Started the bobb job

[TJP]

Thanks guys,

I will head out to the steel shop next week and pick up some 6''X2''X .188''. I like the idea of just welding it to the bed, the only question I have is the piece of wood to use. My truck came from GL with no bed. So there was no wood, is there a certain type of hardwood and a specific way to treat it.

 

[Ridgerunner]

RedbeardTheZombieHunter;

Do you know what material to use to lift it 6 inches. What I am asking is there a certain type of
material that is more safe than others, medial tubing, spacers, bushings ?

Just leave the trailer box bolted to the trailer frame, and cut the tongue off. Then mount the entire box/frame assembly on the deuce frame rails (with the wood buffer between) You already have it, and it won't cost you any more money to buy more material. I think the trailer frame is four or five inches tall. This is what I did on mine, when I bobbed it.

 

[plym49]

Thanks guys,

I will head out to the steel shop next week and pick up some 6''X2''X .188''. I like the idea of just welding it to the bed, the only question I have is the piece of wood to use. My truck came from GL with no bed. So there was no wood, is there a certain type of hardwood and a specific way to treat it.

I am not sure what type of wood was used originally. However, perhaps locust would work. My buddy lives in the oldest home in these parts - it predates the Revolution - and he swears by use of locust (untreated) for fence posts and outbuilding sills. He says that the old expression was that a locust fence post would last one year longer than a stone fence post. That's why I mentioned your local saw mill in my earlier post - tell them what you are trying to do and they will recommend something that will work.

 

[TJP]

Just leave the trailer box bolted to the trailer frame, and cut the tongue off. Then mount the entire box/frame assembly on the deuce frame rails (with the wood buffer between) You already have it, and it won't cost you any more money to buy more material. I think the trailer frame is four or five inches tall. This is what I did on mine, when I bobbed it.

.

I thought about cutting up the trailer frame, but I have shelter I would like use it for.

Thanks for info

 

[KsM715]

Mount that bad boy on the truck.

 

[TJP]

Mount that bad boy on the truck.

Believe me I thought about it, but I like the look of the bobbed deuce to much.

Here is a pic of one mounted

 

[hornetfan]

Thanks guys,

I will head out to the steel shop next week and pick up some 6''X2''X .188''. I like the idea of just welding it to the bed, the only question I have is the piece of wood to use. My truck came from GL with no bed. So there was no wood, is there a certain type of hardwood and a specific way to treat it.

Oak, ash, locust. I would think a a deck sealer would be ok.

Redbeard's suggestion to use the trailer frame for spacing sounds good if you don't want to keep the trailer. But trailers are awfully useful.

TJP, do you have any idea how much the M105 bed weighs?

 

[TJP]

Oak, ash, locust. I would think a a deck sealer would be ok.

Redbeard's suggestion to use the trailer frame for spacing sounds good if you don't want to keep the trailer. But trailers are awfully useful.

TJP, do you have any idea how much the M105 bed weighs?

I have no way to weight it exactly but it feels to be about 800 to 900 pounds. I used a Harbor Freight lift to move it and it lifted it easily.

 

[hornetfan]

TJP,

That is a nice 'Mog. I'd love to run across one of those shelters. You could use shaped tool/storage boxes mounted like the Unimog's boxes to create a wheelwell when you mount it on the M103 chassis left over from your conversion. That would make a very nice trailer. And already has mounts for a/c-heat and genset. I wonder which units were originally fitted?

 

[KsM715]

TJP,

That is a nice 'Mog. I'd love to run across one of those shelters. You could use shaped tool/storage boxes mounted like the Unimog's boxes to create a wheelwell when you mount it on the M103 chassis left over from your conversion. That would make a very nice trailer. And already has mounts for a/c-heat and genset. I wonder which units were originally fitted?

HMMWV's

http://www.gichner.us/hmmwv.pdf

 

[hornetfan]

Jeff,

Oops. I should have been more specific. I meant which a/c-heat and genset models were originally fitted to the shelter, not which vehicle the shelter was fitted to. At a guess I would think about 3kw genset and 2-ton a/c-30k BTU heat but that is just a guess. Handy size and I'm sure the shelter will fit nicely onto the 1 1/2 ton trailer chassis TJP has left over from his project.

