Sounds like a misfire please help!

[Domterry12]

It sounds like it might be in your valve train. You might want to remove the valve covers and check your plastic valve retainers. You might have a broken valve retainer.

If it were a broken valve retainer I would have a noisy valve train under the hood. This noise is out the tailpipe. Under hood sounds crisp and perfect

 

[cucvrus]

If it is an original 1984 m1009 with the original engine it will not have the plastic push pins in the rocker shafts. The 1984 had the no plastic rocker shaft and rocker arms. If it says all original injection pump and all I am still thinking injection pump. But that is a guess from afar and from what I am being told and gave it some thought. He already broke the glass ball out. Good Luck.

 

[Domterry12]

If it is an original 1984 m1009 with the original engine it will not have the plastic push pins in the rocker shafts. The 1984 had the no plastic rocker shaft and rocker arms. If it says all original injection pump and all I am still thinking injection pump. But that is a guess from afar and from what I am being told and gave it some thought. He already broke the glass ball out. Good Luck.

I broke the glass ball out based on reading some of the old forums here thinking maybe it was my problem, but I think it was working fine. @cucvrus do you know if the fitting with glass ball comes on the new pump from the company from link you sent me earlier

 

[cucvrus]

The fitting is on all the pumps I ever purchased.

 

[ezgn]

Ok here’s the story. I’ve read through countless threads on here and some touch somewhat on the subject and give me insight on things to try but I haven’t seen my problem or a resolution so I’m gonna ask myself!

so I bought the truck a couple months ago.84 m1009. My first diesel. Ran great drive great everything was good, starts up so easily, as soon as h turn the key. No smoke at idle at all. I did a lot of maintence on it. Oil change, trans filter and fluid, alternator ect ect, lifted it and put 35s on it. Like I said ran Good.

So I drove it 55 miles to a destination, then 40 miles back to another. Went on some unpacked roads and had a little fun but nothing crazy. On the way home she fell on her face. Burping farting put pedal to the floor and she wouldn’t rev up in gear. Got her home but barely. Drove it like this about 15 miles. Next day changed the fuel filter. She was alive again but now she has this , what I call, misfire sound.

At idle it sounds perfect. Start driving withlight acceleration it’s fine. Highway speed 60mph she purrs along. But the in between, the getting up to speed, the half throttle or anything more, it sounds like a gas 8 cyl running on 6, or an exhaust leak.

so I spoke with a friend who’s a diesel mechanic. He gave me a few things to try so I’m gonna tell you what I’ve already done.

Ran the truck off a 5 gallon container strapped to front of truck and eliminated tank. No change
Bypassed fuel filter box and put fuel direct out of lift pump to injector pump. No change
Tested lift pump pressure -Teed in after fuel filter on line the goes to injection pump. 6 1/2 psi at idle and dropped down to about 4 at half throttle while driving from a stop. (Normal?)
Broke glass and spring out of injection pump return fitting no change
Put a clear line from fuel filter to injection pump. Solid fuel no bubbles
Clear line out of injection pump to return line- has small bubbles flowing and idle and sometimes gets frothy bubbles when cracking the throttle open
Injection pump is still retarded from military spec, loosened the 3 bolts and advanced it as much as I could but still couldn’t even meet the line, so it’s still retarded.
I cracked each injector line while running and engine stumbled equally for each one.

please help! My diesel mechanic friend said all return lines will have some air and it’s normal,but I read here that it’s not. could that cause this? I have a video where the noise can be heard it sounds like it has a pulse, only under load tho, getting up to highway speed. Sounds like a miss, but could also sound like an exhaust leak. I’m baffled. I don’t wanna spend 500on an injector pump and do all the laborfor nothing. HELP!!’

There is no reason that you should not be able to move the injection pump forward. After loosening the three nuts have someone help you to twist the pump forward. Two extra pair of hands should help it move. Maybe even a tap with a mallet on a piece of wood from a friend while you twist will get it to move. Loosen all three fasteners.

