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Start Up - Trouble Shooting (VIDEO)

linx310

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Did you bleed the fuel line/injector lines of air?

That wire that is broken could be the one that runs to the fuel solenoid or IP, I recall reading some place it was the pink one and that looks pink in the video. Of course I am not a CUCV expert and I am probably wrong.
 
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MuleMac01

Military vehicle collector
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frist off that guy in the video needs new batteys there's hardly any power to the starter for the engine to turn fast...... charge up em batterys
 

Solid Gold

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Colonel Linx310 - Thank you sir for your help in this matter.

That is the video I needed help posting too.

Well, with some good advice on bleeding the air out of the fuel system and reattaching a fuel wire to a fuel pump that needs juice for power, it's making sense to me at this point.

Posting videos is helping me review my work when I return off the mountain trying to get this rig running again and helps me do a load out inventory of what I need to bring.

**********

The day I shot the above video was in the upper 20's / lower 30's in temperature.

I tried flooding the engine using the foot throttle with several pumps and a strong hold down to the floor and didn't even smell any diesel fuel when taking off the air filter housing to inspect and look for more clues to solve this puzzle.

Been dealing with rogue rodent issues, so seeing a munched loose wire made me wonder if I was getting warmer to figuring out this conundrum and getting my engine started.

Noticed a bid number with date of sale being in January of last year and all with less than 40 miles put on it since being liquidated to the fella that sold it to me.

Did I mention that it was love at first sight with this CUCV?


**********

Will reattach faded orange/pink wire with some electrical end piece connection and add some fresh diesel.

Will reinstall warm charged batteries and try turning over the engine again, with a video posting.

Ps. Any straight up advice or helpful hints on bleeding out the air?

[thumbzup] -thank you everyone again for your support.
 
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Warthog

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The advice I have is to search the forums for previuosly answered questions, download and read the tech manuals.

The tech manuals have step-by-step troubleshooting sections for each of the issues you are having.

Fuel system bleeding has been covered before.

The tech manual says to make sure your batteries are fully charged and load tested before diagnosing any engine/electrical issues. Have you done that?

This forum has been around for awhile and every question/problem you are/will have has been asked and answered many times.

While I applaud you for posting the videos it doesn't help for those of us that don't have speakers to listen to. Or the time to waste watching them.

If you can't take the time to "write out" the problems you are having and the steps you have taken to fix the problem, then I don't have the time to help.

Best of Luck.
 

Barrman

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I third what Warthog and doghead wrote. I will also add this.

You can not "flood out" a diesel by pushing the pedal with the engine not running. It is a mechanical fuel injection set up. Pumping the pedal until your leg is cramping is no different than never touching it as far as the engine is concerned. Only air goes through the intake. The fuel is injected through the injectors and doesn't see the air until it is inside the pre combustion chamber. If you do smell diesel in the intake, don't start it up. Find out how it got there because your engine will run away if it is there.

Fold down the sun visor over your head and read the directions on it. It walks you through the cold start procedure. The only reason it even mentions touching the pedal is so that the hi idle will kick in and once the engine is running, the throttle will be a little more advanced than normal idle. So, moving the throttle pedal only helps you once the engine actually starts. Cold diesel engines kind of throw a fit when you wake them up. Running them a little bit faster at first keeps them going long enough to warm up and be happy at a lower idle speed.
 

Bettendorf

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Solid Gold, I was having the same problem today. Luckily, I had a block heater installed and I had to let it warm up for a few hours and then I followed the instructions on the back of the visor and it started right up. Good luck.
 

Solid Gold

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Weather at this elevation today was 50 degrees - batteries were toasty warm riding up and fully charged.

Reinstalled batteries and followed the TM for bleeding the air out - no problem.

Inspected the glow plug card - it appears old and visually no signs of burn out - should this be tested anyway?

Pink diesel - is that the off road illegal stuff that some states can dip your tank and issue citations?

Beginning to think about the starter, as it was rather HOT when feeling for any wonky wire issues where they connected.

Youtube video: Steel Soldier M1031 CUCV - Trouble Shooting II

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MhG2YhknQl4[/media]
 
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rnd-motorsports

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Just a small note not sure about the start problem but just a thought on the no lights the two switches to the left of the light switch the one closest to the switch should be up or to service lights I think up without looking and your lights should work now! looks like it is in the middle in the vedio would also remove starter and have tested if the batterys are good not turning over fast at all
 

Barrman

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Your starter is bad. That is way to slow cranking for a new set of batteries. The pink wire is the one you pulled off and put in the air intake to bleed the fuel filter. Make sure 12V is getting to the end of the pink wire and that you can hear the on/off solenoid inside the injection pump clicking when you connect the wire back up with the key on. No click, the engine will never run.
 

iamspencer

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Roxbury, CT
If you have charged the batteries or tried to jump start it and its still cranking slow, its a bad starter, It should not be that slow or sound like that.

look at the fuel filter (silver rectangular Box) on firewall to the left of engine and check for any signs of wetness or leaks around that area.

If its leaking I just bypass them on all my trucks and put a unversal inline fuel filter there instead.
 

Solid Gold

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Made a journey up to visit the "Rat Rig" today - typical wet winter day in the Pacific Northwest.

Lesson learned - keep the red fire bottle nearby and handy for those worst case scenarios.

Checked the inline fuses by firmly pulling on them - I understand that if they are "good" they pull-tight, if they are "bad" they pull-apart.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ENS0HBQ21OA[/media]
 
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50shooter

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Illinois
I thought the video idea was awesome, it's tuff to spell everything out in words. As has been said, the starter should be spinning the heck out of it if the batts are good. You must have pudding in the engine for it to be spinning that slow and labored. To me it really sounds more batt related than anything. Cranking w/the batts low will smoke your starter. Also, starting fluid use w/glow plugs is a no no, your glow plugs may be smoked. Stick the meter on them to ensure they are functional.
This may sound really off the wall but I have one M1008 that won't start unless the azz end is many degrees higher than the front end i.e. parked going down a steep hill. There is obviously a fuel drain back issue. Also, pumping the M1008 peddle will do nothing until the engine is running. I have another M1008 that if you aren't on the peddle when it fires, your screwed. It will pop and die and that's it for the day. If you are ready on the peddle and take it to red line for 2 seconds it will run like a top for the weekend. They are a fical lot. Best of luck to you.
 
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