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starting issues

cptd

New member
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Location
Cibolo, TX
I know that this has been discussed many times before. I have read **** near every post on starting and the possible fixes.

It all started with the clicking. Wouldn't start at all. The starter would begin to turn but was going very slowly.

Did the Doghead. Now NOTHING.

I took the glow plug relay (the one on the firewall) off, to see if I could replace it. That is where the clicking seemed to be coming from.

A friend dropped the starter and measured a solid 24V going to the starter.

I need this thing to get working soon. It is my only vehicle.

Please help. Please provide diagnostics, tips to get it working, wild and crazy ideas to try.

Anything.

Please.

Thanks,

CPTD
 

Warthog

Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
13,774
232
63
Location
OKC, OK
Before you start ANY electrical work have your batteries load tested. Without knowing the condition of them, you are just running around in circles.

We have seen it tooooooooooooooooooooo many times that there is a bad battery.
 

sierrajcharlie

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Location
Farmersburg, Iowa
Is it the new starter relay you hear clicking? It does get your attention. Is there 24 volts in and out of it? You say a solid 24 volts to the starter. Is that on the heavy red wire? Is the solenoid getting the needed voltage to it when you hit the key? If it is getting the voltage, perhaps a bad starter solenoid?
 

wallew

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
San Angelo, Tx USA Planet Earth
I suspect one or two items.

As has been said, the solenoid is MOST LIKELY the culprit

HOWEVER are both starter bolts STILL there? I had the same problem, only to find that BOTH starter bolts had literally fallen out and cause it to come loose. $10 and two starter bolts and the correct starter brace later, all is well again.
 

mistaken1

New member
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Location
Kansas City, KS
Also the cable between the batteries can look fine from the outside but be corroded inside. Voltage measures correctly but when under a load (like starting) too much voltage drops across that cable causing a low voltage condition at the starter and glow plugs.

You have downloaded the manuals and followed the troubleshooting procedure in them already?
 

cptd

New member
30
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0
Location
Cibolo, TX
I can get the starter to think about turning, but only by shorting across the two large posts on the dog head
 
Batteries, Battery cables, Battery clamps, grounds and connections at the buss bars. I really like to replace the cables w/ a heavier gauge, and use crimp on lugs that I also solder. I also buy the military battery clamps sold on the eebbaayy. I also use new star washers at the buss bars and grounds along w/ dielectric grease.

It sounds like weak batteries or bad connections.
 
Last edited:

Matt65

New member
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Location
Alabama
Also the cable between the batteries can look fine from the outside but be corroded inside. Voltage measures correctly but when under a load (like starting) too much voltage drops across that cable causing a low voltage condition at the starter and glow plugs.
Happened to mine, definitely worth checking. I have the TM link in my signature.
 

edpdx

Active member
795
75
28
Location
Oregon
Use battery cables to supply juice directly to the starter- with starter mounted to simulate load. If you are having the same problem, then look at the grounding strap between the engine block and firewall. Add a 10g wire from the starter bolt that holds the starter support bracket and the frame. If you are still having problems, then it is likely the starter. No problems meant it was the ground and/or the battery cable or the purple "exciter" wire from the battery to the starter relay. My purple wire was very nasty at the firewall pass-through box.
 
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