 

[Domterry12]

There is no reason that you should not be able to move the injection pump forward. After loosening the three nuts have someone help you to twist the pump forward. Two extra pair of hands should help it move. Maybe even a tap with a mallet on a piece of wood from a friend while you twist will get it to move. Loosen all three fasteners.

I believe the lines are what’s holding me back

 

[Domterry12]

@cucvrus here’s a MUCH better video I just took, please let me know what u think thank you

Better video of possible miss on cucv

youtube.com

 

[cucvrus]

1986 CUCV M1009 Decade after being wrecked. | Page 35 | SteelSoldiers
I looked back at my previous notes, and I noted that I moved the injection pump timing line 2-line thicknesses to the driver's side of the line-to-line timing of the injection pump. I see yours is to the passenger's side. I used a strap wrench to move the pump over and it ran perfect. Could you try that and report back?

 

[cucvrus]

Step aside I will move that injection pump and you won't even need to loosen the nuts.

 

[Domterry12]

View attachment 875617
Step aside I will move that injection pump and you won't even need to loosen the nuts.

LOL that breaker bar is huge! The one I was usuing is a quarter the size, but I’m afraid I’m gonna break something! I was nervous I’d crack the pump max or the valve cover or the head , whatever I’m prying against…. I was told the fuel lines are what could be holding me back so I was gonna remove the manifold (AGAIN) loosen all 8 lines, then the pump and the. Put all back together. Un necessary?

 

[cucvrus]

I never needed to go that far to turn the pump. But it did require some leverage. Give it a try.

 

[Domterry12]

I never needed to go that far to turn the pump. But it did require some leverage. Give it a try.

Monday I’ll try a big boy bar , if it doesn’t wanna budge I’ll do the lines

 

[ezgn]

Monday I’ll try a big boy bar , if it doesn’t wanna budge I’ll do the lines

I don't think you want to pry straight in one direction with a bar. You need to rotate the pump as you apply pressure. A strap wrench as stated would be a much better method. You definitely don't need to remove the manifold. An extra person to pry while you twist would get the job done. If you remove the manifold you might be doing it several times to get it fully adjusted, no need.

 

[nyoffroad]

When I hooked up an aux tank to the inlet of lift pump the rubber hose looked ok, and on the line going to injector pump a pressure gauge read 6.5 psi at idle and dropped to 4psi under load so I feel like lift pump is ruled out.
also the feed line to IP is clear and I can see solid diesel and no air being fed into the IP, but have air coming out of the clear return. Signs point to IP I just wanted to be 100% before spending the money and doing all the labor to turn the key and have the same problem.
And yes the video is shit, I am sorry lol

To me the fact that the lift pump DROPS pressure means it's failing. I'd start with a lift pump and plan on an IP too.

 

[cucvrus]

To me the fact that the lift pump DROPS pressure means it's failing. I'd start with a lift pump and plan on an IP too.

Agree. If you are spending the money I would go all the way and change all the rubber in the fuel lines and drop the tank. Even eliminate the sock. But changing it would help. I seen the socks so worn a hole was rubbed thru them. CUCVRUS Repair Projects | SteelSoldiers CUCVRUS Repair Projects | SteelSoldiers
Good Luck. Do it right the first time or don't even start doing it. But YES the lift pump needs to go. Why? CUCVRUS Repair Projects | Page 4 | SteelSoldiers
Check out the reading and pictures on the correct lift pump. And I disassembled a few and found nasty crud inside and cracked diaphragms. CUCVRUS Repair Projects | Page 7 | SteelSoldiers A little tip. Change the fuel pump from the top. You will be glad you did. It gives you peace and less cussing. The small M6 bolts on the bottom of the push rod cover plate should be the only thing and last thing you ever tighten on the fuel pump change from below. That always useful 10MM wrench. Not the 10mm socket. That is always lost.

 

[ezgn]

Ok here’s the story. I’ve read through countless threads on here and some touch somewhat on the subject and give me insight on things to try but I haven’t seen my problem or a resolution so I’m gonna ask myself!

so I bought the truck a couple months ago.84 m1009. My first diesel. Ran great drive great everything was good, starts up so easily, as soon as h turn the key. No smoke at idle at all. I did a lot of maintence on it. Oil change, trans filter and fluid, alternator ect ect, lifted it and put 35s on it. Like I said ran Good.

