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Squibbly's M1009 and other Questionable Projects

Squibbly

Well-known member
408
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93
Location
Alabama
Have you checked where your pump timing mark lines up with the block, most of them seem to either line up or slightly forward of the lines.
I don’t know what you mean here…

What procedure is this in the manuals?


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ezgn

Well-known member
650
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93
Location
Lake Elsinore Ca.
I don’t know what you mean here…

What procedure is this in the manuals?


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Your timing marks are how you set your timing. You have one on your injection pump, open the hood and look down on the base of the front of your injection pump and you will see a line stamped into the steel of your pump. Right in the same place you will see another similar line stamped into the block of the engine. These are your timing marks, They should be lined up or close to it. To advance your timing loosen the three 13 mm nuts on the back of the injection pump and twist the pump so that the line on the pump moves to the right of the line on the block as you look down facing everything from the front of the vehicle. Opposite direction to retard. Adjust and test drive.
 

Squibbly

Well-known member
408
1,039
93
Location
Alabama
Your timing marks are how you set your timing. You have one on your injection pump, open the hood and look down on the base of the front of your injection pump and you will see a line stamped into the steel of your pump. Right in the same place you will see another similar line stamped into the block of the engine. These are your timing marks, They should be lined up or close to it. To advance your timing loosen the three 13 mm nuts on the back of the injection pump and twist the pump so that the line on the pump moves to the right of the line on the block as you look down facing everything from the front of the vehicle. Opposite direction to retard. Adjust and test drive.
I understand the IP timing mark and mine is aligned exactly to the mark, but why are you suggesting it?

I thought you were saying that since I changed the fuel filter I needed to change something. Are you talking about shift points?

I’m just trying to tie what I did (was doing) to your timing mark check.


In order for my truck to shift to second at 25 I have to push the top of the VRV as far towards the firewall as it will go. Not sure if that is correct, and I didn’t use the .646” block check, but it shifts at exactly 25 in that position.


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ezgn

Well-known member
650
1,039
93
Location
Lake Elsinore Ca.
I understand the IP timing mark and mine is aligned exactly to the mark, but why are you suggesting it?

I thought you were saying that since I changed the fuel filter I needed to change something. Are you talking about shift points?

I’m just trying to tie what I did (was doing) to your timing mark check.


In order for my truck to shift to second at 25 I have to push the top of the VRV as far towards the firewall as it will go. Not sure if that is correct, and I didn’t use the .646” block check, but it shifts at exactly 25 in that position.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
You are working on adjusting your shift points and if your timing is to far advanced or is not set at the proper position it would be better to correct your timing prior to adjusting your shift points. Mine are set at 15 in first to second 25 to 35 depending on how I drive into 3rd. Shifting at 25 to second and 40 to third I would not like.
 
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Squibbly

Well-known member
408
1,039
93
Location
Alabama
You are working on adjusting your shift points and if your timing is to far advanced or is not set at the proper position it would be better to correct your timing prior to adjusting your shift points. Mine are set at 15-25-35.
I see.

I thought the IP was just supposed to be aligned to the mark.
1675013555214.png


How do I know if the timing is set correctly? Is this in the manual.

Sadly, I only know about gasser timing using a timing light.
 

ezgn

Well-known member
650
1,039
93
Location
Lake Elsinore Ca.
I understand the IP timing mark and mine is aligned exactly to the mark, but why are you suggesting it?

I thought you were saying that since I changed the fuel filter I needed to change something. Are you talking about shift points?

I’m just trying to tie what I did (was doing) to your timing mark check.


In order for my truck to shift to second at 25 I have to push the top of the VRV as far towards the firewall as it will go. Not sure if that is correct, and I didn’t use the .646” block check, but it shifts at exactly 25 in that position.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Having to move the VRV maxed out fully forward seems extreme based on my experience with mine. Mine is not near being maxed out for the correct shift points. I don't know why that would be but for comparison purposes maybe others can respond where their VRV is set.
 

ezgn

Well-known member
650
1,039
93
Location
Lake Elsinore Ca.
I see.

I thought the IP was just supposed to be aligned to the mark.
View attachment 889755


How do I know if the timing is set correctly? Is this in the manual.

