Larry S.
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I'm trying to determine the rear axle position on my M35a2 that I'm bobbing. How far should the rear slip yoke be compressed without a load. I tried to post a pic but the site wouldn't let me.
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Slip yoke question
- Thread starter Larry S.
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rustystud
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It's not about the load but the travel of the differential. The differential should be able to move all the way up to the frame stops, and all the way down to the limit of the torque rods. Knowing this you can determine the length of the driveline you need. Using a hydraulic-jack you can move the differential and measure the lengths needed for your driveline.
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As a bobbed truck uses front springs in a rear Hotchkiss suspension, axle travel is usually less than as with tandems.
Size the driveshaft to give about 1/2" free space upon full bottoming.
Just make sure you have enough in there when unloaded and bouncing around so as not to have it come out!
Size the driveshaft to give about 1/2" free space upon full bottoming.
Just make sure you have enough in there when unloaded and bouncing around so as not to have it come out!
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Yep no torque rods on bob job so wrong info. Do not know but unlike "someone else" yes I have bobbed a Deuce and two 5 tons. Do not know if it was right way wrong way but here is what I did and worked out fine. Before I did anything I measured the free space on my slip joint. Then did the bob job or axle in place bolted down and installed the drive shaft to the axle and measure the distance that I needed to add to my drive shaft to keep the slip joint at the same as it was before the bob job. Worked for me and kept it simple.
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Larry S.
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I didn't explain myself completely. I'm wanting to reuse my old shaft and need to know how far the slip joint should be collapsed when sitting unloaded. I haven't drilled for the spring mounts yet so I can adjust forward or backwards when I figure out where to set the slip joint.
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It depends on your configuration and what are you using for suspension/springs, do you
have any pictures?
have any pictures?
Larry S.
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I'm using stock deuce front springs on the rear but the site won't let me load a picture. It does nothing when I hit attach files. There is not much more than an inch of travel until full collapse on the slip yoke I'm thinking thats not enough. I blocked the axle in place before I took the suspension out but didn't pay attention to where it was before i took everything apart. I'm thinking my axle may have moved forward a little. Could someone get me a picture of their slip yoke behind the parking brake. That may help. I thank you all for your interest and help.
rustystud
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I see my "Stalker" is back.
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rustystud
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Are you trying to re-use the old driveline ?
The best way to go about "Bobbing" a Deuce is find out where you want the rear differential to be and install it.
Then you can calculate the length of the driveline.
I used to assemble "Glider" kits for IHC. They're basically a frame, (full 40ft length) front axle assembly and cab and engine. Then the customer would pick what transmission, and differential/differentials and suspension system and how long of truck he wanted. I would then install everything. I would drill the frame using a Milwaukee Mag drill and install the rear suspension and then the differential. Then cut the frame.
The first thing every time was installing the differential. Then everything else fits from there.
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Looks like your putting the cart before the horse. I used a 105 trailer bed so I had to be real careful of axle placement so wheel wells of trailer lined up looking good with axle. Yes I used my old drive shaft and had if I remember 4 inches to length. This does not matter if you use a cut down Deuce bed about wheel wells. Here using Deuce bed we have to watch drive line length unless you going to use a carrier bearing. Forget the length where it is recommended to use one but Google is are friend some of the time. So in my case 105 bed gets mounted first with correct space from cab, then springs and axle then figure my drive line.
Had to add a ps. Yes I had some military cranes on the property so lifting off the beds was easy. After axle was done off comes the bed again and that is when I removed the rear cross member as I found it easer to do it on the truck. Then after thinking twice I cut the frame and installed the rear cross member with pintle hitch and redid the two air lines.
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Well sorry you feel that way just trying to help the OP with correct info. As G744 pointed out we might have to check sag of unloaded axle. Here we would have to have everything installed and lift the whole truck up from the rear using the frame and see how far the axle drops. Then to check axle to frame stops I do not know how many tons would have to be loaded into the bed of the bob to get it to the stops. You would never get it to the frame stops just jacking the axle up with a jack when everything is put together. Hope you get it figured out and maybe someone can measure the slip on a unbobed Deuce for you as I sold all mine.
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