SS diesel glow plugs

[rizzo]

RE: Re: RE: 12 vs 24?

just checked the output of the resistor and it is 24 volts

checked the output to the wire that hooks to the glow plug itself and that is 24v also.

that is probably why the plugs failed.


also pulled the other two plugs out that were stuck and they are wellmans.I still have 1 AC 11g plug that SS sent me. It is not the cause of my problems, but I still have it.

 

[85-m1028]

Re: RE: Re: RE: 12 vs 24?

just checked the output of the resistor and it is 24 volts

checked the output to the wire that hooks to the glow plug itself and that is 24v also.

that is probably why the plugs failed.


also pulled the other two plugs out that were stuck and they are wellmans.I still have 1 AC 11g plug that SS sent me. It is not the cause of my problems, but I still have it.

I think it reads 24v cause there's no load once it starts to pull amperage through the resistor then it gets gets knocked down to 12v??

someone correct me if I'm wrong!!

The resistor should read 3ohms....

 

[ida34]

RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: 12 vs 24?

It should show 12 volts at the glow plug relay regardless of any load on the system. Anything that senses voltage will draw a small load also. The voltage varies as the resistor heats up put the output does not change a lot. I would think it would be less than a volt difference.

Rizzo, I read your other thread. While I don't understand a conditional unconditional guarantee, I do have to agree that the plugs going was not the fault of the plugs themselves. The resister pumping in 24 volts kills the controller every time. I think it is a voltage regulator chip that is destroyed. Check with CCatlett. I think he has replaced the chip before. Check some of the old threads. You could fix the one you got as a spare. Am I remembering right that you have a new controller on the way? If I had a good resister on my junkvee I would offer it to you but it was gone before I got it. I have Wellman g070's that I got from INDUSA. They seem to work just fine for me. Sorry you had all this trouble and I hope you get is fixed soon.

Chuck

 

[rizzo]

RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: 12 vs 24?

anyone ever hear of a resistor failing like that?

I would think it would burn out and stop working all together.

maybe it was bypassed, I will trace the wire

 

[ida34]

RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: 12 vs 24?

You replied before I got done. They fail all the time and let 24 volts through. This is the main thing that kills the controller.

 

[rizzo]

Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: 12 vs 24?

You replied before I got done. They fail all the time and let 24 volts through. This is the main thing that kills the controller.

I'm glad I waited to install my brand new controller.

 

[ida34]

RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: Re: RE: 12 vs 24?

Have you seen the trouble shooting section of the -20? I think it is in section 2. It has a table that has test values for all the inputs to the controller. I would check everything over to make sure all else is good before plugging in the new module. If all the values are correct on all the wires at the controller the manual says to replace the controller card so if you do the checks listed everything else should be in great shape.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

I had issues the day I got my First M1009 Home....all GP's fried. I removed the Ballast resistor, removed the fuesable link from the 24v output block and the fuesable link into the GP Relay, Reused 1 of the fuseable links and tied it down from the 12v Block to the GP Relay.
I then installed 8 new AC60G GP's and Wham!.....Fired Right up and has continued to fire right up even after sitting for Months of NO Use. Wait light stays on initially for 20 seconds....That does not bother me cuz the AC60G's are self regulating. I used an Old Set from my Civy 98 Turbo Diesel Hummer 6.5 Engine.
I just won another M1009 on GL and will do same.

As far as Jumping the Batteries, Not sure why this would be an issue, I am not changing the wiring of the batteries, 24v is still required to start the vehicle cuz the starter is 24v.I am using the 12v block and this should never change, if you jump 24v to 24v I would have a NEG from Battery A and POS from Battery B and of course the other Pos/Neg ties together.....Am I missing something? The 12v Block goes from the rear Battery 12v, Basically tapping of the single battery....I know this can run this Battery down...But.

 

[mangus580]

When your batteries are totally dead, and you use a slave cable to jump it, you dont have 2 12v batteries. You have one 24v connection. Your glow plugs will not see any voltage if they are wired 12v.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

But the voltage coming out of the batterie is 12v, How will you push 24v out of a 12v battery? You are half tapped...if I go out right now and do a 24v jump, I would still only see 12v out of that one Pos/Neg battery connection...the rear battery in the case of the M1009.

 

[mangus580]

Actually the front battery on the 1009 (all CUCV's) is the '12v' battery.

Do it this way. unhook your batteries all together. Connect a slave cable of 24v's to the front. Where is the 12v gonna come from now?

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

The red wire for the 12v block comes on the rear battery, The Slave receptactle wires direct to the pos and neg blocks on the Fire wall...If I plug a slave cable in it will send 24v to the 2 batteries wired is Series....I would still only have 12volts from that single Battery in the rear....Perhaps I am missing something?

2 batteries, 1 neg lead wired from BAT "A" to BAT B's POS Post....That leaves me with a POS on BAT "B" and NEG on BAT "A". Those 2 leftover Posts are 24v's.....correct?

There is 12v on both batteries individually even though they are wired this way, I can TAP of either Battery to get 12v but just not the POS and NEG of BAT A and BAT B together as this is 24v.....

Sorry for the confusion......It is just my understanding of how this works and am trying to understand.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Actually the front battery on the 1009 (all CUCV's) is the '12v' battery.

Do it this way. unhook your batteries all together. Connect a slave cable of 24v's to the front. Where is the 12v gonna come from now?

The Slave cable jumps both batteries in Series not a single 12v battery...No?
If I did what you say I would fry that Single 12v battery.....No?

 

[mangus580]

Actually I was saying try it with no batteries at all. The point is, the 2 batteries, with the way they are wired, make a 12v battery and a 24v battery. If the batteries are stone dead, and you have to hook up a slave cable, you dont have the split between the batteries for 12v items. You only have 24v.

That make any better sense?

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Getting Close.....

Why would it make a difference? Would that still not mean that 24v was being applied to both 12v Bats individually? as well as 24v in Series?

 

[mangus580]

If you use the slave cable to charge the batts.... for a while, it would work. But for 'plug & start', you wont get 12v at the split.

 

[rizzo]

If you use the slave cable to charge the batts.... for a while, it would work. But for 'plug & start', you wont get 12v at the split.

I talked this over with my Dad today and we came up with the same answer.

 

[85-m1028]

beside the obvious "I have a collection of military vehicles" why would you want to keep the 24V system?? My reasoning being if you hook up the glow plugs to the 12v block that only leaves the starter left for 24V. having a 24v system for one starting item isn't justifiable... {spock voice} the needs of the many outweigh the needs of the few, or the one!!!

 

[ARMYMAN30YearsPlus]

I like the idea that I can use my slave cable on any of the prime movers I have
That is reason enough for me.

 

[ida34]

My last cucv had totally fried batteries. I hooked up the slave cable from my other running cucv. It took about 30 minutes of charging from the running vehicle to get the dead battery vehicle to start. The you still need enough charge in the front battery to get the ignition switch and 28 volt relay to kick the starter. As soon as I did get the front battery a little charge the thing kicked the glow plugs and starter just fine. I too wanted to keep it stock to be able to slave it if they batteries died at home or on the road at a show. I keep two jumper batteries in the back in case I have a problem day to day. It is my daily driver but I am trying to keep it as stock as possible.