Thanks for the link!

 

[ranchhopper]

Thanks guys,

I will head out to the steel shop next week and pick up some 6''X2''X .188''. I like the idea of just welding it to the bed, the only question I have is the piece of wood to use. My truck came from GL with no bed. So there was no wood, is there a certain type of hardwood and a specific way to treat it.

Most strips of wood under the bed rails on deuces is mahogany pretty tough and surprisingly rot resistant considering its a conifer tree.

 

[plym49]

Every time I catch this thread out of the corner of my eye, I misread the title and for a slight second I figure I brought up the plastic surgery forum by mistake.

 

[hornetfan]

Mahogany would be fine if it were still available. I'd say darned near any hardwood which isn't splintery and can tolerate a bit of bending stress (which means almost all hardwoods) would be fine. Maybe TJP can find some otherwise scrap strips of tropical hardwood from a flooring job or pick up a couple of planks from a semi-trailer manufacturer or something. Someone mentioned checking out local hardwood sawmills -- great idea if such a mill still exists in his area.

Be safe, folks.

 

[RedbeardTheZombieHunter]

Whatever kind of hardwood you use for the buffer strips, it wouldn't hurt to give them a coat of Thompson's Water Seal. Better to be safe than sorry.

 

[hornetfan]

Redbeard,

I could not for the life of me remember the name. That's it. Any similar deck sealer would be good; the Thompson's has a pretty good rep. A few woods can get away without sealer but I agree a sealer is cheap assistance against rot including dry rot.

Just don't use a softwood like pine.

 

[ranchhopper]

I have used 1X3 strips of white oak as well no treatment and they have held up fine as well you want to be carful useing sealants some will quickly corrode the frame rails.

 

[TJP]

Little progress over the weekend. cut frame started drilling for hangers. I may just Finnish putting the back end of frame together and start painting this next week. I had to take out the air tanks and may drop fuel tank to coat every thing with fresh paint.

Here are some pics of the little progress this past weekend.

 

[RedbeardTheZombieHunter]

WOW! Did you really cut a section out of your frame and weld it back together????? Please tell me that's not what you really did!!!!!
If so, get another frame, remove the rear cross member where the pintle hitch is mounted, shorten it from the rear end and BOLT the cross member back in. If you have the access and the ability to do hot rivets like what 's originally in the frame, go for it, but otherwise, graded bolts are acceptable and safe. But one of the first things professional welders are taught is NEVER EVER WELD ON A TRUCK FRAME! When you weld a truck frame, you severely compromise the molecular structure and temper of the steel and run a HUGE risk of killing yourself or someone else when that frame breaks apart about 1/8th to 1/4th of an inch from the actual weld joint. I dunno about other states, but if the DOT in California happens to inspect it and sees the frame welded together like that, they'll red tag it, suspend your registration and likely impound it. In some rare instances where a frame rail must be welded together and there's no way around it, the proper procedure is to make the cut in a 45-degree slash angle so that the weld joint is longer and stronger, but those instances are rare as this can only be done on a non-tempered steel. All modern truck frames are tempered and should not be welded on at all, which is why everything is riveted together in the first place.
I hate to sound like a douche here, but I'd feel really bad being a professional welder/fabricator, knowing what I know, what I've seen, and not say anything and have the worst happen.
I strongly urge you to get another frame, shorten it from the rear end of the rails and bolt the rear cross member back in.
Even if you don't get caught with a welded frame and your truck taken away, even if the failure happens at low speed on an off-road trail and no one gets hurt, getting a lowboy trailer and tractor to haul your broken truck home is gonna cost a lot more than just replacing your frame and shortening it the right way.
Not to sound like a broken record here, but it's not a matter of if it fails, but when.
Please think it over!

 

[Ridgerunner]

WOW! Did you really cut a section out of your frame and weld it back together????? Please tell me that's not what you really did!!!!!

Looks to me like he just ground down the paint to bare metal, so he could get a good clean cut with the plasma cutter. Way less of a smoke show, and no interruped cut.

He's bobbing the truck, not lengthening it back to a long 6x6 chasis.