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Starting a deuce??

commandojd

Member
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Location
Deshler OH
This may be a stupid question, but what does it mean when you have to hold the gas pedal down a tiny bit to start the truck? Every time I try to start it, it wont run unless I hold the pedal down a bit...and I have to hold it for a good 30 seconds until it will run by itself. Is this normal? I have all new fuel filters and had my tank removed, professionally cleaned/ coated and re installed with new fuel. When I got the truck it had some orange fuel in it...if that matters?? I also added a very small amount of injector/ line cleaner in it before replacing the filters. It sounds a LOT better then it originally did...but I still have to hold the petal when starting it. Any help will be appreciated! thanks
 

SCSG-G4

PSVB 3003
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Lexington, South Carolina
You could have a dirty injector in one cylinder, so it's really only running on five and needs a few more RPM's to keep going. Once it warms up, does it run fine at an idle? If so, I would suspect a dirty or 'coked up' injector. I have a truck that has no power till it's been run for half an hour or so and the dirty injector is the trouble. Be sure to check for hydrolock when starting, as a dirty injector will sometimes stick open and fill the cylinder - diesel does not compress!
 

doghead

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Some people have reported that a minor adjustment to the maximum fuel rate stop, has fixed that issue.

You need to be cautious about increasing the max fuel rate, as it will increase the maximum exhaust gas temperature as well.

A first step would be to look and see if your max fuel rate adjustment cover is still sealed with wire or not.
 

doghead

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The cover has 3, 7/16" hex head bolts. It's between the Hydraulic head and the Fuel density compensator.

The three bolt heads should have a wire though them, to show thy have not been tampered with.
 

Recovry4x4

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I have always bumped the idle up on mine to stop the death rattle. Saves headlights too.
 

searls84

Member
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6
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Location
Las Cruces, NM
I have always bumped the idle up on mine to stop the death rattle. Saves headlights too.
Are you talking about the "fuel rate screw" on the front of the FDC? Or is there another non-linkage idle adjustment that I am not aware of? Mine also has that "death rattle" when first started, and would love to get rid of it..
 

muthkw25

Well-known member
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Location
Sayre, PA
This may be a stupid question, but what does it mean when you have to hold the gas pedal down a tiny bit to start the truck? Every time I try to start it, it wont run unless I hold the pedal down a bit...and I have to hold it for a good 30 seconds until it will run by itself. Is this normal? I have all new fuel filters and had my tank removed, professionally cleaned/ coated and re installed with new fuel. When I got the truck it had some orange fuel in it...if that matters?? I also added a very small amount of injector/ line cleaner in it before replacing the filters. It sounds a LOT better then it originally did...but I still have to hold the petal when starting it. Any help will be appreciated! thanks

Mine is a similar situation. I use the accelerator to start the deuce, like the TM's say, but after it turns over, if I take my foot off of the gas, it will slowly drop the rpms and stall out. After a couple minutes of warming up, the truck then will idle between 800-900 rpms. I don't know if Idling screw will make a difference other than bump it up more. It does well after the first couple minutes. Other than a dirty injector, Does anyone else have an idea?
 

Dipstick

Well-known member
1,101
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Location
Effort PA
I usually pull the hand throttle out about four clicks just before starting. My engine starts right up and goes to about 1,000 rpm with the hand throttle in that position. I let the engine run for a minute or two at that rpm and then I push the hand throttle in. After that it idles really well. If you have even one bad injector you should experience a rougher than normal idle and be noticeably down on power while driving. How does your truck idle and run after it is warmed up?
 

muthkw25

Well-known member
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Sayre, PA
I usually pull the hand throttle out about four clicks just before starting. My engine starts right up and goes to about 1,000 rpm with the hand throttle in that position. I let the engine run for a minute or two at that rpm and then I push the hand throttle in. After that it idles really well. If you have even one bad injector you should experience a rougher than normal idle and be noticeably down on power while driving. How does your truck idle and run after it is warmed up?
The truck runs great. Has lots of power. If I leave the throttle out at 3 clicks, it idles at 1,000 like yours. But the TM says to let the truck idle below 1,000 for 5 minutes to keep from doing damage to the turbo. That's why I wanted it to idle at 800-900 on startup.

After a couple minutes, it will idle between 800 and 900 no problem. Another thing, when it idles. after being warmed up, it has a very slight exhaust you can see at the proper angle. There is no smoke while driving whatsoever.

If I drive it at night, you can see it easier while idling, mostly because of the drop in temperature. If I step on it at idle, it has some exhaust come out, like any diesel. I thought maybe the result is an injector. It seems to run better as I drive it more, maybe its slowly cleaning itself out of all the crap that was in there from before.
 

Dipstick

Well-known member
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Location
Effort PA
Sounds a lot like my Deuce. I also get a tiny amount of smoke when starting or idling. I think that's normal. I believe the TM also recommends a five minute cool down for the turbo prior to shutdown.
 

steelandcanvas

Well-known member
6,187
85
48
Location
Southwestern Idaho
Ditto to a lot of the above. I have to pull my hand throttle out about 3 clicks also, and She'll idle right at 700 to 800 RPMs. I want to do a tune up by the book, that my solve some of my initial start-up issues.
 

Clay James

Member
524
4
18
Location
Reno/NV
Mine does it too. I have to hold the throttle to the floor to start it and hold it slightly or it will die. I usually start it and use the hand throttle to set it at 1050RPM where the sweet spot is for minimal rattle. The wire is still on the IP cover so I don't think it was messed with but I guess I'll pull it and check where it's set. Also replaced all the fuel lines thinking it might have been sucking air. Still starts the same. Once it's warmed up it's fine and starts a little easier.
 

cranetruck

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Meadows of Dan, Virginia
The ease of starting is related to the setting of the "idle" adjustment and engine temperature.

With the automatic transmission in my 8x8, the specified idle for the multifuel is only 600 or so and the TM says to depress the accelerator pedal to start. After the first start (in the morning) and with a warm engine, this is not necessary for starts later (same day). Set throttle for warm-up at about 1,000-1,200 rpm.

The cranking rpm should be about 300 to 400, so make sure the battery and connections are good also...
It's not a deuce, but basically the same engine.
 
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