So your thinking Expo FMTV .. Max height ??

[coachgeo]

... It is connected to the thread in that a torsion subframe can add to the max height.

thanx, Good point. Updated top post to include this.

 

[LostInTheWorld]

I was not asking for myself. There are pages on torsion subframe design at expedition portal. I was suggesting it to LostinTheWorld in case he had not considered it. It is connected to the thread in that a torsion subframe can add to the max height.

Thanks for the clarification csoledade. Yup, I was taking the torsion sub-frame into account. That's what I meant by "kinematically mount the box, the height gets even worse".

 

[LostInTheWorld]

Options to remain lower in overall height (Admittingly posting these here for everyone and as a place to store ideas for myself)

All good options coachgeo. Some of those height reduction options you listed have worked really well for people. I think it's cool how many different options there are out there for people depending on what they want, need, and prefer.

My wife and I have spent time on sailboats with low cabin head clearance, and it's pretty uncomfortable for me (I'm 6' 2" with no shoes on). On a sailboat it's not too bad because you often spend a lot of time on deck especially if you are in a nice climate.

For our overland vehicle, we will often be going to cold/wet climates, so I think we will spend some time inside. As we plan to go on 4-6 week trips, we would like to be comfortable, so head height is a topic we will be looking at carefully.

I like the simplicity of a solid non-pup-up top. I think if we were going to go for a pup-up option, we probably would have got a FUSO. One of the main reason we got a LMTV was that we could put a full sized +100 sqft "apartment" on it.

I plan to spend some time on the design and see if I can get it below 11'.

Thanks,
Michael

 

[coachgeo]

All good options coachgeo. Some of those height reduction options you listed have worked really well for people. I think it's cool how many different options there are out there for people depending on what they want, need, and prefer.
.... with low cabin head clearance, and it's pretty uncomfortable for me (I'm 6' 2" with no shoes on). On a sailboat it's not too bad because you often spend a lot of time on deck especially if you are in a nice climate.

For our overland vehicle, we will often be going to cold/wet climates, so I think we will spend some time inside. As we plan to go on 4-6 week trips, we would like to be comfortable, so head height is a topic we will be looking at carefully.

I like the simplicity of a solid non-pup-up top. I think if we were going to go for a pup-up option, we probably would have got a FUSO. One of the main reason we got a LMTV was that we could put a full sized +100 sqft "apartment" on it.

I plan to spend some time on the design and see if I can get it below 11'.

Thanks,
Michael

Real smart planning with your height.

 

[aleigh]

I must be dense but I am still kind of scratching my head at the need for the truck to be, say, <11ft vs <12ft vs <13ft. Is all this effort really so it can be driven under some weird bridge in North Carolina and in the couple of places where they don't fit (even though there's probably a motorcycle on the thing anyways)? If not being able to do that means not modifying the truck extensively and being able to stand up in the back, so be it.

I'm going to throw a S-280 on the back of mine, build an apartment inside it, and call it a day. That way I can remove the thing from the truck and either put it on the ground, a trailer, or another truck etc when I don't want to use it. Maybe I am in for a surprise but I don't expect dimensional problems. One of the things that attracted me to the LMTV is that it is a pretty stout multi-mission vehicle. Pickup, flatbed, jeep if you have deep pockets, rv, tows whatever you hang on it. I wouldn't give up that flexibility just for a foot or two. I like the concept of being intermodal.

 

[quickfarms]

My goal it to be at 10'6" when I am done but that involves a pop up.

I could go fixed sides if I removed the bed and eliminated the subframe.

I have a S280 now and I have had a few tree branches scrape it.

 

[csoledade]

One more thing to consider (if you have not done so already) is to design a rack similar to the one in the attached picture.

It will help protect the windshield from branch strikers and then move the branches upwards instead of sideways. The idea is to push the branches over the top of the tall box (works well if you don't have an AC unit on top).

IMO it is preferable for a major branch to go upwards instead of bending sideways and traveling down the side of the vehicle and potentially causing a lot more damage than pin-striping.

 

[coachgeo]

....I have a S280 now and I have had a few tree branches scrape it.

Have you considered chopping some height out at the top of the S280 with a pop up to replace height cut out?

 

[mkcoen]

One more thing to consider (if you have not done so already) is to design a rack similar to the one in the attached picture.


View attachment 631718

I'd like to know he plans to do with that spare out in the middle of no where. You might get it down with a couple of guys but you're not getting it back up there.

Have you considered chopping some height out at the top of the S280 with a pop up to replace height cut out?

