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Some Deuce Brake questions

panzerjunky

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san diego ca
Hello Gents
I have searched the posts but could'nt find exact answers to a couple questions
1. In reading the posts it was brought up several time about oiling the airpack my airpack looks fairly new but I want to get this on my pm list so my question as I have nothing to compare by how do I know if I have a short pack or long pack from the posts i gather the long pack has an oil port at the rear and the short pack does not would someone be so kind as to post a pic of where to put the oil in each type of pack ?
I am guessing as to the newness of my pac it is the short style in the daylight I will check for the rear plug.
2. I have a squealing from the brakes when I apply them when the pedal is depressed lightly they will howl when I push harder the howling slows and then as the brakes warm up ( repeated stopping ) the noise almost completly goes away. is this normal????
I am planning on replacing all the brake shoes and rebuilding the wheel cylinders this summer so I am trying to round up all the parts if the above noted noise is a bad issue I will do the brakes sooner than later.
The truck does stop fine at this time.
3. when I do the brakes should I replace or try to rebuild the master cylinder
and lastly and most important what tm or tms if the step by step for master cylinder repair or replacement, brake shoe replacement and most importantly the tm that shows the complete proper bleed down procedure for the brake system on these trucks
 

WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
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I have one drum that squeaks too. It has done it since I've had the truck, lining is good, adjustment is good. Dunno why it does it, but the truck will lock all tires if needed.

The short air pac can't be lubed like the long one.

TM9-2320-209-20-3-2 will guide you through component removal and the 34-2-1 for the rebuild.

HTH
 

Ronbo

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Good questions... Does anyone have an air pack out , that can show where to oil it?? Is the oil port ( like a spring loaded cap?? ) Sorry Panzer I did mean to rob your thread..:) Thanks
 

Stan

Member
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St.Louis, Mo.
To oil: small (3/8 ? ) pipe plug on rear of airpak. If no plug or you can't remove it, remove metal tube that is connected to rear of airpak lube and replace.
 
I have been fighiting a strange break issue where I have hydraulic pressure but not much line pressure, meaning not a whol lot of pedal. I suspect its the airpac but it could be the MC. On the Short AIrpak the Metal tube on the end does not look to be as easy to remove as the long style airpak.
 

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Floridianson

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You don't remove the J tube just loosen the nut the holds it on the rear of the airpack. Then you rotate the tube to the up pisition and fill the tube rotate back without getting a face full and secure it back. Do have rag and short sleaves as you will spill some.

Airpack with plug gets 2 oz. then with the truck aired up work the brakes to disperse the oil.
 
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MO MV man

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Two questions on the airpack lubing:
  1. Marvel Mystery oil is the one to use or ?
  2. Is there a TM or other maintenance instruction showing this process in detail?
Thanks a lot.
 
Air tool oil is a specific oil, find it where air tools are sold usually,

I used marvel because I was out of air tool oil and a reputable mechanic said it was very similar in properties "Light tool oil" many threads have reference to marvel mystery oil so I went with that as it was available at most auto parts stores.
 

MO MV man

New member
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Imperial, MO
Air tool oil is a specific oil, find it where air tools are sold usually,

I used marvel because I was out of air tool oil and a reputable mechanic said it was very similar in properties "Light tool oil" many threads have reference to marvel mystery oil so I went with that as it was available at most auto parts stores.
I have a bottle of Craftsman air tool oil in the garage right now.
Sounds like a winner to me.

2 ounces?

I'm bleeding my brakes today or tomorrow so I'm going to attempt to oil the airpak while I'm down there.
 

militarysteel

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Southern Ohio
my air pac locked up , i had to bleed top bleeder to let hydraulic pressure out, then i took off the big main air line going in, i squirted a bunch of white lithium grease in the tube and the air pack, connected it back up, and it works like a charm now.

just common sense got me through that one, didn't even read anything.

also i have air steering, it would be good if you have the alcohol kit on your air system, i believe the alcohol kit will help the air pac as well.
moisture in air system will cause rust, that is why the 16 speed auto air shift thing they were using on the military semi, has issues.
 

stumps

Active member
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Maryland
Hi MS,

Any particular reason you chose grease over a light weight oil?

The alcohol kit will help keep any condensed water from freezing up the compressor, regulator, and tank bleed valves, but the resulting alcohol/water solution rusts things up just as quickly as plain old water.

-Chuck
 

militarysteel

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First off i do not agree with what you are saying about the corrosion and alcohol kit, alcohol will absolutely keep the system more dry, witch is all around good for your air system.

i use white lithium because it coats nice, i don't want to keep going under there to break lines loose.
 

stumps

Active member
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Location
Maryland
First off i do not agree with what you are saying about the corrosion and alcohol kit, alcohol will absolutely keep the system more dry, witch is all around good for your air system.
How does alcohol do this?

While you are googling around for an answer, do look into the alcohol caused corrosion of dissimilar metals in carburetors and fuel systems. In fuel systems they are using only pure anhydrous ethanol and methanol, which is far less corrosive than alcohol/water mixes.

Here is one such source: Alcohol fuel - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Skip down to the heading "Methanol and Ethanol" , and then skip down to the paragraph that begins:"Methanol and ethanol contain soluble and insoluble contaminants ."
i use white lithium because it coats nice, i don't want to keep going under there to break lines loose.
It certainly does, if you smear it around with your finger. I would have thought it would have stayed as a lump someplace. Maybe the air pressure helps spread it?

Do your brakes still work smoothly on very cold days?

-Chuck
 
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stumps

Active member
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Location
Maryland
I'm not sure who, or what "theroy" is, but I would never post that either ;-)

You are probably right about the mentally handicapped thing, I must be, I keep trying to be nice and get along with you.

-Chuck
 
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