Smokey mep002

[CDR]

So I ran my MEP002 the other day for an hour it's been about 2 months since I ran it. Seemed smokier then usual. Ran it hard for 20 minutes and backed it off and still light smoke with no load. Seems to run fine and take 125% load no problem just smokey.

It's doesn't bother me but it does would like it perfect if possible. Thinking the injectors could use a rebuild what do u guys recommend? How hard is it to pull them?
Thanks

 

[Isaac-1]

What color is the smoke and does it depend on load or run time?

 

[R Racing]

My mep003a does that on 1 cylinder until about a hr in on running then it clears up. I find in about 30 hrs I burn a bit more than 1/2 a quart of oil.

 

[CDR]

No oil burning black smoke barely notable under no load 80% visible but nothing crazy 120% it's a coal train

 

[Isaac-1]

Sounds like over fueling, could be a leaking injector, but before spending lots of money on that you might want to make sure it is not a clogged air filter making it hard for your engine to breathe.

 

[CDR]

Air filter is brand new def over fueling

 

[CDR]

Does anyone sell new injector nossels

 

[Isaac-1]

Storeman does / did do basic rebuilding on them, and they do turn up new/used on ebay from time to time, prices vary ( I picked up one off ebay last year new in box for about $40, some sellers have them for nearly 10 times that).

The nozle/holder assembly part number from Onan is 147-0136, just note internal parts are not all interchangable as they did go through at least 2 major revisions / manufacturers (Ambac and Yanmar I think)

 

[CDR]

Thanks so much

 

[CDR]

There one for $300 dollars another for $520 lol then there an entire motor for $800

Store man on the air?

 

[Isaac-1]

He posted in a MEP related thread a day or two ago about not having been on here in a while something about learning to weld....

 

[CDR]

Just emailed him I'm going to get this out and get them to him anyone have advice for removal

 

[Isaac-1]

Removal will hopefully be fairly easy, just be careful on the fittings, they tend to be very soft metal, if possible use line wrenches for better support. You will also need to remove the aluminum heat fins, these can tend to stick, penetrating oil helps, so can careful application of heat, just take it slow and try to not give in to the urge to use brute force.

p.s. the copper washers can usually be reused if you heat anneal them, hang them on a steel wire and heat them to red hot with a propane torch, then allow to air cool

 

[rustystud]

That's a neat trick about the copper washers Issac ! That's the kind of stuff that really helps the membership, not the usual look in the TM's and "Eriks" sells them kind of thing.

 

[storeman]

CDR,
I'll let you know when I've rec'd and done them.
Jerry (The wannabe welder)

 

[Ray70]

Jerry, sounds like you've been practicing with that stick welder you scored off govdeals??

 

[storeman]

Ray,
I've gone hog-wild! Have a beauty of an old ideal-arc 250 (the one you referred to) , a Lincoln SP125+, 2 oxy-acet rigs (large), a 20 year old century ac/dc unit with HF unit and tig torch and ALSO a 2008 Miller 350LX Tigrunner with cooler (less than 200 hours on it). Have taken 3 welding classes and am practicing tig at home now. At nearly 71, at least I didn't buy a corvette.

Am going to sell the century and one oxy-acet rig when I get around to it. All of the units work. I just have a hard time turning away from good deals. I'm enjoying welding and figured its never too late to learn something new.
Jerry

BTW: Gimpyrobb has been watching me stumble along on the welding web.