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Starter binds sometimes but catches fine other times. Thoughts?

Nacademus

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Location
Sheffield Lake, Ohio
Hello Steel Soldiers,

I have a peculiar problem that I am trying to sort out for my father who has a 1008.



First off, since we've owned the truck, while cranking, it would sound like its binding on the flywheel, but not all the time. Sometimes it would spin perfectly fine and healthy, other times it would bind or sound like its dragging while cranking and I would have to turn the ignition off and have another go at it.

So far, my father has had the unit inspected by a man who repairs starters. The gentleman said that the starter functioned perfectly fine when he tested it and that he KNEW it was a 24V off the bat-so its not like he doesn't know what he's looking at.

The solenoid was tested and found to be functioning properly. He replaced the spring and put in new bushings, brushes, and cleaned the commutator.

When I put the starter back in, the same thing happened as before. I don't have a shim in. The bracket is bolted properly.

Again. Not every time the key is turned I have the binding issue, but every time I start the truck, I have to stop and return the key to somewhat reset the starter.

Any help folks?
 

PAm1009

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Location
hatboro,PA
make sure you have the starter brace from the block to the starter. Check your bolt tightness. its possible your flywheel might be bad pull inspection cover off the th400 and inspet
 

Warthog

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Some starters need a shim and some don't. The tolerances are different on each one. No way to tell for sure unless you check it with a feeler guage.

Why not add a very thin shim and see what the results are?
 

Nacademus

Member
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6
Location
Sheffield Lake, Ohio
Some starters need a shim and some don't. The tolerances are different on each one. No way to tell for sure unless you check it with a feeler guage.

Why not add a very thin shim and see what the results are?
I'll add a thin shim when I get home.

I wondered if the flywheel was cracked or the bolts were backed off and actually removed that access panel. Everything seems tight, and to be honest, the flywheel teeth and the cogs on the bendix of the starter look great.

I think I have some round-type feelers that I'll use to gauge the gap.

The bracket is secured and tight.
 

gungearz

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The batteries might be bad under load. My 70 nova did the same after I dropped in the big blockwhile I used the old 650cca battery. After I swapped to a 1000cca, I never had the problem again.
 

Nacademus

Member
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Location
Sheffield Lake, Ohio
Ahh. That may be possible.

My dad, whose truck this used to be, put some no-name batteries from Tractor Supply in there. I doubt he kept the original CCA as the MilSpec batteries. That is something to take into consideration.


Anyone know what CCAs and any other information about the original military batteries so that I may a comparison and ultimately determine if THATS my initial problem?
 

Nacademus

Member
63
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6
Location
Sheffield Lake, Ohio
Ahh. That may be possible.

My dad, whose truck this used to be, put some no-name batteries from Tractor Supply in there. I doubt he kept the original CCA as the MilSpec batteries. That is something to take into consideration.


Anyone know what CCAs and any other information about the original military batteries so that I may a comparison and ultimately determine if THATS my initial problem?
 

gungearz

New member
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The military can afford to be stranded cause help is always on. The way. I use optima red tops in my deuce and now I would never run anything short of 800cca. Just my opinion.
 

Nacademus

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Location
Sheffield Lake, Ohio
The military can afford to be stranded cause help is always on. The way. I use optima red tops in my deuce and now I would never run anything short of 800cca. Just my opinion.
I may just do that. Two Optimas would be about 400 bucks if I'm not mistaken. LOL. That's about 25 percent of what I paid for the truck HA!
 

gungearz

New member
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Its a good investment for a minimum of a 10year guaranteed battery. If the truck font last. At least you know the batteries will. Just a piece of mind. So you font have to worry. People like us that are addicted to MV's love piece of mind cause we can't afford to be stranded. Were always broke dumping money into our rigs...lol
 

gungearz

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You bet it does..... When tow truck drivers see our toys. They see $$$$ and try to get it. I know a guy that bought a 5 ton at GL, paid $1475 and he already has got over $8000 into it. Its just the way it works. I lost track on how much I put into my deuce.
 

wallew

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Several things come to mind

Are the two bolts being used to HOLD the starter in place GM? If not, replace them with GM parts. The original bolts 'stretch' just a little when torqued down. They cost about $5 each last time I bought several two years ago.

Is the FLEX PLATE cracked. About the only real way to check this is to remove the tranny, remove the flex plate and twist it SLIGHTLY in your hands. Trust me when I tell you that if it IS cracked, the symptoms that you describe can happen. Mine had three cracks in it and what a pain in the #*#&*

Last, I use the INTERSTATE BATTERIES the military uses for the CUCV's and lots of other vehicles as well. At $125 each, not cheap, but will definitely spin it up. And they can be used for years. They are 6TL's. At about eighty lbs a piece, they are NOT easy to put in place. But they do work very well.
 

Barrman

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This has been written many times on here and it seems a repeat is needed. The -20 troubleshooting section states at the very beginning to load test both batteries before doing anything else. If you haven't done that, then you are just working in circles. Make sure you actually load test them, not just check for voltage.
 

Nacademus

Member
63
0
6
Location
Sheffield Lake, Ohio
This has been written many times on here and it seems a repeat is needed. The -20 troubleshooting section states at the very beginning to load test both batteries before doing anything else. If you haven't done that, then you are just working in circles. Make sure you actually load test them, not just check for voltage.
How does one do this without a load tester?

Measure the battery voltage's surface charge.
Turn on the high beams? Then measure where the voltage dropped to after a period of time?

Thanks for your help!
Sorry that it needs repeated.
 

Barrman

Well-known member
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You do need a load tester. Most places that sell batteries will test them for you. Or, you can guy one at Harbor Freight for pretty cheap.
 

gungearz

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Guys, your forgetting the multimeter load test. It requires 2 people. 1 holding the multimeter to the batteries and the other cranking the engine at the same time. Check each battery as they individuals ( one 12v, the other 24v), then check the earth ground on battery 1 to the positive post on battery 2. If your batteries drop below 20 volts as you are cranking it. You have dead cells in hour batteries and need new ones. If it stays abouve 20v. You might be able to get away with checking the water level in them, adding distilled water, and recharging them but still might need to be replaced.
 
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