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starter question

BigDuck

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i started my M1009 this morning and the starter stayed engaged!! i popped the hood and got the batteries unhooked but before i got the second one off the dimond shaped wiring harness block on the fire wall started to smoke! i crawled under and tapped on the starter and wiggled all the wires i thought may need wiggling, and after touching the battery terminals a few times and the starter still getting power a lil more tapping and about 45 mins of head scratchin i touched the terminals to the battery and it didnt try to turn over, so i reconnected every thing and climbed in and started it back up three times in a row and the starter acted right:?::?: Has anyone ever experinced this with their m1009?
 

Warthog

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Have you never read about all the issues with the starter and the problem with the starter relay under the dash?

I guess you didn't vote in this pole.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/70846-poll-who-has-done-dodhead-relay-conversion.html

Doghead has come up with a solution and we all call it the "Doghead Relay" conversion. There is even a sticky in the CUCV forum.

You will more than likely find a few fusable links has burned and things won't be working.
 
Last edited:

ralbelt

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You should consider replacing the starter relay under the dash. Search out the "Doghead starter relay modification". It should be a sticky in the cucv forum.
 

doghead

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Are your wire ring terminals touching eachother at the solenoid?

Do you have a handheld digital meter and know how to use it?
 

doghead

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Your looking for the source of voltage that is making your starter crank. It could be 12v at the relay(energizing it) or it could be 24v getting to the solenoid.

What brand and part number relay did you install?

Does your key operate easily and smoothly?


I would measure the 4 terminals on the under dash relay. One small one should be ground, and the other small one should be 12+ when the key is in the start position only. The other 2 bigger studs, one should be 24v+ and the other should have nothing until the key is in the start position(then it should be 24v+).

If you have 12v+ at the small terminal without the key in the start position, your column ignition switch is bad.

If you have 24v+ at both bigger terminals all the time, you have bad relay or a shorted wire at the starter.

Since you say it is not malfunctioning now, you can't find the problem without it acting up again.
 
Last edited:

BigDuck

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thank you so much for you insite Doghead it is very much appreciated, i will check those voltages if it does it again, i may stop and get another relay at napa just to have incase the one i put on is going bad.
 

doghead

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To my knowledge, nobody that has done the relay mod, has ever had an issue.
 

TSgt.Kuchta

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If you purchased and are using the relay specified in the "Doghead Relay Mod." the relay is most likely fine if it's brand new......(just my $.02).

I have had similar starter issues since I purchased my M1009 two months ago.

I have done the Doghead relay mod. As well as replaced my headlight, windshield-wiper, turn-signal, headlight-dimmer AND ignition switches!

My truck only has 39,000 miles on it, but these are all old vehicles from the mid-1980's.
That is pretty old and as such old things need to be checked and repaired.

My truck is in pretty good shape and doesn't seem as old as it is. For a comparison, look at what a mid-1980's hair band rocker looks like these days!

Point is, lots of old wiring and dirty ground connections with these trucks.

Steve
 

doghead

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For a comparison, look at what a mid-1980's hair band rocker looks like these days!
Thats funny, and I CAN relate to that...
 

BigDuck

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Scott, thanks for the reply, this is the second starter that has done this, in June I had one put on and i got two days out of it and i called the shop that put it on and they replaced it with a different brand , now I know I have bad luck but DANG!!!
 
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