With all the modifications you guys dream up I'd think it'd be a lot easier just to go buy a vehicle and be done with it. Chop this, stretch that, worry about how this modification is going to affect that downstream, upstream etc. Buy a tent and be done with it. Or if you have to have your indoor potty buy a pop up camper and mount it on the bed. Unless you're going to the Outback for 6 months everything else is superfluous.

 

[csoledade]

I'd like to know he plans to do with that spare out in the middle of no where. You might get it down with a couple of guys but you're not getting it back up there.

I had a good chuckle about that spare tire location as well.

 

[Rebuilder]

I'm going with a High-Low box to keep the height at a minimum mostly for off road clearance but it also lowers the CG and maybe a little less wind resistance. I'm still debating whether or not to remove the C channels on the frame but either way I'll be mounting the box on a 3 point system using 2 5/16" receiver balls so it'll be removable.



I plan on starting a build thread once I get a little further along.

 

[coachgeo]

I'm going with a High-Low box to keep the height at a minimum mostly for off road clearance but it also lowers the CG and maybe a little less wind resistance. I'm still debating whether or not to remove the C channels on the frame but either way I'll be mounting the box on a 3 point system using 2 5/16" receiver balls so it'll be removable.


I plan on starting a build thread once I get a little further along.

What model Hi Lo is it? IMHO if your not already doing so consider putting single ball connection at tailgate end. Most motion of a truck's ladder frame chassis is at the most rear and most forward end. Least amount is the center of the ladder from what I've read. Besides some models of Hi Lo IMHO look better as a fixed camper box when trailer is mounted opposite of tow direction. Most any travel trailers as a camper box IMHO that seems to be the case.

It has been mentioned in here the C Channel is structural strength for the bed it is attached to and not part of truck chassis. BUT some of the aux items (battery box lid for example) have conflict with something mounted low as chassis level. Something to keep in mind.

Look foward to build thread.

 

[Rebuilder]

What model Hi Lo is it? IMHO if your not already doing so consider putting single ball connection at tailgate end. Most motion of a truck's ladder frame chassis is at the most rear and most forward end. Least amount is the center of the ladder from what I've read. Besides some models of Hi Lo IMHO look better as a fixed camper box when trailer is mounted opposite of tow direction. Most any travel trailers as a camper box IMHO that seems to be the case.

It has been mentioned in here the C Channel is structural strength for the bed it is attached to and not part of truck chassis. BUT some of the aux items (battery box lid for example) have conflict with something mounted low as chassis level. Something to keep in mind.

Look foward to build thread.

Yep that's the plan. Two near the front and one at the back. The trailer was owned by a phone company in the 80's and it had pay phones around the outside for events and emergencies or whatever. I'm reskinning it (obviously) and took the fiberglass front cap off so it'll fit up tight to the intake and spare. I figured if I remove the C channel, which I probably will, that space will be taken up by the 3 point ball attachment which will raise it up to clear the trans and battery box and leave me a ton of space for storage under the box.

 

[coachgeo]

Ideas for Modular Over-land Camper on 1078

Would love feedback from anyone who gives a rat's arse on such a topic. Having tried to explain it and typed it out once I'd rather not retype it all over again so please consider checking out the conversation over at Expo Portal where such a topic is most fitting. Folk in here will have more knowledge of the S250's and other military shelters is why I'm cross-posting. Feel free to respond here if not a member at Expo Portal.
Throwing some ideas out for ya'lls input.

Ideas based on desire to fulfill following concepts:
1. lesson degree of cab crush in roll over or Flop. Like my cranium and that of my passenger(s)
2. lower overall cost
3. Low overall height to increase adventure opportunities in wooded areas
4. Lower overall construction complexity
5. Keep it usable as a TRUCK.

For camper box was originally thinking Hi-Lo trailer like others have done but that would require heavy cage construction to meet #1 and defeats #4 so now thinking military shelters that have a strong structure that will "help" keep cab from crushing in a roll. an S280 though defeats #3 SOUNDLY. They are over 7' tall. The others are better height (Almost 6' though I'd rather 5'ish) yet they are too short in length... unless ....hmmm.... if one was too double up?

so here is my thoughts now..... too go MODULAR you might say and double up.

SUPER insulate cab. Lowers cost of AC/heat also. install fold out sleep space in Cab. Important to fulfilling all sections 1-4. something like Fold down bunk over cab seats like in RV's. Makes more since after reading below

Just a lumber rack type thing over bed now works instead of heavy cage. Acts as supports for Solar panels and to be supports for Tarp top to cover bed when all Expo gear is removed. Helps with fullfilling #5 for used as a good ol' truck is what most of it's use will be!

