Starter relay got stuck

[84cucv1ton]

Finally got in Napa. Couldn't remember if it was 14gauge or 12gauge fusible link I needed. So I bought both. The 12gauge blue eight dollars for 10 feet.
Here are a few pictures. The other day when I was at work my father had his mechanic friend stop over and take a look at the truck. They crimped in that little piece of wire that you see. Doesn't say anything on it about being a fusible link. I'm not to sure having a civilian mechanic working on these trucks is a good idea. Anyway where that red piece was Spliced into The blue wire I need to cut that out and replace it with fusible link. To the left You see the one wire.I believe that is a fusible link as well. I don't think it blew but insulation did come off. From being old I suppose. I can replace it with the blue fusible link wire. My question is though do I need to keep the black circular part Or do I cut that out as well? As always thanks a lot guys have a good Sunday. Very cold Sunday

 

[84cucv1ton]

just put the relay in. hit the key just to see if the starter was getting power. starter kept going again. pulled all the battery cables off real fast. i left them lose. dammit

 

[Warthog]

Read the Fusie link 10- sticky. It explains the round platic cover, what the wire should say, etc.

 

[84cucv1ton]

OK took a look thanks. that wire is there is not a fusible link.

hope i can put this here. if anyone has a starter to sell. send me a pm

 

[84cucv1ton]

found some good information here as well:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?70281-M1008-Meltdown

 

[cucvrus]

Take your bad starter to the re builder and have it rebuilt. It cost about $100-125. to have it completely gone over. And they hold up well. I changed 1 in eight years of use on my M1009 and the others are pushing 10 years. I had 4 new starters that were in the original boxes. I found them in an M1010 that was in a barn. That truck was loaded with parts. All new. That guy had big plans but never done anything with the plan. If you need an address for a good guy to have it rebuilt at PM me.

 

[84cucv1ton]

sent you a pm

 

[MilChevyguy]

Hey 84cucv1ton.....any luck fixing your problem?

I was following this thread with hope!!
Just had my M1010 go into no start last week....no burnt FL's, no blown fuses....but I turn key and nothing.....

Tried the starter relay (not the DH mod, original MIC relay) jumper from red to purple...but only got sparks....no turnover or solenoid click either.

I thought when the relay sticks it runs on the starter and burns the FL's on the starter power lines, not the GP relay....what do I know!?!?

Not sure why I cant bypass jumper my starter relay either....it figures its an M1010....all the wire diagrams posted seem to say 'except M1010'

 

[cucvrus]

I am going to take a shot in the dark at this. OK are you sure it is just simply that the starter is bad? It is worth a try. I had them do this in the past. And I do not have any electrical relay mods on any of my CUCV's owned or serviced.

 

[eme411]

are you getting any click from the starter solenoid , and what shape are your batteries in , with the temps we've had here the past week things tend to fail, do you have a block heater, is your 1010 ex CF or US ? My 1008 did the same things a few years back when both batteries failed at the same time, your batteries may be frozen, also check the connections on the starter and the batteries, if your driving in TO with all the salt and brine on the road that will cause a lot of problems also,

 

[MilChevyguy]

cucvrus.....I put in this starter when the original failed last year....it wasnt new but worked for a year...I guess that is a possiblity that its gone bad too, I guess a bench test is in my future.

eme411....its a Canadian truck and parked indoors/heated shop for past 6months, both batteries are fully charged, one at 880cca and 1000cca AGM's. Truck hasnt been driven in winter for a few years now but rust is always
a possibility on the connections I guess.

My only other idea was to do a direct jump of power to the starter solenoid (bendix?) while still in the truck and see if it turns over.....NOW is that 12v or 24v needed to activate it?.....got to dig up an M1010 copy for myself.

 

[cucvrus]

.NOW is that 12v or 24v needed to activate I am going to take a shot at it. I think it is 24 volt. Because that is what voltage runs thru the starter relay under the dash. Is that a mark Body on the back of that truck?

 

[eme411]

is the starter you installed the large OE or a permanent magnet starter , stay away from the cheap Chinese stuff , you get what you pay for, if your starter is stock it will be 24 v

 

[Bunkerbuilder]

Ive owned several cucv,s fresh from a depot overhaul that had the direct drive starter .

but also some that had a gear reduction starter, but Ive never seen a 28mt starter that was a permanent magnet design, IE: they all have field coils.

is the starter you installed the large OE or a permanent magnet starter , stay away from the cheap Chinese stuff , you get what you pay for, if your starter is stock it will be 24 v