Starter bolt backed out and fried the starter

[Gamble]

So.... Long story short. Took the truck out for its first long highway run followed by some off road fun. Heard a clunk then a grinding sound. Pulled into a parking area and turned the truck off. While the truck was off a horrible screeching sound came from what I believed was the starter. Mind you the truck was off. Light smoke was coming from under the hood. Opened the hood and saw the smoke was coming from underneath. Smoke began to intensify, grabbed the fire extinguisher looked under the truck and sure enough, smoke was coming from the starter. I went to unhook the batteries but smoke stopped before I did so and so did the Horrible sound. It turns out the starter had dropped down and made contact with the frame and shorted out and fried the starter. My assumption is that one of the bolts backed out and that heavy ass starter didnt have enough support while off roading to stay snug and tight to the block.

I acquired another starter, installed it, and no vroom. Any ideas as to what I should check next?

Starter Connections:



Thanks in Advance

 

[DREDnot]

I would start with all new cables and renew all connections between the starter and batteries. It may not be the actual problem causing no start, but its the most important roots of the electrical system and one of the first things I do to a new-to-me vehicle. Good batteries and cables.

 

[glcaines]

I'm assuming that you know for a fact that the new starter is a good one? You can take it to a starter shop and have it tested. As suggested above, check/replace the cables, but also check the batteries. I had something similar happen once and one of the batteries burned one of the post connectors through internally. From the outside of the battery everything looked normal.

 

[juanprado]

Do you have the support bracket with a hook?

There is a shunt in between the battery box and starter.
Also blocks in the battery compartment. Check for voltage at all connections.

Might have let out the magic smoke from the PCB and or alternator. Again all wiring needs to be checked as you had a major magic smoke issue.

 

[Gamble]

I'm assuming that you know for a fact that the new starter is a good one? You can take it to a starter shop and have it tested. As suggested above, check/replace the cables, but also check the batteries. I had something similar happen once and one of the batteries burned one of the post connectors through internally. From the outside of the battery everything looked normal.

I took the battery for a bench test and it functioned as expected in the bench. The batteries are all testing good on my multimeter.

 

[Gamble]

Do you have the support bracket with a hook?

There is a shunt in between the battery box and starter.
Also blocks in the battery compartment. Check for voltage at all connections.

Might have let out the magic smoke from the PCB and or alternator. Again all wiring needs to be checked as you had a major magic smoke issue.

Yes, I have the support bracket with the hook. The batteries are good. I don't seem to have voltage under the truck needed to power the starter Solenoid.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

Yes, I have the support bracket with the hook. The batteries are good. I don't seem to have voltage under the truck needed to power the starter Solenoid.

You very well fried other component...the starter can be jumped as long as you have 24v at the pos and neg stud at the starter, jumper across positive to the solenoid connectio.
ive seen many times the start box fry in your same situation.

 

[papakb]

Power runs directly from the batteries to the starter so the first thing you want to do is verify that you have 24 volts between the 2 large studs on the starter. If you do then using a small jumper wire you can connect pins (S) and (T) on the STE-ICE connector . This will actuate the solenoid and run the starter. That signal originates on pin (I) on the engine compartment connector of the control box.

This could be an indication that the control box has failed but before jumping directly into that nightmare I would check for any burnt wiring and make sure that the neutral start switch is good.

 

[Gamble]

You very well fried other component...the starter can be jumped as long as you have 24v at the pos and neg stud at the starter, jumper across positive to the solenoid connectio.
ive seen many times the start box fry in your same situation.

I have power on the large connectors from the battery box which connect to the positive and negative studs on the starter. Shouldnt I have power on the small positive cable which connects to the solenoid? That wire drops down from the front while the negative for the solenoid is in the negative wire bundle from the battery box.

Is this a sign that the smart start box is bad? What is the likelihood that that thin positive wire somehow got burnt out?

 

[Gamble]

Power runs directly from the batteries to the starter so the first thing you want to do is verify that you have 24 volts between the 2 large studs on the starter. If you do then using a small jumper wire you can connect pins (S) and (T) on the STE-ICE connector . This will actuate the solenoid and run the starter. That signal originates on pin (I) on the engine compartment connector of the control box.

This could be an indication that the control box has failed but before jumping directly into that nightmare I would check for any burnt wiring and make sure that the neutral start switch is good.

I found that I have power on the main studs of the wires from the battery box that connect to the starter. I have the 4 speed tyranny with Park. I don't start in neutral. Is there another switch, relay, or fuse I should be checking?

 

[Action]

If you have power and good ground at the big starter connections, do as RWH and papakb suggested, and jump the solenoid. I would turn switch on and wait for wait light to go out, then jump it.
same thing like when you start an air cooled vw with a screwdriver or hanger.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

There is no voltage on the small solenoid lead...not until you attempt to start truck and even than on,y as long as the ignition is in start position. This is how all starters work...
You need to work backwards from your starter and start checking and testing wires, the small solenoid wire is part of the engine harness, it passes through the start box, making its way to the start switch via the body harness.
disconnect the batteries and start by removing the cannon plugs and checking for burnt wires or pins.
perform continuity tests on wire, check body harness connector.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

And lastly....is the new starter even any good?

 

[Gamble]

If you have power and good ground at the big starter connections, do as RWH and papakb suggested, and jump the solenoid. I would turn switch on and wait for wait light to go out, then jump it.
same thing like when you start an air cooled vw with a screwdriver or hanger.

So what gauge wire? Sounds a little dangerous to get down there and try to bridge 24v with however many amps to a tiny solenoid post at 45 degrees away from me adjacent to the frame.

I assume this is from the large positive post to the starter solenoid correct? What position should the start switch be in when I jump start the starter?

 

[Gamble]

And lastly....is the new starter even any good?

It tested good at the starter bench

 

[Action]

So what gauge wire? Sounds a little dangerous to get down there and try to bridge 24v with however many amps to a tiny solenoid post at 45 degrees away from me adjacent to the frame.

I assume this is from the large positive post to the starter solenoid correct? What position should the start switch be in when I jump start the starter?

scroll back up and read post #8

 

[Gamble]

scroll back up and read post #8

Ok, I'll give that a shot as well. I'm unfamiliar as to where I can find the STE-ICE connector. I'll research it.

 

[Action]

Ok, I'll give that a shot as well. I'm unfamiliar as to where I can find the STE-ICE connector. I'll research it.

it is the big cap next to the shifter.

 

[papakb]

Delete this post.

 

[papakb]

The STE-ICE connector is under the large round cover to the left of the shifter.

With the ignition switch OFF , by momentarily shorting pins (S) and (T) together it will spin up the starter if it's good but the truck won't start. This completely bypasses the control box so if the starter spins your problem is somewhere between the iginition switch and the starter solenoid.