So I drove it 55 miles to a destination, then 40 miles back to another. Went on some unpacked roads and had a little fun but nothing crazy. On the way home she fell on her face. Burping farting put pedal to the floor and she wouldn’t rev up in gear. Got her home but barely. Drove it like this about 15 miles. Next day changed the fuel filter. She was alive again but now she has this , what I call, misfire sound.

At idle it sounds perfect. Start driving withlight acceleration it’s fine. Highway speed 60mph she purrs along. But the in between, the getting up to speed, the half throttle or anything more, it sounds like a gas 8 cyl running on 6, or an exhaust leak.

so I spoke with a friend who’s a diesel mechanic. He gave me a few things to try so I’m gonna tell you what I’ve already done.

Ran the truck off a 5 gallon container strapped to front of truck and eliminated tank. No change
Bypassed fuel filter box and put fuel direct out of lift pump to injector pump. No change
Tested lift pump pressure -Teed in after fuel filter on line the goes to injection pump. 6 1/2 psi at idle and dropped down to about 4 at half throttle while driving from a stop. (Normal?)
Broke glass and spring out of injection pump return fitting no change
Put a clear line from fuel filter to injection pump. Solid fuel no bubbles
Clear line out of injection pump to return line- has small bubbles flowing and idle and sometimes gets frothy bubbles when cracking the throttle open
Injection pump is still retarded from military spec, loosened the 3 bolts and advanced it as much as I could but still couldn’t even meet the line, so it’s still retarded.
I cracked each injector line while running and engine stumbled equally for each one.

please help! My diesel mechanic friend said all return lines will have some air and it’s normal,but I read here that it’s not. could that cause this? I have a video where the noise can be heard it sounds like it has a pulse, only under load tho, getting up to highway speed. Sounds like a miss, but could also sound like an exhaust leak. I’m baffled. I don’t wanna spend 500on an injector pump and do all the laborfor nothing. HELP!!’

Your timing needs to be bumped up. Even if it does not solve all of your problems, you should start by lining up your timing marks and give it a test drive. I'll bet it will run 100% better.

 

[Domterry12]

Update. Yesterday I tried to advance the timing. I got a chain wrench with a pipe and could only get the pump line almost to the line on the block, no further, so j thought the lines were holding me back or something. So I removed the intake manifold again.
after doing that and having a better view of the pump I realized that the reason I couldn’t advance the pump more is because it was hitting the stops. The timing mark on this pump must be different because before the marks even line up, the pump physically cannot turn any more to the right because it’s maxxed in the slots.

so I tried retarding the timing thinking maybe it’s way too far advanced, ram it and still; no change at all.
Also, the pump that’s on my truck is a
DB2829-4521, after googling I see that’s a hmmwv pump, but with a multimeter I have 12v at the pink wire. Maybe it’s a 24v solenoid and not operating properly?
So I think im gonna do the lift pump. Try it, and then do the injection pump.

Question which injection pump is the correct one for my 84 m1009? DB 2829-????

and which lift pump is the correct one. Autozone shows 2. Delphi #CHFP906, or Delphi AMF0030

 

[cucvrus]

Delphi #CHFP906
CUCVRUS Repair Projects | Page 4 | SteelSoldiers
Check it out. I posted a thread and show the correct pump and the incorrect pump and explain the difference. I stock 2 of the correct pumps at all times just because the confusion never stops with all suppliers. Good Luck.

 

[Domterry12]

Delphi #CHFP906
CUCVRUS Repair Projects | Page 4 | SteelSoldiers
Check it out. I posted a thread and show the correct pump and the incorrect pump and explain the difference. I stock 2 of the correct pumps at all times just because the confusion never stops with all suppliers. Good Luck.

beautful. Thank you. And I’ll repeat your message for any future people looking. The correct lift pump is the Delphi CHFP906

 

[Domterry12]

@cucvrus which injection pump model is correct for the 84 m1009. DB 2829-

mine is incorrect