S250(s) One Military Shelter sitting sideways on bed. Space beyond that on bed (5 feet or so) would be for:
1. Toys (motorcycle, ATV etc.)*
.. and/or
2. onboard fuel production module (WVO, Waste Engine oil, Plastic Pyrolysis etc. that would be mixed with diesel when possible).
.. or
3. Second S250. Two 250's give overall camper length of 13ish feet. S250 design sitting sideways at rear on bed keeps Departure Angle in a Sweet spot.
.....A. First S250 built would be WET unit. Kitchen, Bath, Restroom, Living/office/Lounge. NO BED. Yes. Very Cramped. Hence the fold out cab sleeping space mentioned earlier. Appliances will also be modular though. Kitchen/cooking surface moved out onto deck has lots of advantages space/ smells/ heat etc. (Deck- Bed sides lowered out to horizontal plus a little fabrication to extend this area further.)
.....B. Second 250 built later would be DRY unit and absorb some of A's duties. It would be permanent set up sleeping area and office/entertainment space.

Later the building of:
1. Trailer for hauling of Toys and Fuel production Module . Also increased storage of un-refined fuel sources and refined as well. Heck maybe even an inflatable boat ... or jet ski? This opens opportunity of long extended travel AND...... when not used for that trailer can be used to haul tractor or car or a MOBILE SHOP BOX. Then again maybe shop box should sit on it's own trailer. Won't be taking that offroad. Just used at home, work, friends place etc.
2. Mobile Shop Box. I already have a large box off of a moving truck that can create this from. So with this in mind will build smaller shop/garage at home than previously planned (don't have one at all now) and incorporate the mobile shop into it. Two birds one stone.

Going modular allows to start with one portion of camper (WET) and when completed can use rig on adventures. Then time can be taken to save money for DRY's construction. Less down time, more fun time.

Going Modular also allows for:
1. adapt for trip at hand. Short trip won't need DRY S250 or Fuel production Module. Better MPG than bringing everything.
2. only need to heat/AC area in use instead of typical complete camper box. Such as in winter turn WET unit's heat down enough to keep water from freezing and turn heat up to comfort in DRY unit sleeping area. You get the idea.
3. whole thing more easily updated/redone as new ideas/resources come around.

Lot to be worked out such as:
1. how best to remove modules (S250's) working around Bed Rack.
2. Where to put spare tire. ROP taking its place.
3. passage between boxes..... or maybe not even doing so. Open a door...... walk few steps.. open next door. It's really not that hard. Butt..... when your naked, at a campground, and it's not a nudist resort lol. Or it's snowing, raining etc.

* I consider an alternative mode of transportation a MUST since most time I'll be alone and not with a group. Break down would mean long *** walk. So want bicycle, motorcycle orr??? Anyway.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/163129-LMTV-1078-Camper-build-concept

 

[mkcoen]

Not to be a smarta$$ or anything but, how many of these threads have you got started on pretty much the same subject?

 

[coachgeo]

Somewhat valid. Things evolved a good bit since last brought up though so now it is very much a different direction than past discussion here.

 

[mkcoen]

Somewhat valid. Things evolved a good bit since last brought up though so now it is very much a different direction than past discussion here.

Great. Then you should probably go into those threads and say, "I've changed directions" and continue that thread. Now someone who is searching about Expo builds on M1078s is going to open multiple threads instead of having the information in one.

How about a "This is my truck and what I want to do" thread then you can change it daily if you like. Again, not trying to cause animosity or anything but just don't think we need multiple threads about pretty much the same thing just because someone decides to change what they want to put IN the bed.

 

[Sapphire]

That's the whole reason I bought an M1079 (shop van body). I can use it for almost anything. I plan to add a single axle trailer for additional carrying capacity.

 

[coachgeo]

Great. Then you should probably go into those threads and say, "I've changed directions" and continue that thread.....

YES You are correct it is proper netiquette to continue threads. Honestly forgot I had the other thread in here till you mentioned it. Lot gone on since then lol. Just searched thru my old threads and found the other one I think you're referring too. Oldztimers disease. Honestly forgot about it.

Moderator- would you please merge this thread with other one found here at xxxxxxxx

Thread linked to in first post contains discussion from Expo members on on idea of using S250 shelter units to obtain the lower overall heights discussed earlier. It covers options of both In bed... or more direct to chassis.


UPDATE: THANK YOU moderator for merging threads.

 

[coachgeo]

That's the whole reason I bought an M1079 (shop van body)....

Way to tall for my desires but is one awesome way to go about it. "Being too tall" discussion earlier in this thread now that the Moderator has now merged it with a past discussion on this.