I don’t know what you mean here…Have you checked where your pump timing mark lines up with the block, most of them seem to either line up or slightly forward of the lines.
What procedure is this in the manuals?
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I don’t know what you mean here…Have you checked where your pump timing mark lines up with the block, most of them seem to either line up or slightly forward of the lines.
Your timing marks are how you set your timing. You have one on your injection pump, open the hood and look down on the base of the front of your injection pump and you will see a line stamped into the steel of your pump. Right in the same place you will see another similar line stamped into the block of the engine. These are your timing marks, They should be lined up or close to it. To advance your timing loosen the three 13 mm nuts on the back of the injection pump and twist the pump so that the line on the pump moves to the right of the line on the block as you look down facing everything from the front of the vehicle. Opposite direction to retard. Adjust and test drive.I don’t know what you mean here…
What procedure is this in the manuals?
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I understand the IP timing mark and mine is aligned exactly to the mark, but why are you suggesting it?Your timing marks are how you set your timing. You have one on your injection pump, open the hood and look down on the base of the front of your injection pump and you will see a line stamped into the steel of your pump. Right in the same place you will see another similar line stamped into the block of the engine. These are your timing marks, They should be lined up or close to it. To advance your timing loosen the three 13 mm nuts on the back of the injection pump and twist the pump so that the line on the pump moves to the right of the line on the block as you look down facing everything from the front of the vehicle. Opposite direction to retard. Adjust and test drive.
You are working on adjusting your shift points and if your timing is to far advanced or is not set at the proper position it would be better to correct your timing prior to adjusting your shift points. Mine are set at 15 in first to second 25 to 35 depending on how I drive into 3rd. Shifting at 25 to second and 40 to third I would not like.I understand the IP timing mark and mine is aligned exactly to the mark, but why are you suggesting it?
I thought you were saying that since I changed the fuel filter I needed to change something. Are you talking about shift points?
I’m just trying to tie what I did (was doing) to your timing mark check.
In order for my truck to shift to second at 25 I have to push the top of the VRV as far towards the firewall as it will go. Not sure if that is correct, and I didn’t use the .646” block check, but it shifts at exactly 25 in that position.
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I see.You are working on adjusting your shift points and if your timing is to far advanced or is not set at the proper position it would be better to correct your timing prior to adjusting your shift points. Mine are set at 15-25-35.
Having to move the VRV maxed out fully forward seems extreme based on my experience with mine. Mine is not near being maxed out for the correct shift points. I don't know why that would be but for comparison purposes maybe others can respond where their VRV is set.I understand the IP timing mark and mine is aligned exactly to the mark, but why are you suggesting it?
I thought you were saying that since I changed the fuel filter I needed to change something. Are you talking about shift points?
I’m just trying to tie what I did (was doing) to your timing mark check.
In order for my truck to shift to second at 25 I have to push the top of the VRV as far towards the firewall as it will go. Not sure if that is correct, and I didn’t use the .646” block check, but it shifts at exactly 25 in that position.
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As you have stated there is a part that can be made or purchased to perform this procedure. If your vehicle runs well under every driving condition during acceleration then your probably good. If the truck seems to wind out longer in first gear or the RPM seems to high in 3rd gear then your probably set to far advanced. If the truck seems sluggish and does not respond well or smokes your retarded. This is something that you have to use your own judgement on by self diagnosing. Personally I wouldn't mess with the block method . If you like the way it runs now then your probably okay. On mine the sweet spot is slightly advanced by the edges of the two lines touching.I see.
I thought the IP was just supposed to be aligned to the mark.
View attachment 889755
How do I know if the timing is set correctly? Is this in the manual.
Sadly, I only know about gasser timing using a timing light.
I think over time based on the condition of the motor your timing might need adjusting to compensate. I may be wrong on that I am not sure. I think every vehicle is different and the sweet spot and the timing position can vary. Just my opinion.I see.
I thought the IP was just supposed to be aligned to the mark.
View attachment 889755
How do I know if the timing is set correctly? Is this in the manual.
Sadly, I only know about gasser timing using a timing light.
@ezgn it sounds like one of you should make a How to Video with the whole lining up the Timing thing. That could be very cool and helpful to others in the future.I think over time based on the condition of the motor your timing might need adjusting to compensate. I may be wrong on that I am not sure. I think every vehicle is different and the sweet spot and the timing position can vary. Just my opinion.
...but, if @cucvrus say's all of his trucks shift to second at 25 and 40 for 3rd (which is how mine shifts), and all I need to do to get that is push the VRV all the way forward without the need for a block tool...I'm good.Having to move the VRV maxed out fully forward seems extreme based on my experience with mine. Mine is not near being maxed out for the correct shift points. I don't know why that would be but for comparison purposes maybe others can respond where their VRV is set.
I resemble this remark.If the truck seems sluggish and does not respond well or smokes your retarded.
I nominate Squibbly, he is handy and more talented.@ezgn it sounds like one of you should make a How to Video with the whole lining up the Timing thing. That could be very cool and helpful to others in future.
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It did cross my mind that it didn't sound quite right, but it is what it is.I resemble this remark.
I nominate @ezgn because I want to hear what his truck sounds like on each shift.I nominate Squibbly, he is handy and more talented.
Those speeds would be to high for me. Mine shift at 15 to second and 25 to 35 to third depending on how I drive. If you like the other shift points thats good for you....but, if @cucvrus say's all of his trucks shift to second at 25 and 40 for 3rd (which is how mine shifts), and all I need to do to get that is push the VRV all the way forward without the need for a block tool...I'm good.
How can you check the RPMs on these? I assume you'll need some sort of magnet stuck someplace that has a hall sensor reading the pulses (I can do this with an arduino board), but what is everyone else using?
Well Squibbly I forgot you have an M1009 and I'm always thinking about an M1008. So with different gearing in yours I can't really relate to what the shift points would be. Peace.Those speeds would be to high for me. Mine shift at 15 to second and 25 to 35 to third depending on how I drive. If you like the other shift points thats good for you.
Oh yeahh...I forgot about that too until you mentioned it.Well Squibbly I forgot you have an M1009 and I'm always thinking about an M1008. So with different gearing in yours I can't really relate to what the shift points would be. Peace.
I think I would 'prefer' the lower shift speeds because it does feel like I'm shifting at a high RPM, but I don't know enough about the timing on these to know at what point I'm f'ing up the engine. From what I'm reading (and it makes the most sense) the timing chain in these stretch and you need to adjust the IP with the stretch, or replace the chain. Currently no matter how hard I hit it I have *no* smoke and not a lot of engine clatter, which from what I'm reading is where you want to be.Those speeds would be to high for me. Mine shift at 15 to second and 25 to 35 to third depending on how I drive. If you like the other shift points thats good for you.
I am very happy with this purchase:How can you check the RPMs on these? I assume you'll need some sort of magnet stuck someplace that has a hall sensor reading the pulses (I can do this with an arduino board), but what is everyone else using?
That's pretty cool. Looks like this is their patent.I am very happy with this purchase:
Diesel Tiny-Tach | Design Technology, Inc., Home of Tiny-Tach
Diesel Tiny-Tach. An hour-meter for diesel engines.tinytach.com
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