nevrenufhp
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Yes. and yes. Plus, the 4k spring will only get it to about 3400. It is just the same way the 12valve is done.
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So who has bumped the power on a 6CTA cummins
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panzerwillie
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Thank you for the fast reply, once i get a truck will install then and crack fuel up about 3-4 turns out, i think i understand that if not will read the thread again....
nevrenufhp
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Or send me a PM. I can walk you thru most of the hop up stuff.
panzerwillie
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Ok thank you i will once i located a vehicle, got my eyes on one near me, thank you again
willie
willie
racing4funn
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Hey Panzerwillie, Can you take some picture and make what says and what goes. Im wanting to do this and the fuel mod but would feel more comfortable with pictures. Thanks
panzerwillie
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Yes i will, looks like we may be picking a M925A2 tomorrow so with in the next weeks i will do it with some pictures, i think its well documented here, more pictures will and more people that do it and post about it will make easier ....
k5ontherocks
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I have done my M931A2 with good success. I will be attending the haspin , IN rally this spring/summer and will be bringing tools if anyone wants to try it out then.
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Hey guys I have been doing a bit of searching. Check you this link to see what you think?http://www.bigrigpowerproducts.com/p-9372-tst-power-kit-cummins-83-6cta.aspx
I can't tell if it's just a shim for the pump or what. They make some pretty big claims in HP with the other kits
I can't tell if it's just a shim for the pump or what. They make some pretty big claims in HP with the other kits
nevrenufhp
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That's a fuel plate for a P - pumped 8.3, which most 900 series are an MW-pump.
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Thanks ask before you order!
jwesley74
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We're having issues with our 925A2 running right. Bought from DRMO with algae in tank. Cleaned system, changed filters 4 times now. Sanitized fuel tank, running algae-X. Tank is spotless, filters clean on last change last week after running about 6 full tanks thru it. We bumped up the low fuel set screw on top 3 turns. and turned governor up 3 clicks on each dial. It would hammer down off the line but would lose acceleration if you let off pedal and then stepped on it again. Even maintaining 55 MPH. If a car pulls out or light turns red and you slow down. When step on the pedal it has little power and acceleration. Also, when punched off the line it bellows black smoke after turning up low fuel and sucks air/winds up EXCELLENT but it also maxs out the filter minder guage everytime.
We turned low fuel back down 3 turns and have now adjusted the ratio valve screw 1/4 turns at a time that increases the smoke. Its helped a little but still does not run like our 923A2.
Our 923A2 runs out good and strong regardless of letting off accelerator at any speed. It picks right back up. The 925 we have to let RPM's idle all the way down, then hammer on it and it takes off but also maxing out filter minder. Almost acts like theres a restriction in intake but we have checked all intake lines to the turbo including replacing air filter. So any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.
We turned low fuel back down 3 turns and have now adjusted the ratio valve screw 1/4 turns at a time that increases the smoke. Its helped a little but still does not run like our 923A2.
Our 923A2 runs out good and strong regardless of letting off accelerator at any speed. It picks right back up. The 925 we have to let RPM's idle all the way down, then hammer on it and it takes off but also maxing out filter minder. Almost acts like theres a restriction in intake but we have checked all intake lines to the turbo including replacing air filter. So any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.
nevrenufhp
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The fuel screw on top is for low rpm/excess fuel for a starting aid. Once it gets to a certain rpm, it goes back to factory fuel rate. The real fuel adjustment is covered on page 6. It's a pdf file you can download and print. Do those nuts and it will be happy.
We had a problem with an M936, it did not have what I thougtht was enough power and after only minimal running ( just enough to move it a couple times ) it would not start. The tank had what I would describe as sludge in it. We cleaned the tank with a chain and coil cleaner, changed filters, purged the fuel lines and even put a new pump on the 250. None of which helped. Turned out it was a fine mesh screen on the injectors that were plugged. All 6 were plugged with what looked like the same sludge from the tank. We pulled one injector and cleaned it and it started on one cylinder.
jwesley74
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That "sludge" is algae. Need to make sure to kill it all or it will continue to grow. I drained tank completely, used pump up sprayer and sprayed gasoline in tank walls etc... let stand for a day. I also had major buildup on bottom. Let 5 gals gas sit in tank and drained. I agitated and it broke down the "sludge" and dumped out drain. Now using algae-x in tank each time we fill it to keep killing it.
I've had non-stop fuel related issues which I think all stems from the algae. I've replaced transfer pump twice. Now seems to be running good. Change filters several times after you kill the algae. It continues to collect in filters as it's sucked through the system.
jwesley74
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Problem ended up being transfer pump stopped working. The plunger was sticking in. Changed that and runs. Turned up full fuel 2 revolutions, now idle is at 900 in neutral and 700 in gear. Now the other problem, when slowing down to a stop it stalls. Makes no sense when idle is so high. It does it every time. I have to rev accelerator at same time coming to a stop or it stalls.
Need some advice, should I turn in no air screw to back idle down a little? Should I turn up low-fuel adjustment to help with stalling? I did turn up governor 3 clicks before doing anything because idle was so low it would stall on its own after adjusting linkage down. I turned up low fuel 3 revolutions but subsequently turned it back down 3 revolutions before turning up full fuel 2 revolutions.
Besides stalling and high idle it runs AWESOME! Pulls, spools up awesome, etc... Just need to dial it in.
panzerwillie
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What did you do with air screw, did you back it out or screw it in towards front of the engine, i when to my friends bosh dealer and saw him run a 8.3L MW pump on the stand , he made some adjustments and could see the extra fuel provided with small adjustments especially in the back of the pump where does 2 jam nuts are ** he told me it can be left out } this one had both run to the end and it when from 94cc to 124 cc he told me max is 150 cc in there terms,,,,
Scott88M
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I put a few turns on the forwardmost top screw and have seen an improvement and a puff of smoke when I goose it. I can't for the life of me get the star wheel cover off I've tried chipping the paint off the plug etc. Is there a secret to getting it off? Is it a necessary adjustment I'm a little hazy on exactly what that one does.
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I've adjusted the pre boost fuel screw on my 925a2. The truck still lugs like crazy coming out of the hole compared to my 923a1. In terms of initial power for the 8.3 is this normal? I have 4k gov springs and am planning on installing one day along with a bit of boost fuel adjustment.
nevrenufhp
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One secret is to smack it from the top with a hammer. I actually dont even bother with the star wheel. You can more than make up for it with the forward screw.
If you back out the screw more, it should come out of the hole, and spool up pretty quick.
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[/QUOTE]
If you back out the screw more, it should come out of the hole, and spool up pretty quick.[/QUOTE]
Ill give it a shot it's already puffing a little smoke so we will see! Thanks
If you back out the screw more, it should come out of the hole, and spool up pretty quick.[/QUOTE]
Ill give it a shot it's already puffing a little smoke so we will see! Thanks