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STARTER WOES

devilman96

New member
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0
Location
Boca Raton, FL
Its easy... just use tape to mark your depths on the drill bit.

I seriously think I would just try a new starter first if the bolts are grabbing...
 
Ah heck, just JB weld that starter in there. Glob it all over, every where the starter touches the engine, then brace it in place until it dry's. Once it's dry, mix about 100 tubes of the stuff, get a putty trowel, and really epoxy it in place. JB fixes everything, except marriages.:-D
 

beaubeau

New member
622
2
0
Location
Salisbury,N.H. 03268
Has anyone noticed how a 6.2 will Kick Back sometimes when trying to start? I think this is what causes the bolts to Break. I got a truck where the Corner Ear broke off the Block. I was able to repair it and ran it a few years. There is Lots of Tourque in these starters . I think Timing on the motor may be a factor on some of these vehicles.
 

jaytee

New member
46
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0
Location
Maryland
yeah kickback could definitely be a problem

if only they had a compression release like my old thumper 600 cc dirt bike, that was the only way to get that thing started
 

jaytee

New member
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0
Location
Maryland
Has anyone noticed how a 6.2 will Kick Back sometimes when trying to start? I think this is what causes the bolts to Break. I got a truck where the Corner Ear broke off the Block. I was able to repair it and ran it a few years. There is Lots of Tourque in these starters . I think Timing on the motor may be a factor on some of these vehicles.
Did you use JB weld to repair it?
 

beaubeau

New member
622
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Location
Salisbury,N.H. 03268
Jaytee. actually when I repaired the Bad Block, I had Welded the Tail of the Starter to the Dust cover over the Tourque converter. Aluminum, To aluminum. I later had to Change the starter, so I just had to remove the Dust Cover with the starter, No Problem!! I just used the Tail on the New starter and repllced it all.Better than changing the engine!!
 

jaytee

New member
46
0
0
Location
Maryland
ok so I finished the bolt repair, all was great, I took it for a couple of drives, no problems.....but today, I had just shut it off, then went to re-start so I could pull it into the garage, and.........crank, crank, crank, no start.

It should have started without glow plugs because I had just shut it off, but it didn't, so I cycled the plugs (manual conversion), still no dice. I went up front and opened the bleed valve on the top of the fuel block really quick, fuel squirted out, so I turned the ignition on, disconnected the fuel solenoid wire, it clicked, so I plugged it back in, tried cranking it again, no dice. It was getting dark so I stopped troubleshooting there.

Is my injection pump shot? My truck was sitting for a while with all of the problems, including in cold weather, but I put some of HEET and some power service in there while it was sitting, just in case, so the fuel should have been fine. Any ideas? I only have a half day tomorrow to troubleshoot it some more, so any suggestions would be greatly appreciated thanks
 

dependable

Well-known member
1,720
188
63
Location
Tisbury, Massachusetts
It could be the ip. in my experiance they do not fail without warning, ie lack of acceleration or air in fuel symtoms , or leakage. You were right to check fuel pressure and ip solinoid. I would check glow plugs because it is so easy, and mabey they got fried, even though you figure the engine is warm. I guess you could make sure there is no water in fuel. There is a secondary fuel filter under the intake manifold. I doubt it is the problem, but if you suspect your fuel supply you should replace both filters. You may not need to, but if you replace secondary fuel filter you can by unbolting vacuum diapham from vacuum pump to get at filter. you do not need to remove vacuum drive, which is a bitch to get back in. It is hard to help over the computer, . I understand your frustration. Good luck.
 

jaytee

New member
46
0
0
Location
Maryland
It could be the ip. in my experiance they do not fail without warning, ie lack of acceleration or air in fuel symtoms , or leakage. You were right to check fuel pressure and ip solinoid. I would check glow plugs because it is so easy, and mabey they got fried, even though you figure the engine is warm. I guess you could make sure there is no water in fuel. There is a secondary fuel filter under the intake manifold. I doubt it is the problem, but if you suspect your fuel supply you should replace both filters. You may not need to, but if you replace secondary fuel filter you can by unbolting vacuum diapham from vacuum pump to get at filter. you do not need to remove vacuum drive, which is a bitch to get back in. It is hard to help over the computer, . I understand your frustration. Good luck.
Got a part number for the secondary filter? I have a spare Stanadyne for the main filter, so I will swap that out.

I have no smoke whatsoever coming out of the pipes (this truck has never smoked since I bought it), so I think it is a fuel problem. It seems to me that if it were getting fuel through the pump and injectors into the cylinder, but wasn't igniting, then it would have some white smoke from the excess fuel trying to burn.

I will check the glow plugs too, much thanks for the heads up, I didnt know about the other fuel filter
 

dependable

Well-known member
1,720
188
63
Location
Tisbury, Massachusetts
I apologize for the wrong info I posted. I just checked the 1028 I am currently wonking on and it does not have the secondary filter. My first three 6.2 s were older civy rigs that had this filter. Sorry about that. Hope its the glow plugs, and if you have'nt done so replace fuel filter and see if you have the old type filter base or the replacement. If the fuel pressure sensor is visable when you take off filter( it is the size of a quarter and has two wires attached) you have the old type. they can leak air in and make the truck hard to start. The best place to get a new filter base ( with filter) is oem surplus.com they have a few military filter bases left for only $50.
 
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