Starter to bracket mounting question

[Gunfighter1]

What am i missing here? There looks like a gap of about 1/2 inch between the starter and the bracket. Can i just take out that top bolt and put a longer stud in there? I just had the starter rebuilt its the original direct drive 24v and the bracket was never hooked up since ive had the truck and dont want to run into any issues with breaking bolts. Ive been lucky so far without it.

 

[firefox]

I'm not sure what the problem is since I now have the gear reduction starter,
but make darn sure you pursue this until you get it bolted up on that support.
There are a ton of horror stories about those that decided to forget about it.

 

[cpf240]

I have not compared the two while actually installed, but could it be that the bracket is for the gear reduction starter, and not the one for the direct-drive?

 

[Gunfighter1]

I have not compared the two while actually installed, but could it be that the bracket is for the gear reduction starter, and not the one for the direct-drive?

Ill crawl under and check in the daylight. I have a bracket for the direct drive starter sitting in the garage. It was never hooked up since ive had the truck and it still had the original direct drive starter on it so would think its all original. Would it hurt anything if i just took off that top bolt on the front of the starter and put a longer one in there and spaced it with nuts to stay tight or will it mess up anything inside the starter if i take it off?

 

[timarr]

The through bolts are just 1/4 - 20 and if I get a starter without a stud for the bracket I remove. thread rod in leave a 1 1/4 sticking out, put on lock washer and nut , then bracket , lock washer and nut. works fine!

 

[cucvrus]

I think my observation is you must get a 13mm socket (prefer swivel) and get up and loosen the M8 bolt at the block end of the bracket. Turn the bracket front more so it fits on the starter stud and put a 1/4" washer and nut on the stud and then tighten the nut on the starter and re-tighten the M8 bolt in the block. I think that is all that is out of order from the picture when I look at it. Keep us in the loop.

timarr did you ever get that diode under the dash? I found one loose if you need it.

 

[Gunfighter1]

I got some 1/4-20 in all thread im going to cut down and make a new top bolt for the starter to go thru the bracket. Looks like the old bolt had broken off where it went into the bracket. Seems like it could be a common problem supporting a heavy clunky starter on a small bolt.

 

[cucvrus]

That small bolt is really not what is holding the starter up there. The 2 front M10 bolts hold it up just fine. It is just serving as a support area to add stability to the starter when it engages the ring gear. It prevents the twist to the starter. I would opt to replace the upper thru bolt with the studded bolt and not use an all thread rod. Most all thread rod is simple unrated ungraded rod. You are guessing at the length of the thru bolt with stud and putting all the pressure on the entire length of the thru bolt. Where with the thru bolt you have the thru bolt torqued and at the correct length to the starter and the nut on the stud torqued to the starter support bracket. They will serve as 2 different supports. Do as you wish. The cost of the ring gear and the hassle to change it is not worth the cost of the correct bolt/parts for the starter. Do it right the first time or do it over. Just trying to help you out.

 

[welpro222]

cucvrus has it spot on. I was thinking you might have had the newer gear reduction bracket, but you appear to have the right one for that starter. Just make sure your starter mounting surface to block is clean, torque starter bolts, and then install bracket in this order.

 

[Gunfighter1]

That small bolt is really not what is holding the starter up there. The 2 front M10 bolts hold it up just fine. It is just serving as a support area to add stability to the starter when it engages the ring gear. It prevents the twist to the starter. I would opt to replace the upper thru bolt with the studded bolt and not use an all thread rod. Most all thread rod is simple unrated ungraded rod. You are guessing at the length of the thru bolt with stud and putting all the pressure on the entire length of the thru bolt. Where with the thru bolt you have the thru bolt torqued and at the correct length to the starter and the nut on the stud torqued to the starter support bracket. They will serve as 2 different supports. Do as you wish. The cost of the ring gear and the hassle to change it is not worth the cost of the correct bolt/parts for the starter. Do it right the first time or do it over. Just trying to help you out.

Appreciate the input, ill go check the hardware store for something thatll work but couldnt find any studded bolts like that. Is there a part number for it by any chance?

 

[Warthog]

. Is there a part number for it by any chance?

As a matter of fact there is. The TM 9-2320-289-34P parts manual has it. Figure 40, item# 36

Found one on fleabay. I would think any starter shop would have one or could get it

You can search the part number on this site for what other have said about it.

GM 1975326

 

[cucvrus]

I can get you one of them thru bolts. Let me know. I have access to starter parts.

 

[Gunfighter1]

That bolt in the picture doesnt look like it extends past the starter at all to catch on the bracket.

 

[cucvrus]

It does. Let me know I can pull one out of a new starter for you to get you back on the road. I will check what the starter shop gets for the bolt tomorrow.