff on it but it was the only one i could find for sale any where even close to me at the time. I would still like to find a untouched one but untill i do i am happy with this one and it still turns alot of heads

 

[Napoleon_Tanerite]

I bought my m1009 this way ,it was owned by the state for a short time and they had the springflield prison do all the work to it i guess ,they did the 24v to 12v conversion completly repainted every thing black but the fire wall,added carpet to the front half ,put on a new grill and mirrors ,i wish they had left alot of stuff on it but it was the only one i could find for sale any where even close to me at the time. I would still like to find a untouched one but untill i do i am happy with this one and it still turns alot of heads

i think it actually looks really good. did they put a/c in it? If not, it's gotta be a bear in the summer being black. Only thing I would be upset about is the removal of the brush guard

 

[LionsLegacy]

When I bought my m1009 in the spring of this year, It was painted a really bad camo job. There was a lot of rust on the outside, so i decided to re-paint it. I went OD green with Black accents, and I dig it. I plan on welding in a large ammo box for the center console, rhino lining the inside to clean it up and cut down on engine noise, and some other smaller additions. My dream is to put stacks on running up the side behind the driver door.
A good thing to remember is that even though it's a military vehicle, it's a blazer to start. I suggest going on a blazer forum to get ideas, because I am doing the same for areas like brush guards, grille set ups, and fender trimming.
cheers!

 

[CASESIOUXCITY]

Thanks. No there is no a/c which is a bummer but i can live with that .i have been looking for a brush guard but have not had any luck yet.