Sadly, I only know about gasser timing using a timing light.
As you have stated there is a part that can be made or purchased to perform this procedure. If your vehicle runs well under every driving condition during acceleration then your probably good. If the truck seems to wind out longer in first gear or the RPM seems to high in 3rd gear then your probably set to far advanced. If the truck seems sluggish and does not respond well or smokes your retarded. This is something that you have to use your own judgement on by self diagnosing. Personally I wouldn't mess with the block method . If you like the way it runs now then your probably okay. On mine the sweet spot is slightly advanced by the edges of the two lines touching.
 

ezgn

Well-known member
650
1,039
93
Location
Lake Elsinore Ca.
I see.

I thought the IP was just supposed to be aligned to the mark.
View attachment 889755


How do I know if the timing is set correctly? Is this in the manual.

Sadly, I only know about gasser timing using a timing light.
I think over time based on the condition of the motor your timing might need adjusting to compensate. I may be wrong on that I am not sure. I think every vehicle is different and the sweet spot and the timing position can vary. Just my opinion.
 

jplace1011

Well-known member
462
489
63
Location
Santa Ana, CA
I think over time based on the condition of the motor your timing might need adjusting to compensate. I may be wrong on that I am not sure. I think every vehicle is different and the sweet spot and the timing position can vary. Just my opinion.
@ezgn it sounds like one of you should make a How to Video with the whole lining up the Timing thing. That could be very cool and helpful to others in the future.


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Squibbly

Well-known member
408
1,039
93
Location
Alabama
Having to move the VRV maxed out fully forward seems extreme based on my experience with mine. Mine is not near being maxed out for the correct shift points. I don't know why that would be but for comparison purposes maybe others can respond where their VRV is set.
...but, if @cucvrus say's all of his trucks shift to second at 25 and 40 for 3rd (which is how mine shifts), and all I need to do to get that is push the VRV all the way forward without the need for a block tool...I'm good.

How can you check the RPMs on these? I assume you'll need some sort of magnet stuck someplace that has a hall sensor reading the pulses (I can do this with an arduino board), but what is everyone else using?
 

ezgn

Well-known member
650
1,039
93
Location
Lake Elsinore Ca.
...but, if @cucvrus say's all of his trucks shift to second at 25 and 40 for 3rd (which is how mine shifts), and all I need to do to get that is push the VRV all the way forward without the need for a block tool...I'm good.

How can you check the RPMs on these? I assume you'll need some sort of magnet stuck someplace that has a hall sensor reading the pulses (I can do this with an arduino board), but what is everyone else using?
Those speeds would be to high for me. Mine shift at 15 to second and 25 to 35 to third depending on how I drive. If you like the other shift points thats good for you.
 
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Squibbly

Well-known member
408
1,039
93
Location
Alabama
For anyone looking for the most high tech stereo for their CUCV, feast your eyes.



Waterproof, bluetooth speaker (and charger and flashlight).

Cannot be stolen because I don’t leave it in the truck.

What are others using?


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ezgn

Well-known member
650
1,039
93
Location
Lake Elsinore Ca.
Those speeds would be to high for me. Mine shift at 15 to second and 25 to 35 to third depending on how I drive. If you like the other shift points thats good for you.
Well Squibbly I forgot you have an M1009 and I'm always thinking about an M1008. So with different gearing in yours I can't really relate to what the shift points would be. Peace.
 

Squibbly

Well-known member
408
1,039
93
Location
Alabama
Well Squibbly I forgot you have an M1009 and I'm always thinking about an M1008. So with different gearing in yours I can't really relate to what the shift points would be. Peace.
Oh yeahh...I forgot about that too until you mentioned it.

My brother has the pickups.
Those speeds would be to high for me. Mine shift at 15 to second and 25 to 35 to third depending on how I drive. If you like the other shift points thats good for you.
I think I would 'prefer' the lower shift speeds because it does feel like I'm shifting at a high RPM, but I don't know enough about the timing on these to know at what point I'm f'ing up the engine. From what I'm reading (and it makes the most sense) the timing chain in these stretch and you need to adjust the IP with the stretch, or replace the chain. Currently no matter how hard I hit it I have *no* smoke and not a lot of engine clatter, which from what I'm reading is where you want to be.
 

vanaisa

Well-known member
262
353
63
Location
Tallinn, Estonia

Squibbly

Well-known member
408
1,039
93
Location
Alabama
I am very happy with this purchase:

That's pretty cool. Looks like this is their patent.

Piezoelectric pressure sensor reading each time pressurized fuel is sent through the fuel injection line.
 
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